Builds PZJ70 build-refurbish!? (4 Viewers)

[SNLC]

Back together it goes....

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Just a thought, if you put a 1mm washer under the release fork ball with the increase in moment you may have your 5mm.. no, on second thoughts there will be almost no increase, due to no moment increase, alternatively you could have another machined up providing there is enough clearance in the bell housing.

The IP look great, looking forward to the results.

So after playing with numbers, measurements and both the 1PZ flywheel and 1HZ flywheel yesterday I don’t think what you have compares to what I have.

You said you are not using the 1HZ flywheel and your numbers don’t match anything I have besides the original t/o bearing.

I have checked the starter, I am good to go. I have checked the rest as well and believe I am also good to go.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

I got new motor mounts installed the other day. I am working on some plumbing and wiring before stuffing the trans and tcase back in the truck.

That will be today or tomorrow.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

I am going to spam and chat in my own thread for a hot minute!

I have had many trucks over the years but this one I will always remember. Every once in a while I look at pics of it just to put a smile on my face.

1983 Nissan Patrol that was brought to the USA from Germany by the original owner in about 1987 when he moved here. I do believe that was before our current import laws.

It was bone stock when I got it with not a single dent or rust spot on it anywhere. I bought it in 2002 from the 2nd owner who didn’t do anything with it.

The Nissan turbo diesel was super and turbo charged with two intercoolers as well. Shave sump and just a whole lot of engine work. It was three linked in from and a tri four link in the rear. It rode on 16” coil overs. Full hydro steering too. Axles we Portal Techs and it ride on 40” rubber.

Hell of a fun build and truck that I took wheeling all over the West. Sadly I parted it out a few years back and scrapped the body and frame.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

So the trans went in no problems at all. Slave cylinder is mounted up as well and seems to have plenty of throw. I am not seeing any issues but if for some reason there is, I can fine tune it with the slave rod length.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

I got this used but nice cluster assembly from a Canadian BJ70. The owner wants mph so I grabbed this to do that.

Haven’t started playing with it yet but this is the first abnormality I see.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

A bunch of pics of recent work. This kind of work is slow going and not much to look at.

-front and rear elockers wired and wiring ran to relay location in the engine bay.

-front and rear diff breathes plumbed.

-drivelines installed.

-engine wiring harness rebuilt.

-alt upgrade needs at 1HDTFE bracket.

-glow plugs and injectors and IP all installed and plumbed.

-rear brake line made and installed, the one from the engine bay to the rear axle I had to make.

Just a whole bunch of stuff like this has been going on for the last few weeks. In another couple weeks I should be wrapping it up and getting it ready to go out for exhaust, sliders/bumper and some other work I am outsourcing.

Oh ya, got some super sweet shocks going in it, I will post some pics soon.

I am super excited to take this thing for its first test drive!



Cheers

 

[Gengis]

Great thread, thank you for your efforts in bringing it to us.

2 things from my side,
What is this thing, I'm 99% sure I dont have one on my Hz.
,

Also, regarding the clutch slave. It seems as if there is a positive pressure from s spring within the slave on to the thrust bearing, keeping the bearing in constant contact with the presure plate! Is this correct?? My experiance is with Land Rovers which did there best to keep the two apart from each other.
I ask this because I resently replaced my R151 gear box with a H150 and used the same fork, rod and slave as was on the R151. This is when I noticed no external spring keeping the two appart and in fact an internal spring making sure they stay coupeled.
Any idea of how to measure this, I want to lengthen the rod to get more release , but dont want too much pressure on the clutch when released.

G

 

[SNLC]

Great thread, thank you for your efforts in bringing it to us.

2 things from my side,
What is this thing, I'm 99% sure I dont have one on my Hz.
,View attachment 1955213

Also, regarding the clutch slave. It seems as if there is a positive pressure from s spring within the slave on to the thrust bearing, keeping the bearing in constant contact with the presure plate! Is this correct?? My experiance is with Land Rovers which did there best to keep the two apart from each other.
I ask this because I resently replaced my R151 gear box with a H150 and used the same fork, rod and slave as was on the R151. This is when I noticed no external spring keeping the two appart and in fact an internal spring making sure they stay coupeled.
Any idea of how to measure this, I want to lengthen the rod to get more release , but dont want too much pressure on the clutch when released.

G

That is the vacuum pump.


I can’t really answer your second question. I have not converted the trans, only the flywheel and clutch. I can tell you I have 1/2” or more of free play on the t/o bearing in relation to it contacting the clutch forks. So no it is not in constant contact with the clutch.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Fixing up the engine bay part of the main harness.

Not done yet but you get the idea.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

@Loober found it.

Cheers

 

[Loober]

@SNLC thanks, what is the third piece that looks like a black plug go to? Mine is got all cinched and can't tell where that connected to.

 

[SNLC]

@SNLC thanks, what is the third piece that looks like a black plug go to? Mine is got all cinched and can't tell where that connected to.

Isn’t yours a 13bt?

Cheers

 

[Loober]

no its not, started life as a 1HZ now 1HDFT

 

[SNLC]

no its not, started life as a 1HZ now 1HDFT

Ok, see if this helps ya.

This one goes to the a/c idle up valve.

To trans harness

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Inner front fenders trimmed to suit new suspension, two coats of POR15 on both sides before top coating. No they are not staying black.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Next step for inner fenders, I am doing the same thing here I did in the rear wheel wells.

Two heavy coats of rubberized undercoating after scuffing back the POR15.

This is the product I am using, it is paintable.

This should work well to achieve my goal which is sealed up and rust proofed.

Cheers