Questions about a 94 80 series I’m looking at (1 Viewer)

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Nice looking rig in my opinion and twin to mine...If you've been looking for an 80 and like how this one is optioned, I'd jump on $13k. As long as you have a few $k in backup for little projects and can wrench a bit yourself, I'd call it a no-brainer. I made the trip from MD to AZ to grab mine last summer, so being local would save you a few $K just in travel/transport that I spent.

As far as general issues, as others have said, hatch repair can be done or at least controlled for now and cleaned up. Oil leak really isn't that bad since it's more caked than dripping out of it (shows a long time slow leak). A quick engine clean and you can diagnose the repairs needed, starting with the valve cover gasket. Whine can be a lot of things, but doubt that it's catastrophic given the overall look of the truck which shows minimal abuse.

For the triple lock, it's a nice option, but highly overrated (in my opinion) when it comes to resale value. The CDL button is a very easy add with just a button in the dash as the wiring is already there, and as others mentioned, means that you have ABS and full float rear axle and better brakes which is great. Mine has the CDL add on button and is rear locked via ARB and compressor in rear hatch. Front on mine is open and unless you are a hard core off roader, makes zero difference in the capabilities....I've run mine to the limit and still got through everything with a little extra effort that a triple locked (aftermarket) truck did with my same lift/tire spec. In the end, if you lock the rear first and actually use it, you'll probably not worry about the front like me. Also, a high quality Eaton is a relatively easy install and far less expensive than a factory locked truck, while performing as well if not better in the end and not needing the additional compressor (although handy for air-ups too!). In fact, if you look around, you can get the wiring harness for the dash and a wiring diagram to actually hook up an OEM lock switch to run the Eatons which would be cool and clean looking on the dash.

With the ABS optioned truck, I believe that you'd be a late '84 production, which is good. I think the cut is around 3/84 or 4/84, but if after that (mine is 10/84), you'll have the beefier front drive flanges plus other little odd's and ends that are improvements. One quirk to this vintage is that you'll be on OBD1 instead of 2, so you'll need to do your diagnostics with a jumper pin instead of a scan tool. Grab yourself the full service book on it, and it goes through diagnosing just about every system that you could have any issues with, using voltages, vacuum readings, etc....so again, if you are handy, it's pretty easy to work on.

Depending on your off-road wishes, you could probably go with a fresh OEM or equivalent spring and shock set and still be able to bump up a little in tire size to beef it up a little...you'll be amazed with the stance and extra capabilities with this alone as you'r probably sagging a few inches now.

I hope that this is inspiring....mine is my first 80 and I will pass it along to my son (that turned me on to them) in another 30 years before I sell it!

One quick note after looking through your pics again, I'd probably plan to service the front axles...the wiper seals on the Birfs look a little "too dry" for my liking. At least pull the plug out of the top and dip the grease to make sure it's still looking good and proper fill (easy to find out how here on the forums). I'd plan on checking these plus changing all of your diff and trans fluids right off the bat unless you have some service records with history on these items.

Good luck if you take the plunge! Honestly, I can't see how you would loose a dime if you put a few $K into the regular maintenance items that you should do anyway. :steer:
Vehicle prep date shows March 1994 when it left Japan to the dealer here in AZ. This one spent its entire life in AZ and a couple years in California and then back here.

Thanks for the observations on the front axle! It’s pretty likely I get it and I’ll post a lot more detailed shots after I give it s good degreasing. I’m pretty handy and have rebuilt 2 85/87 Saabs, 1 to pretty near show quality redoing all major systems. I think this will be a lot more fun as I’m not a Saab guy I just kinda found my way into them. I love Toyota’s and can’t wait to get this one to get shape.
 
There’s no rust on the frame at all. I think it should be mentioned that resale is potential and me asking specific questions because I don’t know anything about land cruisers which is why I’m asking. I feel intent is important to disclose. This LC seems in really good shape. Just the rust spot on the back hatch.

So this 80 went from "super nice" to "seems in really good shape" in <20 posts.

Sorry to burst your bubble, but a "super nice 80 series" for $13K is like a decade late. Buy the newest, lowest mileage, most well documented/loved 80 you can afford.

But hey, if the wad of cash is burning a hole in your pocket, git 'er done cuz it's been done! lol
 
I was just thinking since the prices have gotten so crazy and the triple locked LC’s are the most desirable I’d go that route.

How many of your decisions would you say were guided by online fads?

Prices will likely drop as the Pandemic "overlanding" (car camping) fad dies and parts go out of production. Who wants to spend their time cobbling together parts from wrecks when you can just buy a Wrangler and deck it out from a catalog?

Do you guys recommend just rubber bushings or poly?

If you read more threads here you'd know that most prefer rubber.

You seem to be focusing on really shallow stuff when you should be reading up on things like the front main seal and the pesky heater hose.
 
Triple locked is overrated and $13k is to high imho. I paid less for half the miles and in better shape. I would offer $10k. 94s have a larger discontinued parts list and thus to some degree less desirable.
 
My 80 was pretty beat and became my post (unwanted) divorce resurrection project, both for the truck and myself. I'd do what makes you smile and have fun. I learned so much too and glad I invested the time, energy, and $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. :D
 
So this 80 went from "super nice" to "seems in really good shape" in <20 posts.

Sorry to burst your bubble, but a "super nice 80 series" for $13K is like a decade late. Buy the newest, lowest mileage, most well documented/loved 80 you can afford.

But hey, if the wad of cash is burning a hole in your pocket, git 'er done cuz it's been done! lol
Thanks dad 😂
 
Thanks dad 😂

De nada

71710311434__5868B59E-07FB-4856-A65E-C878402386D1.jpeg
 
How many of your decisions would you say were guided by online fads?

Prices will likely drop as the Pandemic "overlanding" (car camping) fad dies and parts go out of production. Who wants to spend their time cobbling together parts from wrecks when you can just buy a Wrangler and deck it out from a catalog?



If you read more threads here you'd know that most prefer rubber.

You seem to be focusing on really shallow stuff when you should be reading up on things like the front main seal and the pesky heater hose.
None really, is this a jab? It feels like it. I came here to gain some knowledge from people who own land cruisers and seem to be combative. I really just needed to know if this is an absolutely dumb purchase or if it seems decent. I’m not a wrangler guy or I’d be looking at them. I’ve been cobbling Saabs for 23 years and have a pretty decent one from it. Looking at eBay seems like I can square away the interior pretty easily.

I haven’t read the forums on bushings because I don’t even know what shape needs are in. I just looked at it once

PHH seems like a normal job. Saabs have the same issues with heater control valves which require removing the entire dash. Typically mechanical parts are available and I can look those up on Rock auto or some other source. I’m used to Interior parts being non existent which is why I’m asking. I’m gonna go take some insulin after this post
 
Triple locked is overrated and $13k is to high imho. I paid less for half the miles and in better shape. I would offer $10k. 94s have a larger discontinued parts list and thus to some degree less desirable.
Oh man. Thanks for the info! What years are usually preferred?
 
My 80 was pretty beat and became my post (unwanted) divorce resurrection project, both for the truck and myself. I'd do what makes you smile and have fun. I learned so much too and glad I invested the time, energy, and $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. :D
Lol this would definitely make me smile. My kids sure love the photos of the 80 I’m looking at. I really like how nice the interior, frame, and body is on this. I think it needs some PM care though
 
None really, is this a jab? It feels like it. I came here to gain some knowledge from people who own land cruisers and seem to be combative

Ask legit questions, provide the best answers you can to return questions, you'll get loads of knowledge shared willingly.
There's almost nothing left unknown about these vehicles, and a solid community of knowledgeable people.

On the flip side, some questions get repeated every week by people who have on rose coloured glasses looking at their next fad.

These things can bleed you dry if you buy poorly, and don't understand the depth of the puddle your about to wade into.
They can be awesome too.

Take the jabs and sarcasm in your stride, you'll find you're in the right place for info and help and more
 
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Clean looking rig
I agree the price is high
I prefer the 93-94 also and have a 94
Like others have said personal preference.
Also I agree with the others that said it will need every piece of rubber replaced, full tune up and cooling refresh, front axle rebuild and guaranteed It needs a Main seal, oil pump seal, distributor O ring, valve, cover gasket, and more.
Not necessarily all at once but if you want to make it right it will need it all.
Commonly known as a baselining.
The rust spot is normal if you’re handy you can fix it yourself, I did.
IMHO there’s no way to buy this fix it up and turn it for a profit.
But if you really like it and enjoy wrenching it looks like a good example.
Just get your wallet ready.
I would say 10k tops if you really like it.
 
Clean looking rig
I agree the price is high
I prefer the 93-94 also and have a 94
Like others have said personal preference.
Also I agree with the others that said it will need every piece of rubber replaced, full tune up and cooling refresh, front axle rebuild and guaranteed It needs a Main seal, oil pump seal, distributor O ring, valve, cover gasket, and more.
Not necessarily all at once but if you want to make it right it will need it all.
Commonly known as a baselining.
The rust spot is normal if you’re handy you can fix it yourself, I did.
IMHO there’s no way to buy this fix it up and turn it for a profit.
But if you really like it and enjoy wrenching it looks like a good example.
Just get your wallet ready.
I would say 10k tops if you really like it.
I agree, I’m thinking I’d probably keep it and do all the work. It’s really clean and I’ve checked out other ones in way worst shape. I’m going to take it to a mechanic and I’m sure they’ll come back with that full report and I can use it to get him a little lower. But he said his wife loves it and she’s pretty firm on 13k.
 
Search "baselining" here

Somethings you're best to stick with OEM parts.
Rubber bushes, belts, oil filters, axle seal, universal joints etc.

Other things, there's good after market alternatives
 
Ask legit questions, provide the best answers you can to return questions, you'll get loads of knowledge shared willingly.
There's almost nothing left unknown about these vehicles, and a solid community of knowledgeable people.

On the flip side, some questions get repeated every week by people who have on rose coloured glasses looking at their next fad.

These things can bleed you dry if you buy poorly, and don't understand the depth of the puddle your about to wade into.
They can be awesome too.

Take the jabs and sarcasm in your stride, you'll find you're in the right place for info and help and more
This is very sound advice. Would you say if it’s pretty sorted after PM and replacing worn out stuff these are pretty reliable and dependable vehicles? I will want to take it pretty remote places with my kids. I always thought land cruisers were pretty bulletproof
 

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