Rear corners (1 Viewer)

[dieselcruiserhead]

I shoulda posted the link from the other thread on the last time I trimmed out back there, for what its worth

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2606867

 

[jm599]

andre what gauge steel did you use for the pieces.. the lower piece looks almost like 1/8"... very stout.. was this the first pig or the current one?

 

[Gumby]

I shoulda posted the link from the other thread on the last time I trimmed out back there, for what its worth

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2606867

That's the way to do it right there, unless you're going for perfect OEM look, it which case you should just buy used corners or pay someone.

 

[scottryana]

I did something very similiar in my build. Since it isn't running i can't tell you how well it works, but here is a picture for what it is worth.

http://homepage.mac.com/ryanandjessaka/.Pictures/DSC01620.jpg

Ryan.

 

[AZkick-n40]

I personally can't offer any advice, but have spent a bit of time around this website (http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/index.php) and they do some amazing stuff w/ english wheels, planishing hammers, shrinkers, etc.

Also, Eastwood sells an english wheel/planishing hammer combo (http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/...CT&iMainCat=1398&iSubCat=1426&iProductID=1561).

HTH,

Brian

 

[AZkick-n40]

One other thing - Merbesfield had posted in your rebuild post (#72) a pic of his rear corner and said that he may be cannibalizing it for his LV build. It looks like it has some rust, but possibly cleaner than yours. Maybe he'd cut his off for you.

Just a thought...

Brian

 

[LRIwater]

I am in the middle of this as well. The problem with mine is that the PO had already figerglassed the rear corners and fender already. A chunk of glass fell off at the corners probably when the body mount rusted off. Replacing steel is the best way to go, but I don't have much metal to weld to. So, I have bonded and welded in some bracketry to use as a base to fiberglass to.

Also in the pics, you can see that I have replaced the sill with a 2x4 steel tube that I am tying the whole rear body to, and then the 2x4 ties into the frame at the factory rubber mount location.
Ahhh the joys of Eastern Rust!

 

[Trollhole]

Guy guys guys. This is to replace the stock with a stock look.

 

[LRIwater]

Here is the almost final product with a little touch-up left. I know it is not exactly stock... Now, if I could just chase down those electrical problems...

 

[toddslater]

I'll throw my .02 in on how I'd go after this with probably some 18 gauge steel and no english wheel, no fancy angle bender for curves, etc... First the lower quarter from the wheel arch back to the object of your desire is probably gone as well (area of the red line). If so, I'd cut and weld that piece in first. Tack it every inch or so across the top at the good steel first, then push and pound with a rubber mallet (with 18 gauge more pushing than pounding) to get the bottom curve going. Work it from top to bottom, as it begins to take shape start tacking it down the sides (typically your pushing it pretty good as well). Don't worry about the bottom and it's best to have a little extra tail hanging out down at the bottom so you can cut it and grind it to the line you'll eventually need. Once welded up then I would cut and grind that lower edge to faily close to final line at this point. If you have any decent original metal down along the bottom then weld it together. however, I am assuming there won't be anything left so just get it close to the old line.

Next piece is the rear section (in purple). Cut it to size...and hopefully you don't need to go up so high as to get into the compound curve by the reflector. Again, tack it across the top and push/pound it down around the bottom. As it takes shape, tack it to the piece you just welded in and on the other side to the rear channel. Again, it is good to have extra on the bottom so you can cut and grind it to the line you need. At this point it'll be roughed out, but you'll need to put the lip on it for strength and to complete the "stock" look. You are probably looking at three seperate lip pieces. One running up and down by the rear channel, one along the bottom of the rear portion of the quarter, and the final lip from the rear up to the fender arch. These are the yellow lines. To do this, I cut strips of sheet metal ~ 1/2 inch wide and weld them at 90 degree angles to the lower line. After there are welded in, I use a grinder to cut the lip down to ~ 1/4 to match the original lip.

Grind and smooth out your welds then use bondo to float out your work. Well that's my 02 anyway.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

andre what gauge steel did you use for the pieces.. the lower piece looks almost like 1/8"... very stout.. was this the first pig or the current one?

The lower piece was actually 1/4" or maybe 3/16" 2 x 4 for the slider.. Then I used I think 16 gauge for the lower parts and I used something thin like an 18 gauge or maybe even less for the actual rounded corner. Then some bondo, it turned out pretty well actually.. I found out yesterday the old pig is RIP now, the owner pulled the whole drivetrain and is putting it into his FJ62. Sniff sniff

 

[Trollhole]

Hmmm. I wonder if I could cut a section out of a trailer fender. Hmmmm

Well I went and checked out a couple of fenders. Didn't have the profile gauge on hand but they look really close. So I bought one. 19 dollars. Nice steel. I'm going to have to put a little more radius to make the corner but it is definetly a lot better than making them from scratch. Plus it's got 4 corners so I can screw two up and still be good.

 

[n2666s]

Damn!................... Marshall. that is brilliant............great idea and gets me inspired to solve my pigs rear /absent corners.....can you share the source for the trailer fenders with the group?

Lou

 

[Trollhole]

Northern Tool.

 

[Gumby]

Saw some at Farm and Fleet when I was there yesterday.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Blazer quarters

I've been tossing around the idea of using a 70's - 80's Blazer quarter repair panel, it seems to have some of the required bends.

 

[Gumby]

Made the trip out to Farm and Fleet yesterday.

The squared off trailer fenders don't match the curve close enough to make work and the quality of the bend is low.

It would take enough massaging to make right that it wouldn't e worth it.

I might take my little mutilated corner out to the bone yard with me with a cordless sawzall and see what I can match up.