Pros and Cons of FJ60 Front Swaybar

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I see alot of folks on here have just done away with theirs.

That helps it flex, right?

Does it hurt the road ride Characteristics? especially with a small lift?

Thanks.
 
it will ave more "rollover" when making turns. improves flex offroad though. the higher the center of gravity the more "rollover" it is likely to have (up till the springs flex all the way out or it simply flops)

it will ride the same except in turns. think of a sway bar like a torsion bar if you know how those work....
 
My stock leaved SOA HJ61 with no sway bar handles pretty bad, but My SOA FJ62 with OME springs with no front bar handles as good as stock springs with bar. On the HJ I ended up with both bars attached until I go wheel, but on the 62 I only run a rear which I remove to wheel.
 
I only notice a difference in how my truck handles with no sways hooked up when im really driving it into a corner, and even then its very stable. Ive kinda thought about selling mine.
 
The benefit of the sway bar is definitely affected by what springs you have. With stiffer springs, the bar doesn't do much.
 
I broke mine wheeling it (broke the sway bar link) and didn't notice and difference until i loaded it full of people, all their junk and a 2000lb trailer. It swayed really bad over 60mph, scary bad. Now i leave it connected until i go offroad.

All stock suspension btw. Dave
 
Mine has disconect pins onit so when I wheel i just disconnect it and have fun.I reconnect it when I get home or when I hit the road.If I don't disconnect it I will bend it all up wheeling with it.Plus I wouldn't have the articulation with one atatched. You really need one for the street.Get some disconnect pins for yours and you'lle be happy .
 
I have two 60s. On my FJ rockcrawler the sway bars have gone away. Better flex, etc. I did notice more body roll, in corners, and most of all in crosswinds on highway (hold on!). My HJ60 is an expedition rig. I have front and rear swaybars on this b/c of many highway miles and heavy roofrack. I just like the way it drives. FJ62s have front/rear sways like my '87 HJ60. Most people can remove the rear with little difference in performance and get better flex. If you offroad I would remove them, or create a dissconnect system that works for you.
 
So how do you do disconnect pins?

That sounds like the way to go for me. I want to be able to drive from Denver to Moab, then Wheel the heck out of Utah!
 
anyone making disconects? or is this a custom one?
Thanks
Jonathan
 
I think the disconnects are a great idea. I did a budget lift ($60) by adding 2 stock springs to the front packs and 4 to the rear. I also put some used rancho shocks all around and it sits nicely on 33" BFG's. With the sway bar attached I recently measured 4' of articulation on a ramp @ 4 wheel parts. Wonder what it would be with no front sway bar. Mine came stock with none in the rear.
 
I just finished a SOA, and while working the bugs out driving around town without shocks, but with the sway bar, I felt like I was driving a 60's cadilac. Once I put shocks on (rs5000) the wallowing stopped. It actually feels more like the OME lift I was running without shock. I tried driving with out the sway bar (we are going to Moab), and I didn't notice to much of a difference.

Long story short. I think good off-road shocks can make a big difference, but I will get back to you after some highway miles...
 
Anyone with some details on how to setup the disconnects on an fj60, please post. I am interested in where to buy any parts, or what needs to be done to fabricate so I can have my welding friends go to town. as much detail as possible would be great. I don't like to go into a project unprepared.
 
Looking at a couple of threads on this... What does an extension do??
 
The sway bar has an ideal orientation with respect to both the axle and the frame. When the truck is lifted, this orientation changes and the sway bar becomes less effective. The "extension" adds length to the sway bar connecting links to account for the lift.
 
Look in the tech section there is a whole write up and pictures on how to do it. When I did mine I just cut some small tubing and welded the upper washer to it, removed the nut and drilled a small hole at the point where their was tension on the bushings. Put in a hitch pin and you are done works well but sucks to put in when you've been in the mud. I finally took mine off and don't miss it.
 
I need some help too.

This is very timely for me. I'm going to be installing a new OME leaf spring kit on my BJ60.

I got the 004's for the fronts and the 005's for the rears. These are designated as heavy (004) and heavy with an added leaf (005) in the US. I got these because I have a diesel and the load I plan on putting on the pig.

With the package I got the OME shocks as well.

So, I'm expecting a pretty stiff ride. Most of the driving is unloaded around town, but there are about 4 weekends of the year that the pig gets really loaded down. 12' boat, all camping gear, wood etc.... all in all about 600-900 lbs is my guess (the boat weighs about 350 lbs).

So, I'm not much of a fabricator, but I have a friend who is also a cruiser nut who is and he will be helping me with the install of the suspension.

should I make the disconnects for both front and rear, take off the rear and front or only one or just leave it. I don't do much heavy wheeling (but that could change of course) so I too need some help.
 

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