Project Hundy Build Thread - 2000 UZJ100 Land Cruiser (Deathstar)

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I've heard that Kenwood has an updated 710 coming out next month with built in GPS...

Ryan mentioned that and for those radio shopping it sounds like a great unit. :cool: As I'm already invested in my 710 I think I'll be happy with this setup. I've got the GPS unit mounted behind the head unit so reception should be decent and has worked out thus far.
 
I'm heavily invested in d-star technology and with the Icom 2820's built in GPS etc, your location is sent out on every transmit. However, it does not have all of the digi repeaters that APRS has that allows your beacon to be sent around the world.... You have to be within range to a D-Star repeater which are a lot less common than standard APRS repeaters.

Either way, APRS is a great solution for off-roaders who are involved in search and rescue.... plus it's cool to play around with.
 
I'm heavily invested in d-star technology and with the Icom 2820's built in GPS etc, your location is sent out on every transmit. However, it does not have all of the digi repeaters that APRS has that allows your beacon to be sent around the world.... You have to be within range to a D-Star repeater which are a lot less common than standard APRS repeaters.

Either way, APRS is a great solution for off-roaders who are involved in search and rescue.... plus it's cool to play around with.

Agreed. I'm not that familiar with the D-Star features, I'll have to look into those. Thanks!
 
I suppose an update on the winch is in order too. As I mentioned in the original build planning, I opted to try the Warn VR10000 unit, reviews were great and quality looked on-par with Warn's reputation. The past few weeks have offered me a handful of opportunities (not sure if that is the right word :D) to use the winch. I was part of a group called the UCEIII, our goal was simply to drive from Utah's lowest elevation to Utah's highest elevation, nearly entirely on dirt. It just so happened Utah, particularly the southern half of the state was getting pounded with rain storms, washing away trails and roads throughout the region. We were in for some fun. Sure enough we found fun at around every corner, particularly that stretch above Panguitch in which we were attempting to get to Powell Point outside of Bryce National Park for the evenings camp. Not too far in we encountered our first washed out ravine, a ~6' deep section of road was washed ~3' deep. We did what we could in the rocky ground with shovels I opted to give it a go. Things went well for about 5 feet, time for the winch. We stretched out the line and attached it to a large tree up the road via a tree strap. A few quick tugs and my rear end was no longer hung up and out and we were on our merry way. The behemoth that is a 100 Series pushed and drug enough dirt to allow those behind me a near 'paved' experience :D The adventure didn't end there, we encountered numerous mud holes or washed out sections, if we were not winching we were digging and using the MaxTrax.

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Road paver and the winch
(Photo by Adam Tolman)

Fast forward to last weekend and I was en route from Moab to CruiserFest primarily on dirt with a group of 12 from across North America. We were not on the trail for more than an hour before we stumbled across a German tourist super stuck in a particularly wet section of the Blue Hills Road north of Moab. He was axle/fender depth mired and the road offered little in the way of traction for a snatch strap. Out came the winch. We were able to get ~100' away from him on a better section of road, we winched him every bit of that 100' and a bit more in order to get
him free of the mud's intense suction. Two thumbs up for the VR10000.

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Robert, the stuck German Tourist as we get set up for winching
(Photo by Mitch Massey)
 
Kurt, thanks for providing real trail experience with regards to the VR10000. I have a Warn 10k on my 80 and was planning similar for my "Hundy" (still struggling with that name...) so will most likely do the same. I've got an ARB bull bar with winch mount ready to throw on my 06 but needed to pick out the winch first. Talked with ARB and they told me that I need the spacer kit or the VR100000, so will have to grab that too.

Still need to deal with the stock AHC suspension however. Lots of suggestions on here about beefing up the AHC by adding new rear springs and torsion bars (I also pull a heavily modified offroad pop up trailer) versus ripping it out and going with an OME.
 
Kurt, thanks for providing real trail experience with regards to the VR10000. I have a Warn 10k on my 80 and was planning similar for my "Hundy" (still struggling with that name...) so will most likely do the same. I've got an ARB bull bar with winch mount ready to throw on my 06 but needed to pick out the winch first. Talked with ARB and they told me that I need the spacer kit or the VR100000, so will have to grab that too.

Hmmm, you shouldn't need the spacer kit for the VR10k, that is usually needed on 'feet-front' installs with the smaller winches.

Still need to deal with the stock AHC suspension however. Lots of suggestions on here about beefing up the AHC by adding new rear springs and torsion bars (I also pull a heavily modified offroad pop up trailer) versus ripping it out and going with an OME.

There have been some great discussions on ways to improve the AHC system... our preference here in the shop is to put them in a box and pull relays :D
 
Yea, I mentioned to the Warn folks (via email) that your thread mentioned using that model and not requiring the kit, but they held firm on their position. I guess I can just go ahead and buy it and worst case if I need it, I buy it.

Regarding the AHC, yes I am leaning toward ripping it out. My 4" OME on my 80 has been fabulous for the several years I've had it on (very reliable and a pretty decent ride all things considered) so reliability is not an issue. I'm thinking of the 3" OME heavy load as I'm going to bolt on so much after market stuff as I mentioned, plus towing my trailer (weights about 2000 - 2200 lbs or so).

I showed my wife the Death Star photos, and drilled in on the Helton hot water shower setup, and her eyes lit up, "did you order one yet??" Our last trip up in the Sierra's a few weeks ago was pretty cool and cloudy, so our solar shower never got hot, so taking a cold shower totally sucked. Will call you in the coming days to place my order.
 
Yea, I mentioned to the Warn folks (via email) that your thread mentioned using that model and not requiring the kit, but they held firm on their position. I guess I can just go ahead and buy it and worst case if I need it, I buy it.

The 1998-02 uses a different bumper than the 2002-07, but the design is the same as I recall... we've installed lots of each but I don't remember those details on a Sunday :D

The winch doesn't even mount to the front bumper as most ARB installs do. The spacer is required because in the feet-forward mounting applications on some bumpers, the winch motor and gear housing hit the wings of the bumper that taper back from the flat front portion, again not a remote issue as the 100 winches mount feet down to the subframe. All the spacer is going to do is lift your winch upwards? Unless I'm missing the fact the 02-07 bumper mounts feet forward?

Application guide doesn't show the spacer required either?
http://arbusa.com/uploads/PDF/accessorizeYourRig/toyotaLandCruiser100Lexus470.pdf

...I showed my wife the Death Star photos, and drilled in on the Helton hot water shower setup, and her eyes lit up, "did you order one yet??" Our last trip up in the Sierra's a few weeks ago was pretty cool and cloudy, so our solar shower never got hot, so taking a cold shower totally sucked. Will call you in the coming days to place my order.

I'll look forward to it :D

If you plumb it the same way I did, you won't need the temp-control-valve as your stock heater control valve will do the same thing. Simplifies plumbing/install and less cost too.
 
Let there be more light!

I've been absolutely thrilled with my IronMoose LED light bar but it is strictly a flood. While it offers fantastic light on slower trail conditions and as a flood at camp or during recovery... it didn't help my need for something out on the horizon. I have IPF lights on the front bumper and they had served me well, they are actually a combo set consisting of one flood and one spot. While the housings look near identical the lens and reflectors are different thus producing different light. With a single set of aux. lights in play, they were a great solution but as after adding the light bar on the rack, they lower flood became near obsolete and was literally drowned out by LED bar. The decision wasn't easy as the new ARB LED offerings are not tilted to the low end of the price scale however the technology is solid (built by Rigid) and I by far prefer the round light and easy fitment on my ARB winchbar. The ARB LED's are available in both a flood and spot configuration, as my flood needs are covered I opted for the spots. As I already had a high capacity light harness installed (OE IPF setup) I opted not to use the ARB LED specific harness rather I swapped connectors as my IPF's harness used a connector similar to a weatherpack and the LED's use a Deutsch connector. Beyond that it was a matter of swapping the lights themselves and plugging them in. Let me just say the initial testing is impressive. I still need to figure out a way to take some good night shots with the limited camera equipment/skills I have. I think they look right at home:

ARB_LED (Small).webp

ARB_LED (Small).webp
 
Subscribed. Did you ever change your gearing? What's your MPG with all the mods? Thanks.
 
Subscribed. Did you ever change your gearing? What's your MPG with all the mods? Thanks.

Nope, that is a winter project. It doesn't feel terribly underpowered in most situations but it could use some ooomph. I have a factory supercharger as a potential solution or the other option is re-gearing in which I'll do Air Lockers at the same time.
 
Let there be more light! I've been absolutely thrilled with my IronMoose LED light bar but it is strictly a flood. While it offers fantastic light on slower trail conditions and as a flood at camp or during recovery... it didn't help my need for something out on the horizon. I have IPF lights on the front bumper and they had served me well, they are actually a combo set consisting of one flood and one spot. While the housings look near identical the lens and reflectors are different thus producing different light. With a single set of aux. lights in play, they were a great solution but as after adding the light bar on the rack, they lower flood became near obsolete and was literally drowned out by LED bar. The decision wasn't easy as the new ARB LED offerings are not tilted to the low end of the price scale however the technology is solid (built by Rigid) and I by far prefer the round light and easy fitment on my ARB winchbar. The ARB LED's are available in both a flood and spot configuration, as my flood needs are covered I opted for the spots. As I already had a high capacity light harness installed (OE IPF setup) I opted not to use the ARB LED specific harness rather I swapped connectors as my IPF's harness used a connector similar to a weatherpack and the LED's use a Deutsch connector. Beyond that it was a matter of swapping the lights themselves and plugging them in. Let me just say the initial testing is impressive. I still need to figure out a way to take some good night shots with the limited camera equipment/skills I have. I think they look right at home:

Nice!
 
Update time!

The 100 has been serving me most splendidly, I've had it out on a dozen or so trips since my last update and each time I grow fonder of its cross-section of abilities and comforts. To further emphasize my absolute pleasure, I finally committed to selling my beloved Tacoma and it now resides with a new owner, more on that here. With nearly 180k on the clock and little service history beyond the minimal service records I could find in the glovebox, it was time for the 90k service including timing belt, water pump, thermostat, etc. I'm fortunate to have Toyota mastertech and 100 guru Will C. in my neck of the woods and was able to recruit him to rock-out the upkeep. He's done a grip of these services and makes quick work of the project. Thanks again Will :cool: During that same time, I did some minor maintenance on the front end, lower ball-joints, upper ball-joint boots and sway-bar bushings & front links as mine were hammered.

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Laying out the parts pre-install

With that behind me I had a few other modifications in queue including the installing the Front Runner fuel tank I had picked up from one of the employees at Proffits Cruisers. Jeremiah had mentioned to me that Bob won a 100 aux. tank at the Cruise Moab raffle and after a few calls I figured out that it was the 62L Front Runner gravity feed tank that was originally donated to the raffle several years earlier by Paul May of Equipt Expedition Outfitters. Paul was confident in the tank as a practical and reliable solution so Bob and I were able to work out a deal and get it out to Utah. There it sat on the shelf in the shop for nearly 9 months as other more pressing projects took priority, all until this weekend. I had a Saturday morning to spare and I was able to convince Olly (my shop tech) and Jake (one of my past employees) to come spend some quality time in the shop, they took the bait. Olly and I had previously reviewed the instructions and anticipated the project taking just a few hours. We were very wrong. Between a couple of missing parts and some shall we say 'lacking' instructions, it took the better part of the day on Saturday and a few hours this morning to finish it up. In the end the extra day worked out as I was able to get some good paint coverage on the parts. The stainless steel tank's original paint was flaking bad and the more I roughed it up with scotch-brite, the worse it became to the point 1/4 or more of the paint was gone. Between the scotch-brite, fine-grit sand paper and compressed air, I as able to get the failed paint off and start priming the bare areas with a self-etching primer. I applied a couple coats of primer and then 2-3 good coats of flat black paint. I'm less than optimistic that the paint won't blow back off with the pressure washer but at least I started with a fully painted tank and access is reasonable if I need to touch it up on occasion.

100_aux_tank_2.JPG

Prepping the tank for re-paint

The tank mounts in place of the factory spare tire carrier and includes provisions for lowering the stock tire carrier in the event you choose to run it. I've got my spare tire on the bumper and had taken off the factory tire winch and cross-member during the original build. So while I could have utilized a much larger tank, I weighed all the options in my mind and really 62L (16 gallons) is going to work out well for my needs. Additionally, I won't be too much weight to the already heavy rear end or losing any ground clearance. A full aux tank and the additionally weight of the tank itself is roughly 150 lbs, well within the load capacity of my current springs given I'm now going to carry two less 20L Scepter fuel cans. If I find myself wanting for more fuel in the future, Long Range has a 160L auxiliary tank.

100_aux_tank_6.JPG

8.5mm hole in the factory main tank

100_aux_tank_7.JPG

Balance fitting in place

Mounting the tank was straightforward but required we clean out and re-tap 4 holes in the bottom of the body, one of which is directly above a frame cross-member leaving very little room to access the hole. The part of the project that took the most time was plumbing, more specifically adding a balance line into the lower portion of the stock tank. Front Runner includes a specialized fitting made for this application and the instructions state that it must be inserted from the inside of the tank and secured on the outside with a nut. However the inlet of the factory tank as a spring loaded 'flapper' 6-8" down the tube so even trying to fish it through with a wire proved impossible. Perhaps the non-US diesel tanks don't have the flapper and thus the lack of detail in the instructions? We ended up pulling the entire inlet/vent assembly from the tank by removing 6-7 8mm bolts and carefully separating the gasket. With that removed we had better access and could fish some bailing wire and glide the fitting it place. In hindsight, I'd likely drop the entire tank which would provide easier and safer access. We cut the factory fuel neck as directed by the instructions even adding a 1" or more of 'cushion' room as a second cut is always easier then too short. However when we went to test fit the filler system, the provided hoses were not going to work as they were shorter than the instructions part list specified which was already 1/2" shorter than we wanted ideally. It simply wasn't going to work. Fortunately NAPA had a 12" section of fuel fill hose in stock and we were back on track, thanks for making a quick parts run Jake! Somewhere along the transport, one of the mounting brackets for the tank came up missing. Its design wasn't anything difficult to duplicate but it took some time to recreate the bracket using our sheet metal brake and weld gussets into place for a near identical mount. With that behind us we went back to watching paint dry, literally. :D

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Reproducing the the tank bracket

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Painted to match

This morning we were ready to rock and roll and in just a couple of hours we had the tank mounted, finalized the plumbing and were cleaning up tools. Thanks again for spending a couple of your days off helping Olly :cool:

100_aux_tank_5.JPG

Tank paint completed

I drove the Cruiser out of the shop and off to the first big fill, adding ~32 gallons before the machine clicked off at $100. :D I considered adding a few more to fully top off the tank but figured if there was a leak or and issue with the system, I'd rather have as little as possible to remove. I ran a few errands with it this afternoon and at each stop inspected the connections for any signs of leaking, so far it is bone dry. I'll go ahead and top off the tank tomorrow and again continue checking for any system leaks.

I am a bit worried about the proximity of the tank to the exhaust pipe, if nothing else the paint will fail and the cushion material between the tank strap and the tank might get baked? I'll likely fab up a little heat shield to help protect the tank. I'm headed out on a long road trip with a fair amount of bombing down dirt roads, it will be a great time to see just how hot the tank gets near the exhaust.

100_aux_tank_8.JPG


The biggest con, the total cost at the fuel pump :D
 
how fast it's the gravity feed in to main tank .. ? if that's ever worth to take in consideration .?

Faster than the motor can burn it :D

Basically the entire sub-tank is higher than the mid-line of the main tank. So, the sub-tank should be near empty by the time time the main tank is still at full, and 100% empty before the main tank hits 3/4 tank. I ran errands with it today, still sitting above full. Test will be this week as I'm headed to KOH and have 1500 miles to drive before the weekend is over.
 
Been reading a little of your thread the past two days, starting from the beginning. Awesome vid, and I love the teamwork and planning that has gone into this project. Great job!
 
yeah you got to mention your heading to KOH .. lucky you .. !

And you know I would have picked you up from the nearest airport. Next year I shall expect you :D

Been reading a little of your thread the past two days, starting from the beginning. Awesome vid, and I love the teamwork and planning that has gone into this project. Great job!

Thanks, it has been quite a fun project both in the build and more so out in the wild using it.
 
Where did you get those labeled button switches?

Those are beautiful!

Here is how I made my switch plate above my head to house my light switches. Back up, spots, rock lights and camp lights. Room for two more, but probably leaving blank. I don't want to put lockers/winch switches or such up there as it is easy to mix up with the lights. At least if hitting the wrong light switch I won't engage a locker at 70 miles an hour on the highway.
 
As crazy as this sounds, the aux. fuel tank is proving to be one of my favorite mods thus far. Obviously it doesn't make driving X miles any cheaper, I mean one can argue they fill-up a little cheaper and less often, what it does do is save time and time does equal money. I ran down the the Swell a few weekends ago, filled up in Green River, ran home camping through the Swell and still had a full tank when I got to the bottom of Spanish Fork Canyon :D

Now, back to mods for the hundy. During our quick Swell trip, I pulled a total rookie move landed on a control arm. I was making a 3-pt turn and rolled a rear tire up on top of a rock, wasn't centered up on it perfectly and I slid down, landing on my control arm with a heavily laden 100. All 4 tires were firmly on the ground but it was just enough anchor to require a quick tug. Low and behold I bent the control arm so it was time for an upgrade. It just so happens Old Man Emu released control arms for the back of the 80/100 Series recently and I had a set sitting on the shelf :D

Swap was super easy, 4 bolts. It literally took more time to pull it in the shop than it did to swap them.

The 'incident':

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The aftermath:

IMG_5386 (Small).webp

Stock on top, bent in the middle and the new HD model on the bottom. While the HD unit is actually a slightly smaller diameter, it's solid HD metal and uses poly bushings and a sleeve versus the stock rubber bonded style.

The finished product:

IMG_5387 (Small).webp

1798449_10151921069822097_1194880664_n.webp


IMG_5386 (Small).webp


IMG_5387 (Small).webp
 

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