There is a pretty big difference. The separation between the bush's on the lower end of the radius arm controls the diff wrap and braking forces. In stock they are close enough to level between these points. If the same separation is turned vertically. Totally different road handling and much less binding. Road handling sucks. That's why most people find the sweet spot between 45 degrees and level. For best road handling and less binding. Mine is a some what same approach but from a new aspect. They aren't just flipped arms.
Radius Arm Flip (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter adventr
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There is a pretty big difference. The separation between the bush's on the lower end of the radius arm controls the diff wrap and braking forces. In stock they are close enough to level between these points. If the same separation is turned vertically. Totally different road handling and much less binding. Road handling sucks. That's why most people find the sweet spot between 45 degrees and level. For best road handling and less binding. Mine is a some what same approach but from a new aspect. They aren't just flipped arms.
A 3 link is somewhat simple and works awesome on a trail rig that sees occasional road use.
The radius arm won't articulate as well but is far more predictable handling wise.
Honestly, articulation beyond a certain degree is overrated. I'll take predictable handling any day.
The radius arm won't articulate as well but is far more predictable handling wise.
Honestly, articulation beyond a certain degree is overrated. I'll take predictable handling any day.
That is the logic behind the superior eng. flex arms. I remember when they came out for the landcruser the bloke who designed them said words to the same effect.
The super flex arms have more binding in the bushes then you might think, and do rely on the weight of the vehicle to make them flex. Many have commented that they aren't all that crash hot for flex when driving up big hills.
But I beleve they were designed more for high speed racing then slow crawling though.
There is some ambiguity in using these 3/4/5 link terms. Probably best to avoid it.
The link to the build thread i posted, that truck has 4 links in total. 1 leading upper arm, 2 leading lower arms and a panhard. The design of it is drastically different to the traditional 'triangulated 4 link' you see in rock crawlers, but not all that different from a '5 link' like the rear of the 80.
may be that's where the confusion comes from.
Thats the difference between young guys and the more experienced crew. Drivability is a absolute must. So to try and get as much travel as possible before it starts to affect driveablity. Thats what Ive acheived with certain mods and deflection angles incorperated into the flip.
Its hard though as Im still unable to max out the front. Even with no shocks, the rear will lift before the front due to weight distribution. If the travel was too much. Id redo it again until I find the point of binding and travel Im happy with. This would again gain better handling. Which was my plan. But I honestly cant fault it as it is. The drivavbility is mostly gauged by myself and a few others involved. The travel can easily be seen and measured.
But for other people going from fairly stock 80's. They say its better handling than theirs. Thats not just a few. I had to jump back in a stock 1 just to remember what it was like. I preffer mine aswell. But the concensis is that its very hard to compare the 2. Even though the geometry is as close back to stock as you can get. The longer coils new deflection (directions of force the arms take during impact) angles. Larger tyres. Its still unmeasurable. So it just comes down to feel and personal choice. With all but 1 choosing this set up. And I think it was just the lift height he wasnt comofortable with, not the actual handling.
ElPolloBlanco
SILVER Star
This may have been answered already but what's the minimum amount of lift you would need for this? I have a 1.5 inch body lift (not that it really matters for this modification) but I was looking at an Iron Man 4 inch with a 1 inch spacer for 5 total and try to run 37's (that's were I think the 1.5" body will come into play). Would that be doable? I'm still a ways out on all of that stuff but I like to plan ahead.
- Thread starter
- #188
Just an update, finally went in to have my alignment checked. Here is the sheet:
Not sure why the camber is off. Maybe it's time for some new trunion bearings?
Not sure why the camber is off. Maybe it's time for some new trunion bearings?
Just an update, finally went in to have my alignment checked. Here is the sheet:
Not sure why the camber is off. Maybe it's time for some new trunion bearings?
The shim plate that goes on top of the top bearing actually controls the camber. Honestly though for .2 degrees I wouldn't mess with it. If you're interested in trying to get it adjusted, here are the part #s and measurements.
43236-60020 0.10mm $0.74 ea
43233-60030 0.20mm $1.73 ea
43234-60020 0.50mm $2.24 ea
43235-60020 1.00mm $3.30 ea
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
did you play with different shims and increments related to 'em ..?
everything travels together, fix your caster.
- Thread starter
- #194
It drives good with those numbers. Steering is tight, and the wheel returns to center immediately when you let go.
It's not worth messing with to get a degree or two of caster out of it. I just wanted to get the alignment checked to see where everything's at.
Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
It's not worth messing with to get a degree or two of caster out of it. I just wanted to get the alignment checked to see where everything's at.
Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
Judging by that photo it looks like you went ahead and did an IFS conversion while you were at it.
SoCal FZJ80
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Radius Arm Flip Conversion
We are working on the radius flip right now for one of our rigs and will jig the setup
for repeatability. Panhard relocation will be included in the process as well. I will update when we have it ready to go.
We are working on the radius flip right now for one of our rigs and will jig the setup
for repeatability. Panhard relocation will be included in the process as well. I will update when we have it ready to go.
We are working on the radius flip right now for one of our rigs and will jig the setup
for repeatability. Panhard relocation will be included in the process as well. I will update when we have it ready to go.
Will you also be relocating the drag link to match the panhard
If so can you share your plans?I'm just about to do a run of flipped arm housings down here. Complete with re routed brake lines and high steer. Laminated and diff gaurd optional.
@so cal. Are you going to do before and after comparisons? Ie. remove shocks and sway bar. Measure until binding accures. Then redo with flipped and high steer? Also drivability and feed back.
@so cal. Are you going to do before and after comparisons? Ie. remove shocks and sway bar. Measure until binding accures. Then redo with flipped and high steer? Also drivability and feed back.
Last edited:
We are working on the radius flip right now for one of our rigs and will jig the setup
for repeatability. Panhard relocation will be included in the process as well. I will update when we have it ready to go.
Bringin this back up. SoCal fzj80; have you completed this yet?
