Rebuild 2f or replace with better 2f (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 11, 2008
Threads
6
Messages
15
Location
Colorado Springs
I bought a 40 from a friend and it had been sitting for several years. I towed it to a great cruiser shop shop to help me get it back on the road. Despite having only 106k miles on the 2f, cylinder 4 is shot. Below are the compression numbers, a wet test did not bring it up.

1 - 120
2 - 120
3 - 120
4 - 50
5 - 120
6 130

They would prefer to swap with a better low mileage 2f than rebuild, and said it would likely be cheaper. My question is there any advantage to rebuilding the original and keeping everything original and matching. The truck is nearly 100% original. Or should I just swap in a 130+ compression 2f and not look back?

My goal is not a frame off resto, just a reliable truck for many years.
 
Did you get it running?

I think I'd atleast run it for an hour or two, check the valve clearances, and then do a compression check. Wouldn't a stuck open valve also give you low readings?
 
It runs but doesn't idle, so it has definatley been run around the block several times. The shop suspects the valve however they said it is better to do a full rebuild rather than just the head. But, they would rather swap in a know good/low mileage 2f. Let me know what you think.
 
Rebuilding what you have is really the best bet, as it would keep the truck all parts matching (if that is important to you) and you would know the history of the motor as you would be breaking it in. You wouldn't have any suprises 10k miles down the road (such as needing to do a valve job). And you would have a good engine for a good long time.

However.

Parts for older 2F's seem to be getting harder to come by. There was a thread recently about someone having difficulty finding oversized domed pistons from any source. It seems that the domestic suppliers are backordered and waiting for these parts to be made by their overseas suppliers.

If you need the truck back on the road RIGHT AWAY, putting in the known used 2F is going to be your better option in the immediate future. That way you have a running truck and you can source the parts necessary to rebuild the engine.

Hope this helps.
 
rebuild ...I did mine new rings ,bearings, cam shaft ,cam drive pinion, carby,line bored and reconditioned the head, rebuilt the dizzy for about $2800 AUS...plus it good rewarding fun to see it all back together and purring
 
It all depends on your budget. No question, If you have the money, rebuild it.
 
I bought a 40 from a friend and it had been sitting for several years. .... Despite having only 106k miles on the 2f, cylinder 4 is shot. ...

Did they at least do a valve adjustment before before condemning a low miles 2F? It may just have a tight or stuck valve?
 
Tools R Us said:
Did they at least do a valve adjustment before before condemning a low miles 2F? It may just have a tight or stuck valve?
Ditto. I had a reputable land cruiser shop condemn our truck with low compression. It was parked for a decade until a friend rebuilt the carb and tuned it up. I took care of some vacuum leaks and It seems to run well at 70 with the 33s on it. :meh:
 
They have not done a valve adjustment or leakdown test. They have said they are not engine rebuilders. It is currently at the shop a long ways from home. The work is not something i am capable of doing. Would all of you suggest i have them do a carb rebuild and tune up while there, drive it home (hopefully) and look for a shop to rebuild.

The quote for swapping in a "new" 2f is $2500-4000, with the $4k being for a low mileage, 130+ compression, with new clutch, exhaust, etc...

Thanks for everyone's help!!
 
... Would all of you suggest i have them do a carb rebuild and tune up while there, drive it home (hopefully) and look for a shop to rebuild.

A tune up and/or carb rebuild is not going to fix a low compression miss.

... Despite having only 106k miles on the 2f, cylinder 4 is shot. Below are the compression numbers, a wet test did not bring it up.

Indicating a valve problem, when was the last valve adjustment? It is part of normal maintenance on a 2F.

...The quote for swapping in a "new" 2f is $2500-4000, with the $4k being for a low mileage, 130+ compression, with new clutch, exhaust, etc...

Thanks for everyone's help!!

Why would you want to replace the motor, when the problem with yours has not been determined, it could be something simple? Yours is a low miles motor, when talking about original 2F's it would be a very low miles motor.
 
Tools R Us said:
A tune up and/or carb rebuild is not going to fix a low compression miss.

Indicating a valve problem, when was the last valve adjustment? It is part of normal maintenance on a 2F.

Why would you want to replace the motor, when the problem with yours has not been determined, it could be something simple? Yours is a low miles motor, when talking about original 2F's it would be a very low miles motor.

The point was, not everyone can properly perform a compression or leak down test.

In my case, they gave false numbers. Perhaps this shop I doing the same because
1. They want him to spend 4k
2. They aren't inept enough to repair what is truly going on because they don't know the cause.
 
I agree with all the advice above about making sure you know what is really wrong, but....

If you decide you are going to swap in an engine - do it yourself. A used 2F is about $600. I got mine with all the trimmings, clutch and tranny for that much, and a 4 hour drive (round trip). I sold (parted out) my F1.5 for just about that.

Or you could keep the old engine, and rebuild it at your leaiure. See the Big Gay 2F thread - you could make it look like that.

It took me a while, but came out great. I am very happy with the results.

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Get it out of the shop, get it home and start reading and learning. unless you have a pile of cash or like to throw money around , testing and repairs can be done at home

To me the wet test would indicate that your #4 cylinder might not be the problem. stuck or burnt valve would be a good guess.

Pop the valve cover off and check valve clearances and correct movement. a leak down tester can be bought or made very easily

How To Perform A Leak Down Test - YouTube

LAWNMOWER REPAIR: cylinder leakdown test. - YouTube
 
Thanks for all of your replies! Everyone seems to conclude that I need to find the real root of the problem, and if needed, that rebuilding is the right way to go.

Now, if a full rebuild is needed and if I cannot realistcally do it myslef, who can recommend a Colorado shop to do a full rebuild? Can I expect it to be less than $4k?

Thanks again!
 
I'm no engine rebuilder either, but you can buy a 2F engine repair manual, and alot of nice tools, and repair parts (if needed), alot cheaper. Not to mention, experience, knowledge and satisfaction gained while fixing your own stuff.

If you don't care to wrench on your FJ40, then you will pay out the nose for others to do it for you. Especially at a 'Cruiser specialty shop.

I've read about people running Marvel Mystery Oil with the motor oil and in the gas tank and solving a world of problems, even seized motors. What do you have to lose?

Good Luck!
 

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