Builds Putting the rust demon at bay (5 Viewers)

[archie73]

Last big trail ride was Kane Creek. For the most part it’s a scenic trail, but it has one good pucker section. At least when you do it backwards. I don’t know why we keep doing these trails backwards, but I’m honestly glad we did on Steelbender- I really don’t want to do that drop.
Like I said, super scenic trail

You drop into this canyon and its gorgeous vistas in every direction.

(I’m a terrible photographer, but once in a while I find a nut.)
Right after this spot when we were getting ready for the next obstacle, the bronco tore it’s rag joint apart. No it wasn’t a good place on the trail. We broke out the tools and stared at it for a moment and cursed. The rubber isolator had left the building. With trepidation we bolted the remains pieces back together. We said our prayers and continued on down.

The above picture is the top of hamburger hill. Going down it’s techy enough to make you get out of the truck and get a better look. Then you climb back in and proceed. The next section is the meat of Hamburger Hill (see what I did there). It’s also the section I misjudged my turning radius and vehicle dimensions. As a result I munched the passenger side fender. Boooooo. Fortunately, a club rolled up on us at this exact moment and pulled on the driver side cage and it saved my tub from getting creased. I pulled it away from the tire, so I didn’t have to listen to it rub.

There was a drop to the left that I thought was more then I wanted to do and that would have been the way to do it. The club sent one of their built LJ’s up and winched the bronco over the ledge. Could he done it without the winch? Possibly, but it would have been touch and go. He was definitely in the tipping zone, but the winch line kept him under control. So we pulled off at the bottom while the club got their jeeps up the hill.

Once they were up the trail, we headed out to finish the trail. The description said there are 50 creek crossings. I didn’t keep track, but it’s likely true. This was a common occurrence.

Overall, it was a great trail. Super scenic. Even awe inspiring. But truly Hamburger Hill was the only difficult portion. The trail is long, but stunning from end to beginning.

On the way out on the graded Kane Creek Rd, I came across a group of SxS that one of them had gone off the road. Thankfully, no one was hurt, but the machine was 8’ below the road. We hooked the cruiser up and got it topside again. It was pretty beat up and they said they had a trailer coming, so I headed down to find the bronco waiting.

The bronco made it out on the cobbled rag joint. I would have bet good money that the two bolts holding it together would have snapped. And I would have lost. At the parts store we found out his steering ram had come off the drag link as well. It drove out on its own power so there’s that, I guess.

Outside of the fender rash and the constant rattles and shakes, the cruiser did great. I have another project in the works and it leaves me at a crossroads of where to go with the cruiser. I have no plans to sell- I promised the wife it’s not going anywhere. My next project is going to have wider axles and longer wheelbase. These are the two things I want for the 40, but I don’t want to stretch it. I love it for what it is. And the fact that I built it from the ground up. When people ask me how I can wheel when they are so expensive, I just say that’s what I built it to do.

 

[clrussell]

I’ve spent the better part of this week reading this thread in my free time.

What a great cruiser build. Simple. Thorough. Well used.

Still can’t believe no heater haha.

Thanks for sharing this with us.

 

[archie73]

I’ve spent the better part of this week reading this thread in my free time.

What a great cruiser build. Simple. Thorough. Well used.

Still can’t believe no heater haha.

Thanks for sharing this with us.

Yeah it’s not perfect. It’s got scratches and bruises, but it chugs right along. The v8 might be my favorite thing (sorry purists). It just scoots right along on the highway. On the trail it’ll lug or rip right up to the high rpm’s.

The heater, since I don’t run a top, it just doesn’t seem worth the effort. My shifter is in the way. I don’t want to cut the heater up to accommodate the shifter. I’d also have to cut a new hole in the firewall, as my passenger side head is blocking the factory hole. If I recall correctly, the stock heater would cook my right foot and the rest of me would be cold. That was with a top. But mostly I don’t drive it in the winter. And living in the mountains you get used to dressing for the cold. My seats are heated, but they don’t currently work- need to put that back on the list.

 

[clrussell]

Yeah it’s not perfect. It’s got scratches and bruises, but it chugs right along. The v8 might be my favorite thing (sorry purists). It just scoots right along on the highway. On the trail it’ll lug or rip right up to the high rpm’s.

The heater, since I don’t run a top, it just doesn’t seem worth the effort. My shifter is in the way. I don’t want to cut the heater up to accommodate the shifter. I’d also have to cut a new hole in the firewall, as my passenger side head is blocking the factory hole. If I recall correctly, the stock heater would cook my right foot and the rest of me would be cold. That was with a top. But mostly I don’t drive it in the winter. And living in the mountains you get used to dressing for the cold. My seats are heated, but they don’t currently work- need to put that back on the list.

I don’t remember any posts of broken axle shafts front or rear. Is that accurate?

Just stay off the skinny pedal and long fields in the front?

 

[archie73]

I don’t remember any posts of broken axle shafts front or rear. Is that accurate?

Just stay off the skinny pedal and long fields in the front?

OG Longfields front, stocker rear. Interwebs consensus seems to be the rear stocker is good to 35’s, maybe 37’s. Generally speaking, everyone agrees the front needs to be upgraded when locked. I try not to hammer the skinny pedal, but I sometimes forget…

If I put the 37’s on I should probably upgrade the rear. As much as I want to put them on, they just require more changes then I want to do in terms of height. 95% of the time this is driven on the highway- 60% of that is by my wife. Road manners count more than offroad performance.

Kinda long winded response, but like I said I’m at a crossroads. Im constantly weighing options. For the couple times a year I go to the desert I want more offroad performance, but realistically I will probably maintain the road manners.

 

[clrussell]

OG Longfields front, stocker rear. Interwebs consensus seems to be the rear stocker is good to 35’s, maybe 37’s. Generally speaking, everyone agrees the front needs to be upgraded when locked. I try not to hammer the skinny pedal, but I sometimes forget…

If I put the 37’s on I should probably upgrade the rear. As much as I want to put them on, they just require more changes then I want to do in terms of height. 95% of the time this is driven on the highway- 60% of that is by my wife. Road manners count more than offroad performance.

Kinda long winded response, but like I said I’m at a crossroads. Im constantly weighing options. For the couple times a year I go to the desert I want more offroad performance, but realistically I will probably maintain the road manners.

I really don’t see many reports of people breaking rear axles. I mean it happens but most people don’t even bother with spares at 35s or under.

I agree with road manners over wheeling with your use. I drive mine way more than it will get wheeled.

I’ve been dreaming of 37s and fit under a 7’ door. It’s a pipe dream but I like low lift and big tires. Maybe on phase 17 of this build.

Currently on 4” and 33s and it touches the garage door seal with the hardtop on. Next tire size will be 35s or bigger, and I don’t plan on mine being any taller suspension wise.

 

[archie73]

I’ve been dreaming of 37s and fit under a 7’ door. It’s a pipe dream but I like low lift and big tires. Maybe on phase 17 of this build.

This is my exact sentiment.

1. I’ve thought of linking the cruiser, but the cost is huge and I have other brands in the fire currently that will suck the fun funds up.
2. SOA is more lift then I want. I additionally don’t want to deal with axle wrap.
3. I could respring it. As mentioned in an earlier post, I recently realized just how much my lift has settled.
4. I really like the ride currently. So does the wife- this definitely matters.
5. Soon I’ll have teenage boy driver in the house- more lift seems detrimental to say the least.

So currently, I’m looking for some 35’s that have more offroad slant to them. They’ll go on the beadlocks, so I can take advantage of the lower pressure. The Geolanders are great on the highway, but the sidewalls do not flex terribly well. On the trip I double checked that I didn’t accidentally buy load range E tires. They’re a great tire, don’t get me wrong. A bit cheaper (when I was shopping) than BFG’s as well.

 

[clrussell]

This is my exact sentiment.

1. I’ve thought of linking the cruiser, but the cost is huge and I have other brands in the fire currently that will suck the fun funds up.
2. SOA is more lift then I want. I additionally don’t want to deal with axle wrap.
3. I could respring it. As mentioned in an earlier post, I recently realized just how much my lift has settled.
4. I really like the ride currently. So does the wife- this definitely matters.
5. Soon I’ll have teenage boy driver in the house- more lift seems detrimental to say the least.

So currently, I’m looking for some 35’s that have more offroad slant to them. They’ll go on the beadlocks, so I can take advantage of the lower pressure. The Geolanders are great on the highway, but the sidewalls do not flex terribly well. On the trip I double checked that I didn’t accidentally buy load range E tires. They’re a great tire, don’t get me wrong. A bit cheaper (when I was shopping) than BFG’s as well.

What about these.

 

[archie73]

What about these.

View attachment 3762701

Looks good, similar tread to my Geolanders. If I’m going to get something for the beadlocks, it’ll be pretty aggressive. I’m not sure picky, something like this

I’d keep the current tires for the street and just put the beadlocks on for the occasional trip.
The bronco in the above posts has thornbirds and it sticks to the rocks like crazy. I don’t love thornbirds, but something with a soft compound would be nice. This is the idea I had with the 37’s, but they are to big.

 

[clrussell]

Looks good, similar tread to my Geolanders. If I’m going to get something for the beadlocks, it’ll be pretty aggressive. I’m not sure picky, something like thisView attachment 3762897
I’d keep the current tires for the street and just put the beadlocks on for the occasional trip.
The bronco in the above posts has thornbirds and it sticks to the rocks like crazy. I don’t love thornbirds, but something with a soft compound would be nice. This is the idea I had with the 37’s, but they are to big.

It’s hard to beat swampers. Proven old school traction.

Those Above mickeys are competition blended compound. Not trying to sell you on them, but don’t rule them out. Readily available, good street manners.

The BAJA BOSS XS Triumphs at the 2024 King of the Hammers

The BAJA BOSS XS Triumphs at the 2024 King of the Hammers

www.mickeythompsontires.com

 

[archie73]

It’s hard to beat swampers. Proven old school traction.

Those Above mickeys are competition blended compound. Not trying to sell you on them, but don’t rule them out. Readily available, good street manners.

The BAJA BOSS XS Triumphs at the 2024 King of the Hammers

The BAJA BOSS XS Triumphs at the 2024 King of the Hammers

www.mickeythompsontires.com

View attachment 3763002

I hadn’t noticed they were comp compound. That makes them more interesting. The other hard truth of life is that I’ll be buying used. I can’t justify the cost of a new set of tires that will only be used on wheeling trips twice a year.

The reason I jumped on the 37’s is they were $260 for the set. I figured it was worth the risk. I’m go lad I did- it showed me what I need to do in order to run them. The beadlocks are much the same: they cost $650 and I sold the tires they had for $250. These will require wheel spacers and longer studs, but nothing is free.

What I’m trying to say is I’m cheap. Until something special catches my eye and then I get stupid impulsive…

 

[archie73]

Time for a hard right turn OR MAYBE this is logical…

Body work

So last year I tweaked the windshield frame beyond my metal skills. I got it back to a reasonable shape, but it’s not straight. Real problem is I see the wrinkle when I drive it. I can readily ignore the passenger side, but this is directly in the field of view when driving. A month or so ago, I picked up a replacement from @R.K. for a very reasonable price. It’s not perfect, but neither is my rig.

It came with some extras: half the wiring for the wipers, mirror bracket, the clips to hold the wire in place and half of the passenger side hinge. As expected, it’s got a couple broken bolts to get out. One is the dreaded hinge screw. I tried the impact screwdriver, nope. The Map torch, nope. Time for the mig, nope. The nut I welded on just popped off, twice. After grinding it back down, I gave the screwdriver one more shot. I was pleasantly surprised the extra heat had broken the bolt free.

Unfortunately, the other broken bolts resisted the welding, they had broken off too deep to get them cleaned up enough to weld. Shame, this is so much faster than moving up through drill bit sizes and retapping the hole. So that took some time, but I got them both cleaned up and functional. Since I had the taps out, I chased all the other captured nuts.

It’s got a couple coats of paint. The black came off pretty easy, but the oem blue put up a fight. I probably went through 6 batteries on the grinder between the wire wheel and the stripping discs.

I still need to get the tight areas. Maybe a dremel will work, but the ones I had on hand were super cheesy. They blew apart the first time they touched the metal. I’ll look into better ones.

There’s some very light pitting here and there. I’m thinking of hitting those areas with POR-15 and then the primer. I’d rather not grind down the pitted spots and create large low spots. This time I am avoiding any body filler on this project. I’m no body guy, so I’m open to suggestions.

 

[pb4ugo]

Maybe spot putty or coats of high build sandable primer.

 

[archie73]

I got a solid coat of POR15 on one side of the windshield frame. Thankfully, I live in a dry environment, so the bare metal is holding up fine. When this side dries I’ll flip it and do the other side. I’m being kinda sloppy to get it into the nooks and crannies. I’m planning to block sand it after it cures. My hope is it’ll treat the low areas that stripping didn’t reach and then the painting process will protect the rest. Sorry no pics.

While that cures I spent way too much time working out my game plan for the bib “reinforcement”. Like a lot of people here I spend an inordinate amount of time just looking at it to come up with a game plan. Then it comes time to start scrounging together metal and cutting it “just right”. I found a couple sticks of 1” square tube. One of them was even basically straight. The other had been used as a lever one to many times, but sufficed for the short sections. The goal here is to be completely hidden behind the bib, so it doesn’t have to be pretty. I does need to be strong though.

First order of business was straightening the bottom edge.

The rust had put a decent ripple in the straight edge. I clamped a nicer section of 1.5” tube on the inside and persuaded it back into a straighter edge with some light taps. Next was the reinforcement frame. This took some head scratching with the scraps I had on hand.

So this is where I’m at -

Where the fender bolts on, I’m going to build some tabs for the tube fenders to attach to. I’ll knock those out on the plasma table tomorrow. I need to figure out the bib hinge attachment- the tube edges line up halfway across the holes and that won’t work. Otherwise the frame sits in the bib nice and snug.

Originally I was going to rosette weld the frame to the bib, but now I’m thinking that’s a bad idea. Since the frame is so much stiffer than the bib, I’m afraid the rosettes will rip out when flexing the suspension. So I’m thinking I’ll simply fill the holes from the old brace and let the frame “float”.

 

[knuckle47]

Can you imagine taking the 50+ years of modifications that enthusiastic fanatics have made over to Japan and having the engineers compile all of the data THEN start rebuilding the FJ40 exactly as it looked then, with all these new discoveries?

 

[archie73]

Can you imagine taking the 50+ years of modifications that enthusiastic fanatics have made over to Japan and having the engineers compile all of the data THEN start rebuilding the FJ40 exactly as it looked then, with all these new discoveries?

Sounds intriguing, but I don’t think I could afford the final product. I’m currently dailying a car that cost me a quarter of what I have into the cruiser not including my labor. The commuter has seven times the tech in it( & most of it works). If someone made my truck over I fear what it would cost. Of course they might not make as many mistakes….

 

[archie73]

Bib work continues (&possibly nearing completion)…

Brace/frame is fully welded and painted. Tabs to connect to the eventual tube fenders line up with the existing fender tie-in. Triangulation isn’t perfect, but it’s better than nothing. I contemplated running a bar across the bottom of the headlights, but ultimately decided it would require tube work beyond my time and skill set. As it stands, it is considerably stronger than it was without the brace.

The bib metal work is also as good as it’s going to get. Using a copper backing plate and clamps I filled the holes leftover from removing the spot welds holding the oem brace and the grill brackets. The grill brackets had to be removed to allow the new brace to run across the channel. Where the holes are filled, it came out pretty good. I think some high build primer should hide the slight imperfections. I take that back; while taking the pictures I realized I still have some holes to fill- but I’m close. (Also I got a Milwaukee 12v die grinder and some attachments for finish work. I better test that out!!!)

The area behind old brace was heavily pitted. In one area, it had actually rusted through. I was able knock out a quick patch piece. A hundred stitch welds and grinding later, I have a respectable patch. At least on the side people will see. I used a thick coat of POR15 to stop the rust on the affected area.

So here it sits with the brace in place.

The hinge will bolt through the bib into the new brace. Likewise, the grill will attach to the brace down low and the bib up high. This will be better than the current situation just kinda floating between the bib and radiator. One of the shortcomings of the current fiberglass bibs is that it has no way of attaching the grill. I had tried to epoxy some stand off blocks to the grill, but that didn’t work.

Still to do:

1. Fill remaining holes with light tack welds
2. Smooth new welds with new toy tool.
3. Paint match bib.
4. Install lights in bib.
5. Install bib
6. Assemble new Xmas tube bender.
7. Build tube fenders.

Ok, I guess I’m not really that close to being done, but I’m closer then I was last time I updated

 

[archie73]

Last fall I was pulling firewood out of the woods and the winch got finicky. I ignored it and when I was in Moab I paid the price. Winch went out, but not in. So I did what any red blooded American does: I bought some stuff off the internet!!! Albright contactor to be exact.
Install was confusing because I was correlating 3 different wiring diagrams- winch, aftermarket remote and contactor.

Once I got everything sorted and properly grounded, I was back to the same situation as before- goes out, but won’t retract. I traced it down to the wireless remote control box. So that was likely the problem all along, but now I have the Albright contactor upgrade.

While I was there I addressed the aged wiring a brittle plastic. New motor leads were made to replace the dry and cracked pieces. The wired controller socket had lost its hold on cover. One of the pegs had snapped some time ago. I made a bracket to saddle the socket and bolted it to the cover. None of it will win any beauty contests, but it works again.

I ordered another wireless remote, the convenience factor is worth the effort on this front. This makes me think maybe I should consider hardwiring an interior switch as well, but that’s another day.

 

[archie73]

Ok my ADD is kicking in…
Couple years ago I made a crossmember to replace the AA propeller mount. It replaced the pto (?) plates on the SM465 with weldable 3/16 plate. This I welded directly to the cobble fabbed crossmember I had whipped up. It wasn’t pretty, but it held up for a year or two. This summer I was having trouble shifting in & out 4wd. Turns out the cobble fabbed xmember had failed. What’s one to do? Cobble it back together.

I rosette welded some angle on and carried on. It held, but I knew I had to do something more.

Enter the plasma table. I drew up a x member and cut it out of 3/16 plate. It (right) seemed a little beefier

Nothing is ever as easy as you planned, but with time it’ll get done.

Just need to fill the transmission and I’ll take it for a test ride.

 

[archie73]

Like I need another distraction…

I’ve wanted one for a while, but I could never justify the expense, so I kept an eye out for a used one, but when I came across a YouTube episode that featured a $200 bender I acted. (All told it’s more than that with all the add ons.) I have no expierence with one so it’ll take some figuring.

First project is tube fenders. Inner and outer framing started. We’ll see how I do.

It’s gotta look better then this one.