Radiator replacement for 2F

[danmc00]

I belive my stock radiator is finally done. Fixed it once but leaking again. What is a good replacement or should i just replace with OEM? Id like to keep the stock black look of the radiator which is why I’ve shied away from the Champion replacement.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I still have my OEM 72 in place. Yep I had to repair it a few times. I have a brand new in the box 4 core brass one I got on close out from Radiator King for a song like 12 years ago. Not into plastic ones or the aluminium ones because I can't weld/solder aluminum.

I think there have been links to OEM ones at fair price when you consider shipping lately

 

[B y r o n]

As long as the tanks (top and bottom) are in good shape you could have it re-cored providing you have a local shop. Might be cheaper than buying a new factory one.

 

[GA Architect]

I belive my stock radiator is finally done. Fixed it once but leaking again. What is a good replacement or should i just replace with OEM? Id like to keep the stock black look of the radiator which is why I’ve shied away from the Champion replacement.

You may want to reach out to @POTATO LAUNCHER for some help, he is in your general vicinity.

FWIW - If you go OEM sent directly to you, it will be hit-or-miss with their packaging. And this I know from 1st hand knowledge. @Racer65 - City Racer LLC used to carry nice OEM units that were inspected and wrapped very well before sending out. But I'm not sure if he sells them any more.

 

[brian]

just picked an oe up from the local dealer to have as a spare

 

[cruisermatt]

OEM Toyota and buy it from your local dealership to avoid shipping damage.
Your last one lasted +50 years, why would you do something different?

 

[knuckle47]

@cruisermatt This is the most logical statement I have heard in the last month !

 

[bmorefj40]

I just did this a few months ago. The calculus works out to stay oem. Mine lasted the 21 years that I owned it and it wasn’t new when truck came to me and it was filled with super rusty colored coolant. If this next oem one lasts another 20+ years, that’s A+ in my book.

 

[fjc-man]

Looks like 330.00+tax from your neighborhood Toyota dealers online store for OEM.
Oh, and the part# for your 78 is 16400-49356

 

[Racer65]

Looks like 330.00+tax from your neighborhood Toyota dealers online store for OEM.
Oh, and the part# for your 78 is 16400-49356

I wouldn't trust any of these online places to deliver a radiator safely. Many are already damaged by the time they receive stock, because Toyota's packing box is so crappy. Go to a dealer and open the box in person before you accept it. Still a good chance you'll be doing a return on the spot for a damaged radiator.

 

[fjc-man]

Agreed, by neighborhood dealer I’m implying go pick it up at the dealer and of course inspect it before taking it home.

 

[Pighead]

why would you do something different?

1) Sadly, OEM Toyota doesn't offer a new radiator for every model of LandCruiser with a 2F.
B) A good radiator shop can work wonders with your old one. I've had mine re-cored 3 times, once with a 4-row core (which I did not need and did not like), lastly with a 3-row core. Anybody else ever had a problem with the top seam leaking on your OEM radiator? Doesn't happen with the local guy.
III) It's handy to cultivate a good working relationship with the local craftsmen. So that when you accidently knock that coolant overflow nipple off the radiator fill neck, you can just drive over and the old guy will drop everything to solder it back on without you having to pull the radiator.

 

[cruisermatt]

Correct, but he asked about his 40, and they are available for 40’s.

 

[Grayscale]

The online radiator was fine. The OEM 2F headgasket arrived bent during shipping, but, is anyone sending headgaskets with a sheet of plywood?

If you watch a recore procedure, it makes me wonder how they ever get all the impurities off of the brass before it is resoldered? It looks like a dangerous procedure, as far as exposure to metals. The OEM radiator siezed closed at the drain plug and the area around the petcock would distort when I attempted to open it - I'd prefer plastic tanks and a nylon drain plug for this reason (maybe just drain it by removing the lower hose is the solution?). My OEM '73 radiator had a pinhole leak in the top tank - I fixed it with electrical solder and black rattle-can. My OEM Nissan brass radiator failed because the factory tried to solder tabs on it to mount it to the radiator frame (like on my '75 FJ40); it failed with vibration, the plastic fan put a hole in it and bought me a day with the towtruck. After, it was replaced with a plastic-tank, RockAuto, properly secured, aluminum radiator, and the analog dash temp gauge read noticably cooler! Aluminum appears to be a better heat conductor than structural-type copper alloys like yellow brass (zinc and copper). Technology has changed since the FJ40 was introduced. Later FJ40 models employ MIG-welded wheels in place of rivets. In the '70s, GTAW, or TIG welding had no modern tungsten alloy electrodes, so aluminum radiators would have been in the dark, as far as manufacturing. Brass in the coolant appears worse than aluminum in the coolant, as far as potential corrosion of cast iron engine parts. I'm just a shadetree mechanic, not an engineer.

 

[Pighead]

Correct, but he asked about his 40, and they are available for 40’s.

No, he did not. You may have assumed it but "40" has not been mentioned until your post #13.
This is the 40-/55-Tech Forum. The title of the thread only mentions 2F. You asked "why would you". Which leaves the 55 Loophole.
I am generally of the opinion that the old parts when rebuilt can be better than the new parts are new. Stuff like engines and carbs and clutch cylinders. I think more attention is paid to a rebuild and the parts and skill going into it. Certainly, there are wear items that should be replaced, like radiator cores. That's why there are radiator shops. That's what they do and they're good at it. Sometimes, I think, the new OEM metal is not as thick and robust as the old metal. Things like oilpans and fenders. I wonder if the new OEM radiators are made of the same sturdy stuff as the 50 year olds are.
Why would anyone buy a new radiator? Because it's easier, cheaper, faster? OK, what about better?
There's more than one way to build a LandCruiser, thank goodness, and questions like asking why one would do anything different from you when one has already done that with good results, irks me.

 

[cruisermatt]

No, he did not. You may have assumed it but "40" has not been mentioned until your post #13.
This is the 40-/55-Tech Forum. The title of the thread only mentions 2F. You asked "why would you". Which leaves the 55 Loophole.
I am generally of the opinion that the old parts when rebuilt can be better than the new parts are new. Stuff like engines and carbs and clutch cylinders. I think more attention is paid to a rebuild and the parts and skill going into it. Certainly, there are wear items that should be replaced, like radiator cores. That's why there are radiator shops. That's what they do and they're good at it. Sometimes, I think, the new OEM metal is not as thick and robust as the old metal. Things like oilpans and fenders. I wonder if the new OEM radiators are made of the same sturdy stuff as the 50 year olds are.
Why would anyone buy a new radiator? Because it's easier, cheaper, faster? OK, what about better?
There's more than one way to build a LandCruiser, thank goodness, and questions like asking why one would do anything different from you when one has already done that with good results, irks me.

Come on, are you just being argumentative for the sake of arguing?
He has a 40 in his profile picture, a 40 in his signature line, and a half dozen recent classified threads looking for 40 parts. 55 owners generally know they have a 55 and to specify. You should know this.

I am fully aware you can not buy a new 55 radiator off the shelf.

My opinion voiced as a question "irks" you? Sorry, I thought this was an open forum.

 

[charliemeyer007]

This is a Republican Christmas for now, in keeping with the season try to be reasonable and helpful - that's why most of us are here.

 

[2 Bees]

Just recored my 72 FJ40/13B-T, 4 core brass radiator. 40 year old core. Plus had them add extra solder to the tank-core seams where they usually spring a leak.

Total cost $750