Putting the Mojo Back in Bad Mojo (1 Viewer)

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Paul,

Did you ever find a beater car? I know someone selling a $1,500 1996 Maxima. High miles and fair condition but it runs well.

-Marc

I got your message about that and I am still looking at some right now. I hope to have this all figured out by the time I go back to school. Thanks for keeping an eye out for me.
 
FYI - It'll be going on Craigslist very soon so if you have even mild interest, I can get you the guy's phone number.
 
Slowly working on gathering up parts, and not as much as work on it as I wanted, but thats okay.

Looking to be building an engine cradle instead of a stand so I can hook more things up like the transmission and transfer case. For the people who have had a engine out is there anything that would working on it easier?

Looks like I will be ordering up engine isolators soon for this project.

I also picked up FJ62 knuckles, so I got to get those cleaned up ready and some new calipers. Looking forward to using all 60 tie-rod ends and having larger front disk. Want to get those set up before I do my power steering.

Going to also order in a new timing chain and do my pilot bearing. I know its a diesel, but any other basic maintenance before this gets installed.
 
... For the people who have had a engine out is there anything that would working on it easier? ...

pull all your fenders, hood, front bib and everything off. it should be bare frame. that makes getting in there and pulling the engine easier and less likely to hit something or forget to disconnect something.
 
Going to also order in a new timing chain and do my pilot bearing. I know its a diesel, but any other basic maintenance before this gets installed.

Point of order, sir.

Your 1HZ has a timing belt that turns the camshaft, driven by the IP. The IP is driven off of a gear on the crankshaft, with an idler gear in between.

When you order the T-belt, I might consider replacing the T-belt idler as well. I replace the idler on the 2LT-E when I replace the belt, because if the idler bearing fails, then so does the belt. I'll do the same on my 1HZ, but I may only replace the idler every other belt.

As an aside, I found that the recommended timing belt replacement interval is 100,000 kms (that's 62,137 miles) according to the FSM. It's referenced in the section about the timing belt warning light.

Dan
 
Point of order, sir.

Your 1HZ has a timing belt that turns the camshaft, driven by the IP. The IP is driven off of a gear on the crankshaft, with an idler gear in between.

When you order the T-belt, I might consider replacing the T-belt idler as well. I replace the idler on the 2LT-E when I replace the belt, because if the idler bearing fails, then so does the belt. I'll do the same on my 1HZ, but I may only replace the idler every other belt.

As an aside, I found that the recommended timing belt replacement interval is 100,000 kms (that's 62,137 miles) according to the FSM. It's referenced in the section about the timing belt warning light.

Dan

As always thank you for watching over my 1HZ.

Worked out sorting out power steering, and this is what I have got figured out.

I have a rebuilt FJ60 box from West Texas Off road, along with that I need to get a Borgeson universal joint so I can connect my column into a new intermediate shaft that comes from a FJ60 column. (Didn't want to use a 55 column because it adds an extra 1.5" to the column and I don't want the wheel in my chest.) That then connects to the box. From there I run all FJ60 tie rod ends because I picked up FJ62, which makes life much easier. I will however have to get two custom rods made up from Front Range Off Road. One will be 25 inches and the other will be the same length as a FJ40s tie road.

Couple questions.
1. Are FJ60 tie rod ends 23MM?
2. By getting custom rods jam nuts work as the clamps on the OEM ones?
3. Is the FJ60 cooler enough?
4. Anyone running a column bearing?
5. Steering damper mount to the frame do I use the 40s or a 60s?

Thanks.
 
As always thank you for watching over my 1HZ.

No problem.

Answers are inside your quote, but bold...
Couple questions.
1. Are FJ60 tie rod ends 23MM? 21mm I believe
2. By getting custom rods jam nuts work as the clamps on the OEM ones? They serve the same purpose--to lock the rods and TREs to length
3. Is the FJ60 cooler enough?
4. Anyone running a column bearing? Using the 55 column, which has a bearing
5. Steering damper mount to the frame do I use the 40s or a 60s? shouldn't need one, but not sure. 40 series, moved closer to center, and lowered an inch or so should work. Haven't crossed that bridge yet

Thanks.

Hope that helps. I can probably snap a picture or two for you in two days of the steering stabilizer issue...

Dan
 
Thank you much. Time to get to work.
 
I finally got my 1HZ up on a stand, so I can start cleaning it up, and it appears that a 1FZ motor mount will work. And I got my splitcase this weekend as well. I also found out I had broken alternator wire, which was causing some issues. Lastly, I got a daily driver, so once I fix the alternator wire the forty is going into the garage and the work shall begin.

1HZOnStand.jpg

BrokenAltWire.jpg
 
I guess that answers a few questions, eh?!
 
Sweet!
Time to make it all new again!!

Very much so, and I can't wait to dive into it more. Hoping I get another free today like this to make some progress. I plan on making some serious progress over spring break as well.

Daisy

I guess that answers a few questions, eh?!

Very much, so and it also tells me its time for a new wiring harness, especially by going with the diesel, because I can get ride of so much of it.
 
What's under the red boot? Is is just a standard ring or is there a plastic connector into the alternator?

Also, when you go to rewire I have a bunch of Weatherpack connectors left over from my project. You can have what ever you need and I'll loan you the Packard tool to set them right.
 
What's under the red boot? Is is just a standard ring or is there a plastic connector into the alternator?

Also, when you go to rewire I have a bunch of Weatherpack connectors left over from my project. You can have what ever you need and I'll loan you the Packard tool to set them right.

It is a standard ring, so a super easy fix. The plug is fine.

I will keep you mind when I start building my harness.
 
The engine looks good, Paul! We are excited for your project, and look forward to hearing all about it as you proceed.
 
The engine looks good, Paul! We are excited for your project, and look forward to hearing all about it as you proceed.

So am I. It has been a fun couple of days.

And an update for today.

I cleaned more of my 1HZ and started cleaning up my york compressor. It appears like it should mount up easily once I make it a bracket. There are several tapped holes in the block and head that I can use to attach the bracket. I am a little worried about the belts getting enough contact, so I might go out to the third pully ring. Further investigation needed.

I also turned over the engine by hand today and it turned over very easily. Lastly, I started taking apart the forty, which consited of me taking off the bumper. I can't take off too much because I need everything running as I clear up a couple electrical issues and then away we go with dismantling.

I have a question about the weather pack connectors. You used those everywhere there was a connection between harnesses, but at the actual ends because you need those to match the old Toyota parts? If thats the case did you buy or reuse the Toyota connectors? Thanks trying to get a solid handle on the harness.

Pictures

York
1HZYorkTestFit1.jpg


Last picture of it complete
LastPictureofitComplete.jpg
 
I have a question about the weather pack connectors. You used those everywhere there was a connection between harnesses, but at the actual ends because you need those to match the old Toyota parts? If thats the case did you buy or reuse the Toyota connectors? Thanks trying to get a solid handle on the harness. [/IMG]

I used the weatherpack in manyplaces. Since very little of what's under the dash or under the hood is original it didn't matter. If I was mating to a Toyota item, like the alternator, then I used the Toyota connector. Many of the connectors were just 1/4" spade terminals in the factory plastic connector. Toyota has since gone to another type of connector, and I'll bet they are available. Or, you can just do the old solder and shrink tube routine.
 
I used the weatherpack in manyplaces. Since very little of what's under the dash or under the hood is original it didn't matter. If I was mating to a Toyota item, like the alternator, then I used the Toyota connector. Many of the connectors were just 1/4" spade terminals in the factory plastic connector. Toyota has since gone to another type of connector, and I'll bet they are available. Or, you can just do the old solder and shrink tube routine.

Thanks for the information. I was able to find a list of p/n's for the connectors here. So it looks like a combination of weather pack and Toyota will be what I go with. Need to decided on whose wire I should. Coolerman sells a lot, but I also don't know if thats the best thing for me if I am building up a full harness. Thoughts

Toyota Wiring Connectors - Wire Harness Repair Manual RM1022E - Land Cruiser Tech from IH8MUD.com
Untitled Document
 
Just letting everyone know that I will be pulling my engine and front clip on the morning of March 12th it looks like around nine. Anyone is welcome to come. I am sure they will be some food around lunch. If you plan on coming plan on bringing wrenches and sockets because I only have my normal set. Already have an engine hoist, so I am good there.

If you need parts let me know let me know. My entire old drive train is getting parted out and sold to fund getting an H55. Some parts are already spoken for.

Will post up address as date nears.
 
Figures! I'll be riding back from San Antonio that day... probably come by Sunday.
 

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