Project - Not so Nice (1 Viewer)

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Keeping on keeping on...few more things done.

Made mounts for front and rear air drops as well as diff breathers. Paints drying as I type. I've got a couple of the quick connect covers in the mail to help keep out dirt and s***.







 
:D


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Jon I'm going to be the jerk that points things out. I hope you don't take offense. I love this build. Your attention to detail is awesome.

Couple things I see. How are you going to drain the condensation out of the tank?

Also I know this is late since you already bought all the switches and fuse and relay boxes. But have you thought about using a switch-pro 8100? I like them because they are super clean, water proof, programmable with your phone and best yet you can use your phone to control everything.

Also the cut firewall grommets go cut side down. The braided loom is what we use. We buy it from Waytek.

Also you can run the amp meter if you want. The newer clusters are based on sensing resistance on the main charge wire out of the alternator. Using two longer coils of wire will give you less pull on the amp meter. 50amps will be 80amps but it wont matter. We usually just cut longer than we need and shorten it till it's at max draw. Volt meter is a good idea.
 
Brakes, brakes, brakes...the pre-bent stainless lines I got from CruiserCorps were mostly garbage so I salvaged what I could, which was 2 lines (that I essentially totally re-bent) and made new for the rest. Most expensive set of stainless tube nuts ever :bang:.






Splurged for this flaring tool...it makes flaring so simple and repeatable, even for a first timer like myself.


I had the same problem with CC on their prebent lines. They were not very close to the originals. Have the same flare tool. That thing rocks.
 
Jon I'm going to be the jerk that points things out. I hope you don't take offense. I love this build. Your attention to detail is awesome.

Couple things I see. How are you going to drain the condensation out of the tank?

Also I know this is late since you already bought all the switches and fuse and relay boxes. But have you thought about using a switch-pro 8100? I like them because they are super clean, water proof, programmable with your phone and best yet you can use your phone to control everything.

Also the cut firewall grommets go cut side down. The braided loom is what we use. We buy it from Waytek.

Also you can run the amp meter if you want. The newer clusters are based on sensing resistance on the main charge wire out of the alternator. Using two longer coils of wire will give you less pull on the amp meter. 50amps will be 80amps but it wont matter. We usually just cut longer than we need and shorten it till it's at max draw. Volt meter is a good idea.

No worries - I've got very thick skin and sometimes just as thick of a skull.

For the tank, I've got a drain plug on one of the bottom end plugs. It's not perfect, and isn't the lowest possible part of the tank but should work good enough especially when purging the tank if full of air.

Also with the tank being as far from the York and running the fill line through two separate filters, I'm not sure how much water will collect but I'm sure more than what I think.

Good point on the grommet...I was clueless :)

For the switch pro I was aware of them but honestly didn't even consider it. Now that I've got all the switches, some spdt and some spst I'll chalk it up and consider it for next time.

Regarding the ammeter don't I need some 50ohm gadget thingamabob to run in parallel? I don't have the oem piece and instead of searching for an aftermarket substitute I was just gonna leave it for looks. I'm all ears for what you think would work.
 
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Holy s*** that switch panel is 500 bucs! Also, @Trollhole - the quick reading I did mentioned on - off - momentary for switch function. Can they be made to function like a Spdt switch (on-off-on or on-off-auto) or would require the use of a Spdt relay to get this function? Say like for backup lights.
 
@S4Cruiser I can't wait to see this at Logan's Run!
 
Got the rear shock brackets mocked up and tacked into place. I had a pair of beefy lower mounts from ruff stuff but they required the mounting bolt for the shock to be parallel to the axle vs perpendicular. So I slightly modified them to work.

Need to finish weld and paint then I'm literally done with the suspension front and rear. Woohoo.





 
SWEEETTTT!!!!!
 
I've been diligently working when I have time...which hasn't been much with crazy work stuff lately.

Rear shock reservoirs mounted, seats and center console mounted, switches that I mounted in the center console wired with Deutsche plugs (lockers, carb fan, rear lights, compressor, usb charging plugs, volt meter, etc.).
 

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