Project - Not so Nice (1 Viewer)

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After reading up on the Orion install instructions here on MUD and as provided by Advance Adapters, while my case seemed to 'work' fine, it was not put together by whomever before me correctly (missing shift fork shaft set screw and no shim on the rear output bearing). With this in mind and my desire to not pull this combo again soon, I ordered a rebuild kit from Georg, complete with everything needed. Parts should be in Thursday.

Also ordered a new clutch disc as the current one has some gear oil staining on it.
 
Finished my rear crossmember sans paint...which looks like wont happen until Wednesday. Also might need to do some minor grinding to ensure the mount has zero chance flexing into one of the rear cover studs. Bolts would've been easier fitting but studs is mo better!













Might also add a couple gussets to the rear tcase cover mount. On the other hand I might just run it and see how well my welds hold.
 
Know that defeated feeling? Well, fill up a freshly rebuilt and resealed transmission to literally watch fresh gear oil leak from BOTH pto side covers. **** me, lol. I even waited a week for the anerobic sealer to cure.

I think the covers aren’t perfectly flat and did have some rust pitting. Hoping a pair of new billet covers from Novak will solve it.

Now I need to clean out a drain pan to catch the special sta-lube gear oil to reuse vs tossing 0 mile fluid. First world problems for sure...
 
Know that defeated feeling? Well, fill up a freshly rebuilt and resealed transmission to literally watch fresh gear oil leak from BOTH pto side covers. f*** me, lol. I even waited a week for the anerobic sealer to cure.

I think the covers aren’t perfectly flat and did have some rust pitting. Hoping a pair of new billet covers from Novak will solve it.

Now I need to clean out a drain pan to catch the special sta-lube gear oil to reuse vs tossing 0 mile fluid. First world problems for sure...

:censor::bang:

Exactly how I feel about my front crank seal. I'm living with it...
 
Also...I noticed a leak around the sender of the new oem tank I installed when building this truck. I figured it was some faulty gasket...nope. Tank builder was either asleep or inebriated when brazing the sender ring. ****ing s***....wish I saw this when I was painting, etc. Giving JB Tank weld a try to see if that works. If not then I guess I pulling it to take to the raleigh radiator shop for them to boil/clean/braze/pressure test a near new oem tank. :eek:o_O:mad::confused::bang:

D6F3E000-443D-4138-8183-8A942BBD5F83.jpeg
 
Installed a pair of the Novak billet pto covers with no gasket but with a bead of Permatex Right Stuff. Went conservative and let it dry for close to 24 hours (for JIC). Filled trans again with fluid. Zero leaks for the pto covers, sweet!

However, the mother ****ing front counter shaft bearing plate/cover is leaking. WTF? Didn't leak the first time. It can't be changed (2 of the 4 bolts are behind the bell housing) unless the trans is pulled, which would require pulling the seats I just installed, plus the gas tank, plus the tans cover plus the heater plus the driveshafts. I don't know if I have the desire to do that again. Maybe I'll just Jb weld the bitch on there....
 
Isn't there a skid plate that can catch the leak??? That's how I handle my speedo cable leak. Works great until I crest the driveway hill and it empties onto the street. Far easier for my simple mind to drop the skid twice a year to check/fill the fluid than to fix the leak. I mean, I'd have to figure out what a Speedi Sleeve is, what size I'd need, how to do it...ugh.
 
Isn't there a skid plate that can catch the leak??? That's how I handle my speedo cable leak. Works great until I crest the driveway hill and it empties onto the street. Far easier for my simple mind to drop the skid twice a year to check/fill the fluid than to fix the leak. I mean, I'd have to figure out what a Speedi Sleeve is, what size I'd need, how to do it...ugh.

Yeah that's what my previous solution was! It might end up being my solution again.

For your speedo leak, there are two o rings that can be changed and usually fix it. Unscrew speedo cable, remove retaining bolt, pop out speedo gear with pry bar, change o rings then re-install!
 
The transmission breather is working properly, correct? Wondering if it's plugged somehow, causing case pressure to rise and blow out seals. SM420 vents through the shift hole or through somewhere else?

FWIW, I've never had a leak with Hylomar, but I have with "right stuff". Hylomar is expensive, but my go-to for critical applications, even sealing metal-to-metal surfaces in the drivetrain without issue.
 
The transmission breather is working properly, correct? Wondering if it's plugged somehow, causing case pressure to rise and blow out seals. SM420 vents through the shift hole or through somewhere else?

FWIW, I've never had a leak with Hylomar, but I have with "right stuff". Hylomar is expensive, but my go-to for critical applications, even sealing metal-to-metal surfaces in the drivetrain without issue.

Good points.

I assume the breather is working as it should; however, even if it was not, it likely wouldn't have a negative implication as my leak currently is literally caused from pouring in fluid and the truck has not yet been driven. if the leak was caused from pressure build up I would expect it only to happen if there was pressure introduced to the trans...i wish I was lucky enough to suspect the breather as a contributing factor.

I have hylomar (the permatex equivalent actually) on hand but everything I read pointed to using either the 'right stuff' (i hear it can seal 2' holes in gas tanks - exaggeration for sure) or some sort of anaerobic sealer that cures with the absence of air AND contact to a metal service (like loctite 518 or permatix 51817).

My 'hunch' is the metal front counter shaft bearing cover is/was not perfectly flat and when installed and tightened (even at the inch pound setting specified and torqued to) caused the gasket and corresponding sealant/rtv to not adequately seal the entire cover. Also, 4 screws to seal a 6" diameter plate leaves decent surface area for distortion (when I over analyze it).

I ordered a billet cover (similar to the PTO covers I just installed) and guess I'll go ahead and work on removing the peices / parts needed to then push the transmission back a few inches to remove the cover and reinstall. I guess I could drain the trans, clean the lip around the plate with brake cleaner and slather on some rtv and see if that works but it seems so half assed at best.
 
If you're going to pull the retainer out, bring it over to the shop and we'll skim cut the back side to make sure it's perpendicular and flat, as compared to the nose. We probably should have thought of that before :lol:
 
If you're going to pull the retainer out, bring it over to the shop and we'll skim cut the back side to make sure it's perpendicular and flat, as compared to the nose. We probably should have thought of that before :lol:

Different retainer that is leaking. I'll get a pick. I likely won't move the transmission back far enough to pull the nose cone cover off. I think the likely hood of the nose cone cover you are referring to is not flat is low, with it being faily thick cast and machined piece. This countershaft bearing retainer is just stamped steel like the pto covers. Hindsight would've proved prudent to purchase the billet machined covers previously.
 
Using up my luck now! I was able to fill the small gap b/w the lip of the retainer plate and the transmission case with 'the right stuff' Let it dry overnight and refilled the trans this morning. <knock on wood> so far it has not leaked <\knock on wood> Maybe, just maybe this will work?!?!

Filled tcase with fluid and plan to give her a test drive tomorrow...unless the tcase leaks overnight :deadhorse:

The red line I drew in the pic below is where I added extra rtv. Also a pic of the fancy Novak billet pto covers.



 

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