I have a fuel pump shutoff that is pretty inconspicuous. As soon as I get my PS done, I have a GT Grant wheel going on. I'll get one of those quick disconnect kits for the wheel, and leave it on my key chain. :edit: Like the one Volunteer has.
bsevans, that thing is hardcore. It's kinda like a tire boot for your steering wheel.
Kill switches x uh 10. I don't think they have been tested, I've had my ash tray stolen when I had it parked with the top off...
I remember a post where the thief trashed the inside of the car because he couldn't steal it because the owner had a kill switch. And they say crime isn't personal...
For long-term parking get a matching coil wire that's not internally connected.
If someone wants it bad enough to tow it, none of the above are going to help. Anyone have battery backup on their alarm? Hood locks? Get a lojack if you want it back.
Collectors insurance sucks because you can't drive it much. It's not likely to get stolen out of your garage.
I had the cruiser evalutate for collectors car insurance, and a hidden kill switch. But i'd like to have something else, i mean something more. I'm not worried to get it stole here at my house since it is always in the garage. One other thing is i have the truck registered to someone else that live far away..lol...been told this is real good with thieve that will want the cruiser real bad.
I welded a 3/8th" loop on the underside of my steering column and then one on my clutch and my brake. I then ran a hardened steel chain through it and lock it up with a heavy duty master lock. So, i just park it in gear and then the clutch and the brake cant be used. and bolt cutters definitly cant cut through that chain. unless the thief has got a cut off wheel I'm safe.
I'll try to get pics tomorrow
Jim
I welded a 3/8th" loop on the underside of my steering column and then one on my clutch and my brake. I then ran a hardened steel chain through it and lock it up with a heavy duty master lock. So, i just park it in gear and then the clutch and the brake cant be used. and bolt cutters definitly cant cut through that chain. unless the thief has got a cut off wheel I'm safe.
I'll try to get pics tomorrow
Jim
I then ran a hardened steel chain through it and lock it up with a heavy duty master lock. So, i just park it in gear and then the clutch and the brake cant be used. and bolt cutters definitly cant cut through that chain.
I new a guy who had a 50,000 volt HEI coil hooked to the door handles on his Peterbuilt with a hidden switch to energize it. He said he accidently grabbed it once and it lit him on his rear.
I new a guy who had a 50,000 volt HEI coil hooked to the door handles on his Peterbuilt with a hidden switch to energize it. He said he accidently grabbed it once and it lit him on his rear.
i like this idea....but with a cruiser i dont think it would be very practical since the handles are pretty low and any soccer mom or little kid could touch it and end up on their a$$....
fast eddy...cutting wheels dont like hardened steel, ever try cutting a file with a angel grinder before annealing it?
pretty primitive but it works. i've manually made 2 thick metal pieces linked by a rod and from the other end a lock. this serves to clamp the brake and clutch pedal together. the tight area helps alot and makes the thief's task a million times harder. other than the alarm system, and the hard task of driving itself and the sound of the engine if turned on...... oh and no sleep at night.
find below a small sketch of what it looks like. be free to enhance
I swapped the knob on my stick shifter. I found one at a scap yard that is completely opposite of the stock one. It might even be for a colum shift. If anybody who is not used to the stock H42 they will have trouble getting it in the right gear or even reverse. I also put the 4wd and hi/lo shifter levers in neutral.
I tried the dremel route cutting that chain, it took a few minutes to brake through b/c the cut-off wheels kept grinding down and the are a pain to change. And like someone stated before if someone want to steal it that bad they will. I was also thinking something along the lines of what cruiserfreek showed, but I was using what I had on hand. When I have the time I will definitly be adding a cut off switch too, but I think this was a pretty cost effect deterent (about $40 total) and provided alot more issues then a club for a thief. But one thing is for sure every little bit helps. When I first got the car when i was 16 the ignition locked up and I managed to remove it and hotwire the truck without the faintest clue in about 10min. On another note, since the ignition switches are so damn simple on the early models i just used a boat ignition to replace the seized one for about $10. just some thoughts since I'm bored and have nothing better to do.
Jim
I have to agree with junglejim. A few weeks ago, my keyed ignition wire came loose on my starter. I left the key on the run position and just jumped a wire from the battery to the positive on the starter. Varooom. So for a thief and a big screwdriver that may be bent into an L for leverage, all they would have to do is bust the ignition switch on the column and leave it on the on position and jump the starter.
The best idea would be line locks or something that locks the wheels. Even if they wanted to move it onto a flat bed, it would be one heck of a racket.
Has anyone figured out a way to make the parking brake lock up so it can't be released. This would be for the handle parking brake that attaches to the T-case parking break liek on my 73. IF I could figure out a way to make it stay in place with a lock, they would never be able to move the thing.
Maybe drill a small hole through the shaft and stick a padlock through it so that it cannot be retracted?