I’m about to order a bunch of parts from Toyota to replace my radiator. Other than the Radiator, cap, 3 main hoses, thermostat, and t-stat gasket, what other parts should I consider replacing “since I’m in there”? Thanks!
Radiator replacement (1 Viewer)
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A new OEM radiator will come with a new cap.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks! Didn’t know that.. saves me ~$15
"what other parts should I consider replacing “since I’m in there”?"
Depends, how far do you want to go?
If the Thermostat is the original or unknown age I would definitely plan on replacing that with an OEM part.
If the cooling system is full of crud I would flush the system before you pull the old radiator (do it while the Tstat is out, just put the housing back together). A mild cleaner, follow the directions, repeat as needed, finish
with a distilled water flush or two (3 gallons from Wally marts).
Be sure to open the block drain (left side of block) while flushing.
If your 80 has corrosion on exposed nuts and bolts in the engine bay consider ordering all the associated fasterners in advance. There are nuts that hold the radiator to the main L shaped support brackets, then there are two cushions at the top sides of the radiator "frame" that have a metal stud that can get rusted to the nut. IME that stud can snap off when you go to remove it. And then there's the long bolt that goes down through the bottom "donut" cushions (2) and the lower cushions themselves can turn rock hard after 25 years, so aren't doing much cushioning at that point IMO.
And if you wanted to take it a step further, those L brackets that support the radiator themselves can get rusty, partly IMO because water and dirt can collect on them. What I did was to clean them up, drill a large hole in the 90' bend so water could drain out, then primed and painted them. And then the next step is to remove the bracket that the L bracket is attached to, ditto, clean it up, prime and paint. It is a lot more time however to fiddle with those parts.
While the radiator is out check the exposed body panels, frame, factory nuts (the ones that are welded on at the factory) and cross-member for rust, good time to clean everything up and fix any rust etc while it's all uncovered. IME the area below the battery box often is first to show rust or damaged paint.
Rattle can black paint for the frame/cross member like Rustoleum is OK but a 2K Epoxy paint (like Spraymax Hot Rod Black for example) is better.
If any bare metal, use a primer of course.
At a minimum IME it helps to soak all the nuts and bolts with penetrating oil before you start.
With the radiator out is a good time to replace all the belts if needed and any other preventive maintenence (water pump, alternator, AC tensioner pulley, Alt belt pulley, Tstat, Oil pump cover gasket, front crank seal, distributor O-ring, ----)
It's a slippery slope, been there done that.
Depends, how far do you want to go?
If the Thermostat is the original or unknown age I would definitely plan on replacing that with an OEM part.
If the cooling system is full of crud I would flush the system before you pull the old radiator (do it while the Tstat is out, just put the housing back together). A mild cleaner, follow the directions, repeat as needed, finish
with a distilled water flush or two (3 gallons from Wally marts).
Be sure to open the block drain (left side of block) while flushing.
If your 80 has corrosion on exposed nuts and bolts in the engine bay consider ordering all the associated fasterners in advance. There are nuts that hold the radiator to the main L shaped support brackets, then there are two cushions at the top sides of the radiator "frame" that have a metal stud that can get rusted to the nut. IME that stud can snap off when you go to remove it. And then there's the long bolt that goes down through the bottom "donut" cushions (2) and the lower cushions themselves can turn rock hard after 25 years, so aren't doing much cushioning at that point IMO.
And if you wanted to take it a step further, those L brackets that support the radiator themselves can get rusty, partly IMO because water and dirt can collect on them. What I did was to clean them up, drill a large hole in the 90' bend so water could drain out, then primed and painted them. And then the next step is to remove the bracket that the L bracket is attached to, ditto, clean it up, prime and paint. It is a lot more time however to fiddle with those parts.
While the radiator is out check the exposed body panels, frame, factory nuts (the ones that are welded on at the factory) and cross-member for rust, good time to clean everything up and fix any rust etc while it's all uncovered. IME the area below the battery box often is first to show rust or damaged paint.
Rattle can black paint for the frame/cross member like Rustoleum is OK but a 2K Epoxy paint (like Spraymax Hot Rod Black for example) is better.
If any bare metal, use a primer of course.
At a minimum IME it helps to soak all the nuts and bolts with penetrating oil before you start.
With the radiator out is a good time to replace all the belts if needed and any other preventive maintenence (water pump, alternator, AC tensioner pulley, Alt belt pulley, Tstat, Oil pump cover gasket, front crank seal, distributor O-ring, ----)
It's a slippery slope, been there done that.
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- Thread starter
- #5
Great info! Thank you, I will definitely take a look at those things you mentioned.
I was surprised when I saw this
Realistically, this makes buying a OEM radiator a slightly better value.
I too was pleasantly surprised when I unboxed mine.
i will do the waterpump as well while you are in there.
- Thread starter
- #9
I may just go ahead and do it along with the belts. I wanted to take advantage of the 25% off Toyota parts deal ending today. I just dropped $375 for the radiator, hoses, tstat and gasket.. what’s a few more hundred
I am on my 3rd radiator (1 CSF, 1 Ron Davis, 1 Lilland) All of them were damaged from rock crawling. (Well except for the CSF, it was performing so badly that after a month of use, i threw it in the dumpster) I have now switched to dual electric fans...will see how it goes...I may just go ahead and do it along with the belts. I wanted to take advantage of the 25% off Toyota parts deal ending today. I just dropped $375 for the radiator, hoses, tstat and gasket.. what’s a few more hundred
I did the fan and shroud as well they get brittle with age.
Slippery slope for sure.
Slippery slope for sure.
I just changed the radiator few months ago. I didn't realize the radiator came with a cap. As a result, I ended up with a spare radiator cap.
Thermostat
T-Stat gasket
(3) O-rings for T-Stat bypass
PHH
Heater Valve
All hoses to heater cores
Throttle body to block
Hose around front to thermostat housing
Literally EVERY hose in the cooling system.
Hoses from the hard lines to the rear heater core. (Lower hard lines)
And a new OEM radiator comes with new foam seal to the core support.
T-Stat gasket
(3) O-rings for T-Stat bypass
PHH
Heater Valve
All hoses to heater cores
Throttle body to block
Hose around front to thermostat housing
Literally EVERY hose in the cooling system.
Hoses from the hard lines to the rear heater core. (Lower hard lines)
And a new OEM radiator comes with new foam seal to the core support.
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Unless your fan clutch has been modded, this is a good opportunity for that update.
How did we make it this far and nobody said "Head Gasket"? 
Take the time to do the foam correctly, it makes a difference in airflow around vs. thru the radiator. Where I live (*Sonoran Desert), every little bit helps, and the guys around here have proven this.
Take the time to do the foam correctly, it makes a difference in airflow around vs. thru the radiator. Where I live (*Sonoran Desert), every little bit helps, and the guys around here have proven this.
