Questions about a 94 80 series I’m looking at

[mudgudgeon]

This is very sound advice. Would you say if it’s pretty sorted after PM and replacing worn out stuff these are pretty reliable and dependable vehicles? I will want to take it pretty remote places with my kids. I always thought land cruisers were pretty bulletproof

They are for sure.

Caveat is, they are 30 plus years old. Shìt happens.
Thats what the baselining is all about. Catching up on PO's deferred PM, and getting in front of your own PM.

 

[JoeCova]

93 94 for me.

1fz-fe engine. And, i prefer the dash styling of the early models.

OBD11 in later models has some advantages, but disadvantages too.



In otherwords, personal preference.

I like the simplicity of my 94, will it suck to rebuild in 15 years? ya, but likely LS swap and other shenanigans at that point.

 

[davidlytle]

I like the simplicity of my 94, will it suck to rebuild in 15 years? ya, but likely LS swap and other shenanigans at that point.

In the classic Saab world guys have created a fuel injection mod where you add a new ecu from a newer car swapping out the s***ty old distributor and MAF and putting in direct ignition, only a couple grand but really modernizes the old cars and reliability goes up a ton. Is there a thing like that for the Land Cruiser?

 

[mudgudgeon]

In the classic Saab world guys have created a fuel injection mod where you add a new ecu from a newer car swapping out the s***ty old distributor and MAF and putting in direct ignition, only a couple grand but really modernizes the old cars and reliability goes up a ton. Is there a thing like that for the Land Cruiser?

Yes, and no.

Later versions have better fuel injection systems, but it's not a straight swap.
If you're rebuilding an engine, you can build to the most recent version.

 

[LandLocked93]

And now we're in the weeds; far beyond the original question, which was answered on the first page (and supported on the second and third pages).

 

[mudgudgeon]

And now we're in the weeds; far beyond the original question, which was answered on the first page (and supported on the second and third pages).

Are you new here?

The OP took his thread into the weeds. Who cares.
He asking questions about 94 cruisers.
Pretty sure that was his whole intent.

 

[LandLocked93]

The OP took his thread into the weeds.

Respectfully, no he didn't imo.

 

[mudgudgeon]

 

[LandLocked93]

OP, with regard to the 'end game'...hold out for the 3xl you want.
When baseline'ing, the cost is the same.
Except when baseline'ing an LC you plan to keep. (i.e. using the money for a standard height suspension refresh on a lift suspension that fits your needs)

They made them from '93 to '97.
For concrete evidence, look for "K294" on the door tag AND look for the actuators on each axle (in case the door's been swapped).
The 'K294' code also denotes 4.10 axle ratio, f&r full floats, 4-wheel disc brakes, as well as ABS.

The CDL button thing is sightly different between LC80 Gen2 ('93 & '94) and Gen3 ('95 - '97). Gen1 is '91 - '92.
Biggest diff between Gen1/2 and Gen3 is prob the OBD version. Gen1/2 is OBD1 while Gen3 is ODB2.
Frankly IME you want ODB1 as ODB2 allows for real-time monitoring.

Which leads to 'scanner anxiety'.
Also known as 'trail diexagastriosis'.
Or 'diexanoxtriosis' with diesel 80s.

The whole thing is ugly.
Saw it once.


At any rate, yeah. Stick to the plan if you go in on this one.

 

[davidlytle]

OP, with regard to the 'end game'...hold out for the 3xl you want.
When baseline'ing, the cost is the same.
Except when baseline'ing an LC you plan to keep. (i.e. using the money for a standard height suspension refresh on a lift suspension that fits your needs)

They made them from '93 to '97.
For concrete evidence, look for "K294" on the door tag AND look for the actuators on each axle (in case the door's been swapped).
The 'K294' code also denotes 4.10 axle ratio, f&r full floats, 4-wheel disc brakes, as well as ABS.

The CDL button thing is sightly different between LC80 Gen2 ('93 & '94) and Gen3 ('95 - '97). Gen1 is '91 - '92.
Biggest diff between Gen1/2 and Gen3 is prob the OBD version. Gen1/2 is OBD1 while Gen3 is ODB2.
Frankly IME you want ODB1 as ODB2 allows for real-time monitoring.

Which leads to 'scanner anxiety'.
Also known as 'trail diexagastriosis'.
Or 'diexanoxtriosis' with diesel 80s.

The whole thing is ugly.
Saw it once.


At any rate, yeah. Stick to the plan if you go in on this one.

I really appreciate your input. I don’t know anything about this and want to be informed on what I’m getting into. I don’t really care about the triple lockers but just felt it’s nice to have. my background is in real estate appraising and you need to know your market, and I feel that way with new things I’m getting into. I want to be able to make informed decisions from knowledgeable people. So thank you. I think I’m going to have this one checked out as I’ve not seen one with such a straight body, paint is good, interior nice and frame is perfect, so it’s hard to pass on, it’s also been in AZ and CA it’s entire life. But if it’s really neglected and needs everything rebuilt I’ll definitely hold out for the triple locked lower mile and keep it forever.

 

[Broski]

If it nice as you say you better grab it or it will be gone.
95 percent of them will need the same baseline

 

[DamoFZJ80]

I think it really depends on your budget. I recently purchased a 94 LC with similar miles, condition and price. I am fairly certain I am around $20k into the entire project now to give you an idea to get it baselined. (scared to look at my receipts!!!) This includes the price of the vehicle. I pretty much changed every seal in the motor (main seal, pan, valve cover, etc), fixed an axle seal, changed out all the coolant/heater hoses and radiator...every fluid. Throttle cable. AC recharge. Charcoal Canister. EGR "Offroad Enhancement." Several interior pieces. Third row seats. Shocks/Coils. I still want to get it re-painted, fix some dash lights, fix the driver seat cushion, change out a few speakers, etc. The list will probably never die. Looking at the motor and condition, the baseline will cost some money. Even if you did it all yourself, it will be a couple $1,000.

Pretty much any issue you discover with it, this forum has run into and solved . So, it is an awesome community and appreciate you guys. Good luck with your decision!

 

[BuzzAZ]

That truck has been for sale for almost a year for a reason. I really wanted to like it, but personally thought the pictures made it look A LOT nicer than it was in person. My opinion only, but I got the impression it turned into a teenager’s hand me down and seemed to have been pretty neglected the last few years. The whine sounded like the diff issues to me - you could play it like a fiddle by feathering the gas pedal. I would also plan on replacing the mismatched tires - they’re not doing the truck any favors.

At $9k or so go for it knowing that you’ll probably be $15k into it in a hurry. At $13k I think it’s a hard pass. He said he was getting consistent offers of $11-$12k sight unseen, but he hasn’t sold it yet, so I imagine those wind up being rescinded or reduced significantly when it’s seen in person. I would be patient and wait for the right one to come around.

 

[LandLocked93]

I really appreciate your input. I don’t know anything about this and want to be informed on what I’m getting into. I don’t really care about the triple lockers but just felt it’s nice to have. my background is in real estate appraising and you need to know your market, and I feel that way with new things I’m getting into. I want to be able to make informed decisions from knowledgeable people. So thank you. I think I’m going to have this one checked out as I’ve not seen one with such a straight body, paint is good, interior nice and frame is perfect, so it’s hard to pass on, it’s also been in AZ and CA it’s entire life. But if it’s really neglected and needs everything rebuilt I’ll definitely hold out for the triple locked lower mile and keep it forever.

Copy that.
By "hold out for..." I meant in so doing use this one as a step toward the endgame.
It will be worth it.

 

[LandLocked93]

I think it really depends on your budget. I recently purchased a 94 LC with similar miles, condition and price. I am fairly certain I am around $20k into the entire project now to give you an idea to get it baselined. (scared to look at my receipts!!!) This includes the price of the vehicle. I pretty much changed every seal in the motor (main seal, pan, valve cover, etc), fixed an axle seal, changed out all the coolant/heater hoses and radiator...every fluid. Throttle cable. AC recharge. Charcoal Canister. EGR "Offroad Enhancement." Several interior pieces. Third row seats. Shocks/Coils. I still want to get it re-painted, fix some dash lights, fix the driver seat cushion, change out a few speakers, etc. The list will probably never die. Looking at the motor and condition, the baseline will cost some money. Even if you did it all yourself, it will be a couple $1,000.

Pretty much any issue you discover with it, this forum has run into and solved . So, it is an awesome community and appreciate you guys. Good luck with your decision!

From purchase to baselined(rebuilt trans included) 3" lift(shop job), and just 33" tires and additional wheel set I'm in over $16k.
Lucky it's a factory 3xl to start with.

+1 MUD is an amazing resource.
Largely for the active member support.
But also the posterity of information from those who have gone before.
If you find MUD particularly useful, highly recommend becoming a supporter.

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[CrabCake]

That truck has been for sale for almost a year for a reason. I really wanted to like it, but personally thought the pictures made it look A LOT nicer than it was in person. My opinion only, but I got the impression it turned into a teenager’s hand me down and seemed to have been pretty neglected the last few years. The whine sounded like the diff issues to me - you could play it like a fiddle by feathering the gas pedal. I would also plan on replacing the mismatched tires - they’re not doing the truck any favors.

At $9k or so go for it knowing that you’ll probably be $15k into it in a hurry. At $13k I think it’s a hard pass. He said he was getting consistent offers of $11-$12k sight unseen, but he hasn’t sold it yet, so I imagine those wind up being rescinded or reduced significantly when it’s seen in person. I would be patient and wait for the right one to come around.

This is excellent first hand info from someone that seems to have more insight at the moment than the OP...thanks for your response on the first hand viewing.

Sounds like it may stay for sale for a while if they are holding out for an extra grand or 2....

 

[BuzzAZ]

I don’t know that he wouldn’t take $11 or $12k for it, I just suspect that those offers vaporize when it’s seen in person. Again, speculation on my part but it has been up for sale for a very long time and to my eyes there was a stark difference between the photos and reality.

 

[davidlytle]

That truck has been for sale for almost a year for a reason. I really wanted to like it, but personally thought the pictures made it look A LOT nicer than it was in person. My opinion only, but I got the impression it turned into a teenager’s hand me down and seemed to have been pretty neglected the last few years. The whine sounded like the diff issues to me - you could play it like a fiddle by feathering the gas pedal. I would also plan on replacing the mismatched tires - they’re not doing the truck any favors.

At $9k or so go for it knowing that you’ll probably be $15k into it in a hurry. At $13k I think it’s a hard pass. He said he was getting consistent offers of $11-$12k sight unseen, but he hasn’t sold it yet, so I imagine those wind up being rescinded or reduced significantly when it’s seen in person. I would be patient and wait for the right one to come around.

Wow thank you for the input! That’s really sound advice. He told me the same thing that he wanted his kid to drive it but gas was too expensive. Yeah I’d rather get an already baselined one or pretty close. I 110% know from experience buying a cheaper one costs more in the end. I had to rewire the entire engine bay of my Saab which took 80 hours. I should have just got one already sorted for a couple grand more.

But I’ll heed your advice, it’s why I reached out here in the first place, and I’m so glad I did. I’ll be back though. I really like the 80 series especially how much enjoyment I’d get out up on the Mogollon rim

 

[davidlytle]

I don’t know that he wouldn’t take $11 or $12k for it, I just suspect that those offers vaporize when it’s seen in person. Again, speculation on my part but it has been up for sale for a very long time and to my eyes there was a stark difference between the photos and reality.

It was super weird. He said his wife won’t let it go for less than 13. I’m definitely not. I’m sure the shop will come back with a huge list of deferred maintenance. I already committed to having a shop look at it and it’s on its way there. But out $50-$100 ain’t bad instead of regretting 13k

 

[davidlytle]

From purchase to baselined(rebuilt trans included) 3" lift(shop job), and just 33" tires and additional wheel set I'm in over $16k.
Lucky it's a factory 3xl to start with.

+1 MUD is an amazing resource.
Largely for the active member support.
But also the posterity of information from those who have gone before.
If you find MUD particularly useful, highly recommend becoming a supporter.

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Is that $16k in work?