I had bought 2 quarts. And I was able to do the axles as well. It's surprising how it does go a long way. I know I wasted some getting it in the frame. I didn't find a cheap place to get it.. I think even wally world is carrying it now.
Builds Project 2027: 1977 FJ40 Rebuild
- Thread starter Jetlander
- Start date
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Depends how you remove the rivets. If you're drilling each one or torching each one out it would be a killer amount of work. With a big air hammer, I found it takes about 20 seconds per rivet. It just blasts them right out.
- Thread starter
- #83
I should be taking delivery of a new 60 gallon compressor this week sometime. I spend a lot of time in hotels (105 days this year just in Marriotts alone) and I redeemed my points for $800 in Lowe’s gift cards. Hence the new compressor. Anyways... what kinda beast air hammer can shear off and pound a rivet outta the frame in 20 seconds? I need!
Front crossmember before:
And after:
Managed to get the PO’s contraption out with no additional damage than what he caused putting it in. I smoothed all the edges that I could get to and rounded the hack job he did on the bottom of the crossmember. Once I receive the steering box mounting kit from Georg I’ll fabricate a patch to re-strengthen the area.
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I use a Ingersoll rand 118 max. I got a used one off of eBay for 50 bucks. I use a good chisel bit and shear off the head, then use a beefy bit with a point on the end and push it out. Takes 2 or 3 rivets to get the hang of it.
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
Ouch, that front cross member is rough. We've seen this a few times over the years. But with some proper fab work it's definitely fixable!
Thanks for the order and for sending business our way, I appreciate it!
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
Thanks for the order and for sending business our way, I appreciate it!
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
- Thread starter
- #86
It’s been awhile since I’ve posted, however the work on the Cruiser continues. Been cleaning undercoating and rust off of the frame to include removing the rear spring leaf hangers to replace. Today however I focused on fabricating a frame patch to fix the massive mess the PO had made of the front crossmember.
Before...
And after...
The only part that looks non-OEM is the weld on the top against the frame. The PO had cut out too much of the crossmember and I didn’t have enough to weld to. I’m sure it’ll be hardly noticeable once the bib is back on.
I used 1/8” plate which seems to be what the frame crossmember thickness is.
Before...
And after...
The only part that looks non-OEM is the weld on the top against the frame. The PO had cut out too much of the crossmember and I didn’t have enough to weld to. I’m sure it’ll be hardly noticeable once the bib is back on.
I used 1/8” plate which seems to be what the frame crossmember thickness is.
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- Thread starter
- #87
Most of the frame work involves removing the old undercoating. However both rear spring hangers and body mounts were in such bad shape, with rust, that I cut them off. Managed to score OEM replacements from @pardion I will bolt the replacements on and then weld them to insure against moisture getting underneath in the future.
Before...
After...
I’m waiting to finish the top rail before I’m able to flip the frame and remove the bottom bracket. After the top is done I’ll do knuckle rebuilds before pulling the axles from the frame. Figured it would be easier to work on while they’re still attached.
Before...
After...
I’m waiting to finish the top rail before I’m able to flip the frame and remove the bottom bracket. After the top is done I’ll do knuckle rebuilds before pulling the axles from the frame. Figured it would be easier to work on while they’re still attached.
- Thread starter
- #89
Most of what you’re seeing on the unfinished portion is old undercoating. To remove the rust I’m very lightly, and I stress lightly, using an angle grinder. It’s slow tedious work, but the results show. I wanted to get all the shallow rust pitting out before blasting, basically to make the frame as uniform as possible. Plus, the damn rubberized undercoating would take forever to remove with a blaster. The media would just bounce right off.
greenbeasty
SILVER Star
Awesome progress, keep up the motivation!
Starting a build of my on, and will be watching yours close.
Starting a build of my on, and will be watching yours close.
- Thread starter
- #93
Had all the safety gear on...goggles, earplugs, leather gloves, and welding coat. Nothing on my neck.
It was a freak kickback. Feels like road rash.
greenbeasty
SILVER Star
That pic made my nuts draw up! Could have been so much worse. Glad it was not.
Oooooh crap. Made my tail pucker.
I can't tell from the picture if that grinder has a handle attached on the other side. It can be slightly restrictive but really helps keeping those things from twisting out of your grip when they torque on you.
Glad you're ok.
Glad you're ok.
- Thread starter
- #97
It doesn’t. I found that holding the handle has caused me to twist the grinder in all kinds of funky angles that are probably more dangerous. I’m very safety conscious and wear all the things. But apparently today wasn’t my day.
I was cleaning up the inside frame by the center crossmember and there is an exhaust bracket there... well, long story short, I bumped it by mistake and it torqued the damn grinder right out of my hand. My neck was the only thing exposed.
I'm seriously considering a sandblasting kit for upcoming projects at home. That's a lot of grinder work - going through the whole frame like that.
Sounds like you're cautious and just got caught in a fluke. Still, I can't help but recommend that handle.
Sounds like you're cautious and just got caught in a fluke. Still, I can't help but recommend that handle.
- Thread starter
- #99
I know, I know.I'm seriously considering a sandblasting kit for upcoming projects at home. That's a lot of grinder work - going through the whole frame like that.
Sounds like you're cautious and just got caught in a fluke. Still, I can't help but recommend that handle.
I have a sandblaster and 60 gallon compressor. However, there is a lot of old rubberized undercoating on the frame, that and some shallow rust pitting. The undercoat would really slow things down with the blaster. I’m trying to smooth things out a bit before blasting. But yes, it’s a ton of work. Almost done though!
