Rattle can color that is close to OEM gray wheel color (1 Viewer)

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Get some maroon Scotchbrite pads and some Dawn dishwashing liquid. Put a little soap on the pad with water and scrub the face of the wheel. This scuffs the surface and degreases. Rinse and let dry thoroughly.

Next wipe with lacquer thinner or brake cleaner if you don't have thinner. This gets all the lint and dust off.

Then lightly mist a coat on. Read the can and see how long to wait before second coat. Wait the prescribed time, then lightly mist a second coat. Wait the prescribed time again and put a really good third coat on making sure you cover completely but not so much as to cause a run.

If you want it factory correct, just paint the face, not the rest.

I am pretty sure the black coating that came on your new wheels is not powder coat. I am pretty sure it is just a real good primer. My wheels were original disc brake wheels but I only had 4 of them. This one was a brand new one when I bought it.
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Good luck.
Excellent step by step Copenhagen1. Thanks for this.
 
Just a dumb question, but I gotta ask, where in the heck are you guys getting stock steelies?? Sure don't want to pay the dealer price, but if I must......

Cheers!
 
Best price I found was from cruiserparts.net. Just got mine about a week ago.

Gracias, I may go that route if the blasting isn't the deal breaker...I can paint them myself pretty easily..
 
Gracias, I may go that route if the blasting isn't the deal breaker...I can paint them myself pretty easily..

I'm assuming you mean 'sand blast' and I would not sand blast new OEM wheels from Toyota. I have read that the black finish that they come in is a high quality primer. I would (and did) just scuff them up so the paint will adhere.
 
It is a high quality primer, that is very durable. Looked like paint to me. Some just run them black.
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I'm assuming you mean 'sand blast' and I would not sand blast new OEM wheels from Toyota. I have read that the black finish that they come in is a high quality primer. I would (and did) just scuff them up so the paint will adhere.
I would only blast the used ones...factory primed and new will only get a shot of color :)

Cheers!
 
I would only blast the used ones...factory primed and new will only get a shot of color :)

Cheers!

Ok cool. I misunderstood your post. I just didn't want to see you make a mistake.

The 4 that are on my '77 I purchased used for, seems like, $25 or $30 a wheel plus shipping. My father in law owns a machine shop so the media blast was free.

When I needed a 5th for a spare, I purchased it new from Toyota.
 
What paint is it you used in this photo?

Cheers!
ANSI 49, it is used all over the place. Most notably, it is a standard electrical switchgear color. You can find it in many forms: aerosol, pint, powder. The photo I posted is powder.

I compared it to my OEM original 1971 40 series wheels, very close match. Last weekend, I compared it to another 40, I believe it was a 76, also a close match. By close, I mean dead on. Much closer than the can from CruiserCorps I bought wasted $22 on, which was much too dark and much too blue. But wheel colors seem to have fluctuated over the years, so maybe there is more than one right answer.

:meh:

Here are cans: http://www.lowes.com/pd_89137-90-214646_0__?productId=3728111
 
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Last pic in daylight
 
tractor supply tractor paint ,i think its called majic and is by far the best paint i ever used
 
Cool! Thanks to all! Now I just need to get the wheels!!! (And then find the tires I want for those size wheels, which is also getting to be a challenge!!)

Cheers!
 
That Rusto Light Machine Gray is too light. The Krylon color below it is pretty damn close.

I agree ...not a bad match at all for $3.83 a can at walmart.
 
Looks dandy to me as well...course on a computer monitor, it is never an exact scienceo_O

Cheers!!
 
The Valspar MF Gray is not a match. Looks good....but too dark.

My truck is a 12/78 build. Same owner since 83 until I bought it last month. Very original, low miles, and unmolested. All 5 rims have 12/78 date codes. I'm 99% sure they are wearing original paint. I removed the hubcaps, cleaned, steel-wooled, and then cleaned/degreased again. After doing this the color matched under the hubcap so I think any color change due to sun fading can be ruled out.

Pictures show one painted (on the truck) and one prepped for paint (w/ the masking tape).

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I blasted my rims, used an acid etching primer (1) coat, then painted the entire wheel gloss black (2) coats with Rust-Oleum High Performance Enamel. I then painted just the face of the wheel with the same paint type only Dark Machine Gray (2) coats. I basically painted the rims one at a time with the first two done one weekend then the next two done throughout the week in the evenings. The first two rims came out great. - see first pic. But on the second two the gray paint wrinkled and checked badly. I thought maybe I re-coated too quickly so I re-blasted the two wheels, went through the same process but waited overnight for each consecutive coat. I only did one wheel at a time. Same result - the first coat of gray wrinkled faster than before. I called Rust-oleum and this was their instruction: Either re-coat within (1) hour or wait 48 hours before re-coating.
The ambient temp was about 65 for the first two rims and about 60 this last rim.
Thinking back to the first two wheels that came out nice....I probably did rush the re-coats so maybe that is the remedy. So back to the blast cabinet. :(
Anyone had this happen to them?

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