Builds Putting the rust demon at bay (1 Viewer)

[archie73]

So I have a game plan. I think.

I ordered a boxing kit from RuffStuff. While I wait, I cleaned the cracked area up in preparation for welding. At the end of the crack I drilled a hole. (From my googling, this helps relieve some of pressure?) For better access to the crack, I removed the corner of the body mount. This allowed me to get the wire wheel in there to removed the paint. Using the stone on the die grinder, I made a groove along the crack it get better penetration.

I’m not a super experienced welder, but this should be a good start. I did a root pass in the groove and then a top pass over top. Should I be welding the hole shot now? I’m not positive on this detail?

This will be step one, this should get me to the shop at work where I have access to more tools. When I have time, I’ll lift the 3/4 tub up enough to have full access to the rear of the frame. That’s when I’ll add the frame plates and consider additional strengthening.

I also ordered the RuffStuff spring hangers. Im not positive I’ll go down this road, but they were a reasonable price. This would allow me to fish plate the outer frame as well. I’d have to remove the body mount for this, but that is less concerning than the spring hanger. I think I could simply slot the bolt hole for the tub to make up for the added material and bolt it back on.

Having gotten this far I can install some brand new OME Dakar springs I found for sale locally for $60. I have a slight sagging in the rear springs.

My biggest fear here is falling into the rabbit hole and doing a frame off again. FOCUS!!!

 

[clrussell]

Let me dig up a link on the rear hanger support.

 

[clrussell]

Somewhere around page 32 there’s a ton of hangar info.

 

[archie73]

Are you referring to triangulating the top back to the frame? If so, that’s my plan. Not sure if I’ll be using the RuffStuff hangers ore the oem. That’ll be game time decision when I reach that point.

 

[pb4ugo]

This spring hanger frame crsck is not uncommon. Once the frame is fixed you should reinfoce the hanger. You can use the search function "spring hanger reinforcement " and come up with 3 pages on the subject. Here's one of them.

Rear spring mount (FWD) frame crack repair.

As many know the problem with pre 80's 40 frames cracking due to excessive flexing ( cold rivets) and lack of proper support on the cantilever spring mount. This Arizona rig is cancer free and freshly sand blasted making it much easier to repair the crack and improve the spring mount design...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[clrussell]

Are you referring to triangulating the top back to the frame? If so, that’s my plan. Not sure if I’ll be using the RuffStuff hangers ore the oem. That’ll be game time decision when I reach that point.

Yes.

I have a set of these for my 40. It’s the easy button.

FJ40 Spring Hanger Gussets

A pair of weld on gussets to prevent your rear spring hanger brackets from bending and cracking the frame. Made from 3/16" steel, welds on for extra support. Sold in pairs.

varozza-4x4-outfitters.myshopify.com

Courtesy of
@OlYellr

 

[archie73]

This spring hanger frame crsck is not uncommon. Once the frame is fixed you should reinfoce the hanger. You can use the search function "spring hanger reinforcement " and come up with 3 pages on the subject. Here's one of them.

Rear spring mount (FWD) frame crack repair.

As many know the problem with pre 80's 40 frames cracking due to excessive flexing ( cold rivets) and lack of proper support on the cantilever spring mount. This Arizona rig is cancer free and freshly sand blasted making it much easier to repair the crack and improve the spring mount design...

forum.ih8mud.com

I’ve read that and I’m hoping to recreate something similar. Good to have it referenced here as well.

This brings up the little things (rabbit hole) I’ll need to address for the boxing:

1. Brake line tab
2. Tabs for wiring
3. Airline tab (locker)
4. Rear tub mounts
5. New shock studs for the new crossmember (anyone got a quick reference for these?)

1-4 I can knock out on the plasma table at work. I’m trying to find the right shock studs right now, but I need to make Mother’s Day breakfast soon.

 

[OlYellr]

So I have a game plan. I think.

I ordered a boxing kit from RuffStuff. While I wait, I cleaned the cracked area up in preparation for welding. At the end of the crack I drilled a hole. (From my googling, this helps relieve some of pressure?) For better access to the crack, I removed the corner of the body mount. This allowed me to get the wire wheel in there to removed the paint. Using the stone on the die grinder, I made a groove along the crack it get better penetration.

View attachment 3903758I’m not a super experienced welder, but this should be a good start. I did a root pass in the groove and then a top pass over top. Should I be welding the hole shot now? I’m not positive on this detail?View attachment 3903757

This will be step one, this should get me to the shop at work where I have access to more tools. When I have time, I’ll lift the 3/4 tub up enough to have full access to the rear of the frame. That’s when I’ll add the frame plates and consider additional strengthening.

I also ordered the RuffStuff spring hangers. Im not positive I’ll go down this road, but they were a reasonable price. This would allow me to fish plate the outer frame as well. I’d have to remove the body mount for this, but that is less concerning than the spring hanger. I think I could simply slot the bolt hole for the tub to make up for the added material and bolt it back on.

Having gotten this far I can install some brand new OME Dakar springs I found for sale locally for $60. I have a slight sagging in the rear springs.

My biggest fear here is falling into the rabbit hole and doing a frame off again. FOCUS!!!

Just found your thread from @clrussell tagging me. I bought that kit and went a different route for my frame crack - I have a 1980 frame - some things were just a bit different. Point is - I have the kit just sitting there if anybody needs/wants - else my kids will deal with it in my estate.

I get the c-channel separation and even more so with a VT frame. We used a block behind the inner channel to tighten up the gap from frame/c-channel. When I take my transmission/Tcase out - will finish what was started.

That is such a known failure point - the gusset is so needed IMO. On the 79 and new frames (I think starting in 79), right above the hanger is a body mount - so designed a different gusset that fits inside the body mount to hanger that can be welded in.

The one Corbin has/posted above won't work with frames where the body mounts is directly above.

Also - played around with a light and found holes in the frame and took time to weld in some bracing etc - not tying to highjack anything, but since that far in decide to see if there were things that were not obvious... for example - could not see the hole in frame in the image below until lights out and flashlight.

 

[archie73]

Just found your thread from @clrussell tagging me. I bought that kit and went a different route for my frame crack - I have a 1980 frame - some things were just a bit different. Point is - I have the kit just sitting there if anybody needs/wants - else my kids will deal with it in my estate.

I get the c-channel separation and even more so with a VT frame. We used a block behind the inner channel to tighten up the gap from frame/c-channel. When I take my transmission/Tcase out - will finish what was started.

That is such a known failure point - the gusset is so needed IMO. On the 79 and new frames (I think starting in 79), right above the hanger is a body mount - so designed a different gusset that fits inside the body mount to hanger that can be welded in.
View attachment 3903871
The one Corbin has/posted above won't work with frames where the body mounts is directly above.

Also - played around with a light and found holes in the frame and took time to weld in some bracing etc - not tying to highjack anything, but since that far in decide to see if there were things that were not obvious... for example - could not see the hole in frame in the image below until lights out and flashlight.

View attachment 3903872

Mine cracked down the vertical side and all the way across the bottom. I tacked the bottom until I have better access to the from lifting the 3/4 tub. I’m tempted by the RuffStuff kit, I still haven’t gotten a shipment notice from them. I’ll call tomorrow.

 

[cruisermatt]

I’ve read that and I’m hoping to recreate something similar. Good to have it referenced here as well.

This brings up the little things (rabbit hole) I’ll need to address for the boxing:

1. Brake line tab
2. Tabs for wiring
3. Airline tab (locker)
4. Rear tub mounts
5. New shock studs for the new crossmember (anyone got a quick reference for these?)

1-4 I can knock out on the plasma table at work. I’m trying to find the right shock studs right now, but I need to make Mother’s Day breakfast soon.

I make 1 and 5 already if you want to support a Mud vendor Happy to throw in a few SS brake line tabs if you buy some shock studs.

 

[clrussell]

I make 1 and 5 already if you want to support a Mud vendor Happy to throw in a few SS brake line tabs if you buy some shock studs.

Good info to know. I hadn’t seen these offered

 

[cruisermatt]

Good info to know. I hadn’t seen these offered

My brake line tabs are on the website but not the shock studs. I have had the machine shop makea few for me for several projects but not a regular stocking item.

 

[OlYellr]

Mine cracked down the vertical side and all the way across the bottom. I tacked the bottom until I have better access to the from lifting the 3/4 tub. I’m tempted by the RuffStuff kit, I still haven’t gotten a shipment notice from them. I’ll call tomorrow.

here is mine from the back side post welding...

can see where the rip went thought the bottom too (in red)..

 

[archie73]

So Part 1 of the frame repair is done. This will be on going with time allowed.

In order weld the crack, I had to remove the corner of the body mount bracket. Next I drilled a hole at the head of the crack. After notching crack, I did a root and filler weld. This made it safe enough to drive to work and get in the lift.

Once in the shop, I used the lift to pull the 3/4 tub up enough to weld in the frame braces. Note of caution 1” EMT is no strong enough to span the front

The frame plates from RuffStuff are a nice kit. With the condition of my frame it took a bit of fitting, but it seemed with in reason. The only dig I would give: the holes for the crossbar were not quite big enough to fit the provided 2” dom tube.

So here we are all primed and ready for black paint and reassembly.

The welding was interesting. I gave it as much cleaning and prep as I could. Even with the tub lifted a foot or so, positioning was tough. Removing the axle would have helped, but I was trying to negate additional downtime. For every inch of good bead I laid down, there was another two of strong but ugly weld. There was one area of thin metal that took even more effort.
The next steps that are necessary:

1. Triangulated brace for the spring hanger. I bought the RS hangers while I was at it. Still working on how I do this step.
2. Finishing the boxing out to the bumper. This complicated by twenty something me and the repair to the rear of the rusty frame. It’s ugly (but holding) and I think I want to tear it out and redo it.
3. I need to do wiring, brake and airline hold downs on the new section. I forgot to get some for the surgery. This will next, as I’m less then thrilled with the current zip tie solution.