Project - Not so Nice (6 Viewers)

[GLTHFJ60]

So the one ton axles are going in this 40, before you've even gone up Daniel in it? Should rename thread to "project: never really done"

Or wait, is that more appropriate for my moonshine thread

 

[S4Cruiser]

So the one ton axles are going in this 40, before you've even gone up Daniel in it? Should rename thread to "project: never really done"

Hahaha...accurate statement it appears!

Maybe - ‘Never wheeled’ would fit better...

 

[cruisermatt]

This thing is going to start looking like @Sputnik40 real quick.

 

[JohnVee]

Can somebody decipher WMS, SRW, etc for a moron, please? I'd like to understand what I'm following.

 

[74fj40]

WMS-is the over all width of the axle. Stands for wheel mount surface to wheel mount surface.
SRW- when talking about 1 ton trucks, they are single rear wheel or dual rear wheel.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Finally got these axles out of the back of my truck yesterday! They helped with added weight in the rear during the snow. I was hoping I could get them out with the lift but it didn’t have enough height...so I wrangled them out with an engine hoist.

Popped the rear 14 bolt cover to check gears and they are and odd ratio - 4.09. 45 teeth on the ring and 11 on the pinion (someone had scribed 373 on the ring gear with a dremel or something...guess they got the ratio wrong?) Carrier is also open...but I knew that already.

So...gear choice time. 4.88 or 5.13 or 5.38? Currently with 4.11s and 37s has me down shifting on even the slightest hills. If running 39s then maybe 5.13s? That would still have me at an acceptable rpm for the 2f @60mph.

 

[fourtrax]

5:13 will be a little more street-able then the 5.38. if you going to be cruising it match your tire size and gear ratio to the best engine rpm (think of the sweet spot in the cam) (4Lo.com :: Gear Ratio & Tire Size Chart) if your going to be mostly trails and crawling then you might go a little deeper in the gears.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

5.38s. Not a big difference between the two, so go deeper.

 

[S4Cruiser]

5:13 will be a little more street-able then the 5.38. if you going to be cruising it match your tire size and gear ratio to the best engine rpm (think of the sweet spot in the cam) (4Lo.com :: Gear Ratio & Tire Size Chart) if your going to be mostly trails and crawling then you might go a little deeper in the gears.

5.38s. Not a big difference between the two, so go deeper.

Thanks both! You answered my questions and confirmed my thought process...5.38s added to the list!

 

[74fj40]

I only have one question. Why not pull the 2f and use it for lemonade and go LS like you really want to

 

[S4Cruiser]

I only have one question. Why not pull the 2f and use it for lemonade and go LS like you really want to

You know...the thought has crossed my mind at least 5-6 times . I do have a lm7 pullout in my parts ‘stash’ but it’s earmarked for another build AND old yellar has a rebuilt f135 waiting for her!

If doing it again I’d definitely forgo the 2f for a small block. Hindsight is expensive!

Let’s be realistic here for a minute though. We all know I’ll build and install these axles, wheel it like .5 times and then link the front and then rear and then at that time I’ll revisit the ls swap.

 

[cruisermatt]

Why don’t you just use that 5.3 and those axles and build a buggy? That way you have your 40 driving while you build it, and you’ll have something you can really drive without care.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Why don’t you just use that 5.3 and those axles and build a buggy? That way you have your 40 driving while you build it, and you’ll have something you can really drive without care.

That’s way too rational for me to even begin to wrap my head around. LOL.

 

[cruisermatt]

you basically have 3/4 of the buggy already! You just need a 40 hood and bib and a 4L60, I know you have a splitcase and adapter already.

Oh yeah, and lots of tube

 

[S4Cruiser]

you basically have 3/4 of the buggy already! You just need a 40 hood and bib and a 4L60, I know you have a splitcase and adapter already.

Oh yeah, and lots of tube

I actually already have a new in crate 4l65e (monster build) and a 203 rangebox with Jerry Nichols (or Nicholson) adapter...first world decisions for sure.

 

[74fj40]

Actually @cruisermatt has a great point.... goatbuilt chassis are awfully appealing.

 

[cruisermatt]

I actually already have a new in crate 4l65e (monster build) and a 203 rangebox with Jerry Nichols (or Nicholson) adapter...first world decisions for sure.

Well if you’re going to put a splitcase behind an auto then ditch the 203 for sure (coming from someone who has a 203). 4:1 gears are the way to go, same reduction with less adapters, shifter, and longer rear driveshaft.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Well if you’re going to put a splitcase behind an auto then ditch the 203 for sure (coming from someone who has a 203). 4:1 gears are the way to go, same reduction with less adapters, shifter, and longer rear driveshaft.

I ‘think’ the length of a 4l60 with the advance adapters 50-0408A splitcase is very similar if not maybe longer then a 4l60 203 range box to splitcase. The 50-0408A is ~8” and the rangebox section of the 203 is what ~5”. Add another couple inches for the 203 to splitcase adapter and it’s close to a wash right?

I could very well be missing something though!

 

[S4Cruiser]

Did a rough list for front axle and rear axle parts/costs. My goodness, I knew it wouldn’t be cheap but talk about sticker shock, holy crap. Anyone want to buy a kidney?

My list doesn’t include disc brake conversion parts as I’m not sure which kit to use with a c&c axle and the solid industries 6x5.5 hubs. Also does not include front/rear calipers plus rotors. Add another 500ish to the total I’m guessing.

Decided on conversion hubs so I’m can use my current TR wheels...cheaper then buying new 8 lug ones and would likely need new srw hubs anyways.

Driveshafts will need to be modified too.

What else am I missing?

Front axle
Ruffstuff

• 6 lug hubs: 440
• Shock mounts: 18

Ecgs

• Gears 5.38: 368
• Install kit: 135
• Arb locker: 1060
• Kingpin bronze bushing: 95
• Kingpins (1 per side): 15 each
• Lower kingpin rebuild (1 per side): 55 each
• Wheel bearings (1 per side): 65 each
• Spindle bearings/seals (1 per side): 29 each
• Spindle nut kit (1 per side): 24 each

Wfo

• high steer arms: 335
• Tie rod & drag link plus ends: 340
• Ram assist mount: 40
• King pin tool x2: 10 each
• Shaft ujoints x2: 50 each
• Ubolt plate kit: 90
• Extra stud: 10
• Driver side perch: 15

Polyperformance

• PSC ram: 190 (sc2222k)

Summit:

• PSC pump: 209

$3791 total front

Rear axle
Ruffstuff

• 6 lug hubs: 400
• Ubolts x4: 12 each
• Shock mounts: 28

Ecgs

• shave kit: 330
• Master install: 195
• Wheel bearing kit x2: 65 each
• Gears 5.38 shaved: 300
• Locker: 536

Wfo

• pinion flange: 210
• Perches: 32

$1673 total rear

$5464 total

 

[jfz80]

Or just wheel it as is

What was broken again?