Builds Rebuilding a 40 but no longer in a 1 car garage. (2 Viewers)

[waiting for time]

Thanks Danny, nights are the worst. Just waiting for the docters to give me an answer first.

 

[mrboatman]

Dam now that really sucks! We`ll keep you in our payers Michael. Hang in there they will get it figured out
JP

 

[waiting for time]

Dam now that really sucks! We`ll keep you in our payers Michael. Hang in there they will get it figured out
JP

Thanks

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Hope you get some relief soon. Acupuncture did wonders for a friend. Look into it as an option if you can.

 

[waiting for time]

Thanks, just waiting for the next results on Thursday and some more tests in 2 weeks. Hope to know more after that.

 

[waiting for time]

Now some pic of door number 2.

Cut out all the bad parts and prepped the smaller patches and welded them in place.

 

[waiting for time]

Tried to stick to the original size of the door.

And the original shape.

Outside skin mocked up

 

[waiting for time]

Trying to cut the shape as even as possible.

Partially welded

Mocking up the inside

 

[waiting for time]

Prepping the inside of the door.

 

[waiting for time]

Fixing the inside.

 

[waiting for time]

And the final results left and right.

 

[mrboatman]

Once again very nice work !!
JP

 

[waiting for time]

Started with the frame.

Front off.

 

[waiting for time]

Started with removing the springs from the front Axel last week. At the 4th bolt my 6 month old air wrench broke.
Brought it back and got me a bigger one.

It took 2minutes to undo the other 5 bolts, didn’t even have to lube them.

 

[waiting for time]

As my shoulder is slowly getting better I continued with stripping the frame and building the jig for the tub rebuild.
After reviewing my options on connecting the body to the jig I decided that m12 was a bit weak for height adjustment.
Found a tap & die set that included fine coarse m24.

Cut some 25mm shaft, turned it down to just below 24 and run some threads. Next I cut some tube wit 22mm inner hole opened it up to 22,5 and run the tap about 50mm throug it. Run the tap about 20mm through the other side too.

On one side, the non treaded side, I drilled an tapped a 12mm thread and on the other a 10mm thread.
Cut about 20mm from the threaded, 10mm side, cleaned it up and turned it in the 20mm side of the tube.

The other part is going in the opposite, bottom, side.

M12 will be mounted on the jig and M10 on the tub.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Inspiring work as always Michael. I am glad your should is getting better. Good to see you at it again!!!

 

[waiting for time]

First one was a test piece next is finding the right lengths and such.

Turning down to correct diamiter.

After threading and cutting the to part clocking it again in the lathe.

Tapping the bottom hole M12

And tapping the tube for the adjusting bottom section. It is tough to tap this.

 

[waiting for time]

This is what it will be used for

 

[waiting for time]

Front springs came off the frame easy but the rear were not moving at all.
I didn’t want the smell of rubber in the shop for several weeks so I decided to try something different.
Used a 2 legged puller to push the pins out of the bushings and it worked like a charm.

The only issue I had was that the puller did not fit on the spring side of the hanger, I had to loosen the U-bolts so the whole spring could move sideways.

There was no movement at all before I used the puller and it came out within 10 minutes without any drama.

 

[waiting for time]

Next step is taking out the rivits.

Not the easiest job but we like a challenge.

It would be so nice to clean this part of the shop and get rid of the gunk inside the frame. Only work with clean parts.