Radius Arm Flip
- Thread starter adventr
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15 x 10 wheels, 35" KM2's
5" flexi coils (suspension stuff) - aus
14" fox shocks front
12" fox shocks rear - It max's out both shocks.
Extended breathers, brake lines, bump stops etc etc
Thanks mate. Drives almost as good as (some would say better) than stock.
that is some series flex!
Very impressive dude.
Wanna do mine ? ill bring alot of drinks ?
You'll have to rework your shocks and alot of components though mate. Its maxing out 14" on the front. Im going to have to start doing them I think. Lots of offers. Might make a drive in, drive out price for the complete tuned set up. Bump stops, coils, shocks, panhards, reworked brake lines. The lot.
That is pretty well done big boy, better then some 'professional' 3/5 links going around
You'll find that raising the panhard and draglink is a big factor in the improved driveability. Probably more then the radius arm flip itself.
You'll find that raising the panhard and draglink is a big factor in the improved driveability. Probably more then the radius arm flip itself.
Thanks Mate. Alot of calcs and testing. Already addressed the rolling axis - body weight - anti sqaut and anti dive factors. She's peeeerfect now. Toying with a few more developments for R&D. ie.. Whiteline heavy duty rear swaybar with hush hush disconnects and dropping the valving on the shocks. Eitherway, it pretty perfect now already.
I ment it with tongue in cheek
My suspension is getting overhauled and reworked for different driving now anyway, its all going.
It actually surprises me that no suspension companies offer uprated sway bars as part of their kits. Instead relying on firm compression valving on the shocks to stop body roll. Which of course doesn't work anywhere except a perfectly flat race track.
What is even funnier is the kind of people who fit stiff shocks, and then drop the tyre pressures just to get a softer ride.
Ah well, at least it's good to see somebody putting some actual thought into their work.
Out of curiosity, what is your background? I can tell by the effort you've put in, particually making a jig for the axle alignment that you aren't the typical boilermaker 4wd enthusiast.
What is even funnier is the kind of people who fit stiff shocks, and then drop the tyre pressures just to get a softer ride.
Ah well, at least it's good to see somebody putting some actual thought into their work.
Out of curiosity, what is your background? I can tell by the effort you've put in, particually making a jig for the axle alignment that you aren't the typical boilermaker 4wd enthusiast.
Suspension shops dont have a clue. They just fit the stuff. Then I have to fix it and make it drive lol.
Its just a passion mate. Im extremely thorough with my R&D and personally test every aspect, and over a duration of time to see how it holds up. Made a few big advances in alot of area's already.
Thanks for the comments.
Its just a passion mate. Im extremely thorough with my R&D and personally test every aspect, and over a duration of time to see how it holds up. Made a few big advances in alot of area's already.
Thanks for the comments.
That is some nice work your doing there. It is more like suspension engineering than suspension building though, which, in defense of suspension shops, isnt really what most of them do, know or often care about.
Anyway, there was a post about a month or so ago about using a bar between the two front bushings, with a pin to the center of the axle. This way there is very little binding of the bushings with articulation, as the bar splits the difference of the rotation of the axle in the situation where only one side of the axle drops. Just to be clear, the rear bushings would still attach to the axle, the front bushings would attach to a bar with bolts out the ends. The center of the bar has a hole through it, which is placed over a large bolt/pin with a bronze bushing, the center pin is welded to the axle.
I mention this as it may be of value to you in you future design, it makes alot of sense to me, if I had the time and not so many projects on my plate already I would consider the radius flip with the bar.
MAF used to offer oversized swaybars. It's not just stiff shocks, the tendency is to put overly stiff springs on too.
That is some nice work your doing there. It is more like suspension engineering than suspension building though, which, in defense of suspension shops, isnt really what most of them do, know or often care about.
Anyway, there was a post about a month or so ago about using a bar between the two front bushings, with a pin to the center of the axle. This way there is very little binding of the bushings with articulation, as the bar splits the difference of the rotation of the axle in the situation where only one side of the axle drops. Just to be clear, the rear bushings would still attach to the axle, the front bushings would attach to a bar with bolts out the ends. The center of the bar has a hole through it, which is placed over a large bolt/pin with a bronze bushing, the center pin is welded to the axle.
I mention this as it may be of value to you in you future design, it makes alot of sense to me, if I had the time and not so many projects on my plate already I would consider the radius flip with the bar.
Your talking about an x link. Another aus design.
Pretty sure cranky still has his sitting on his garage floor. Been around for ages and just like the 3/4/5 y links etc. They flex great. But handle like total garbage on the road. So they started making lockout pins. Another bung with a hole in the crossmember where a pin is inserted to stop it being able to twist. Meaning you have to stop, get out and remove the pin before flexing.
Ive tried many suspensions, and the 1 I have now is by far the best. Regaining its road handling and characteristics. And great flex. Another big difference is because there is still some binding, so it gives feed back to the driver of what its actually doing. Mine has been running normal low nitrogen psi off the shelf shocks for a few months during testing. Before adding the fox. Coil rate is progressive (not stiff) as it doesnt suffer anywhere near as bad as other lifted trucks.
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Walking Eagle said:
Not sure why a torsion bar wouldn't be adaptable to the 80, and would eliminate the need for disconnects.
Currie's AntiRock bar works extremely well on the FJC and 4RNR (I realize a different platform, but the concept is the same) and there's no travel detriment.
Several interesting adaptations available for other vehicles, that include a disconnect system, but I don't know if necessary, or just gimmicky.
Its not that simple. The rear has to be done aswell. You cant raise the rear panhard tower without your link trying to tear itself apart.
Even with the best sway bar set up on the rear. We mostly just use disconnects here. But then have a sway bar loose and flapping around. Let me finish my design and test it. Its a few down on the list currently.