Keep it Mustard. Don't know if you've seen this thread. He did this trip in his 80. Epic thread in the 80 section.
DMC South America Expedition and ROTW write-up
DMC South America Expedition and ROTW write-up
Build Project 2027: 1977 FJ40 Rebuild
- Thread starter Jetlander
- Start date
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I agree!! It would be the trip of a lifetime! Keep us up to date on details, I'm more than interested!! And I agree with others, that's a nice base of a 40 to start with! Congrats.
1MOA
SILVER Star
Wow your ride is in better shape than mine was when I got mine. Keep posting updates.
Nice project, looks like a great adventure for the next 9 or 10 years.
Is your tub still attached to the frame with that rear sil?
Is your tub still attached to the frame with that rear sil?
- Thread starter
- #25
There are some PO improvised brackets welded to the patch. It's attached, but it's ugly. Not to worry though as the tub is being replaced with an Aqualu 3/4 tub. I'm trying to reduce the affects of future rust as much as possible in the future. I'm planning to drive this ol' girl to the end of my days. So thinking forward a bit, the rebuild will be a blend of the dependability of Toyota, and the modern conveniences of today. Air conditioning is a MUST here in TX. I'm also planning to add charging points on the dash and some sort of bluetooth capability for music.
- Thread starter
- #26
- Thread starter
- #27
The PO’s workmanship was sketch, but this takes the cake... While removing the drivers side seat I found this gem 
as the rear seat mount bolt. Good thing I hadn't been an accident. I'm sure I will find plenty of surprises during the teardown but hopefully this is the most shocking.
as the rear seat mount bolt. Good thing I hadn't been an accident. I'm sure I will find plenty of surprises during the teardown but hopefully this is the most shocking.- Thread starter
- #28
Once the tub is removed, the drivers side foot well will require the most rust repair. The windshield frame has some blistering rust but the cowl, hood, and fenders are more or less rust free. At least I think so...
One question. I've done a emissions delete but I left the charcoal canister. The fuel separator hose connector labeled #3 is broken. Is this part required if I remove the charcoal canister? Or can I cap off the lines?
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You could probably still get a couple hundred bucks for that old steel 3/4 tub. Thats in great shape comparatively for most east coast cruisers.
- Thread starter
- #30
True. Until I remove it I won't have a full idea of the scope of the rust. I do know there is plenty of bondo in it, but compared to most it's probably not that bad. The hard top rail lip even has bondo. Most rebuilds that I've seen here generally start with at least that being salvageable. Not sure if mine is.
Very well said! That pretty much sums up what I have been trying to accomplish on my build. What drivetrain upgrades are you planning on? Keeping the inline 6?
- Thread starter
- #32
The drive line will be more or less left unmolested. I did a compression test the day before I started the teardown to see where exactly the engine is health wise. Here are the numbers, which indicate at some point the engine was overhauled as I was under the impression factory compression was 160.
#1 - 160
#2 - 155
#3 - 165
#4 - 160
#5 - 160
#6 - 160
So from my perspective the engine is in great shape. It runs solid and the numbers prove the same. The oil pan leaks as well as the rear main seal, so I will get a gasket kit and replace all the gaskets that don't require me to open the engine up too much. Granted the Cummins 2.8 that's not out is very intriguing, but at $10,000 it a bit more than I would spend with a perfectly good 2f under the hood. When, or if, the engine ever decides to give it up, then I'll probably make the jump into the diesel world.
- Thread starter
- #33
I might bite the bullet and send the gearbox and transfer case out to Georg at Valley Hybrids though for a thorough going through. The oil I drained out of each when I bought it, left me a bit less than pleased. I'm certain there are hidden demons in both waiting to surprise me.
I've bought two in the last 3 1/2 years with no major issues that bit me in the ass. I'd like to think it's because I've accumulated enough experience over the years to make savvy decisions, but sometimes I do wonder if I've got a guardian angel watching over the purchase. 
- Thread starter
- #35
So after day two of disassembly things are going fairly smoothly. Most likely another hour or so and I think the engine will be more or less stripped and ready for removal...once I find an engine hoist, that is...
My attack plan on reassembled is to mark literally every part, nut and bolt. I have the bags broken down into vehicle sections for now, but I’ll eventually sort the parts by what needs to be done to them. I’ll have a box for powder coat, blast, paint, and replace.
PO had about 10-15 standard sized nuts and bolts hidden throughout. Those will be replaced with metric when the time comes, even if I have to retap everything.
My attack plan on reassembled is to mark literally every part, nut and bolt. I have the bags broken down into vehicle sections for now, but I’ll eventually sort the parts by what needs to be done to them. I’ll have a box for powder coat, blast, paint, and replace.
PO had about 10-15 standard sized nuts and bolts hidden throughout. Those will be replaced with metric when the time comes, even if I have to retap everything.
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- Thread starter
- #36
So one of the biggest challenges on this rebuild is going to be fixing the disaster the PO created with the PS. The cuts and welds to the crossmember are horrendous and sketch as sketch can get. The steering box is mounted at an angle, and the mounting plate is welded on. I see lots of cutting and grinding in my near future.
The genius of mounting the PS pump bracket into the manifold mount... Now I’m going to have to helicoil. I have a new bracket that I ordered from @JTOutfitters that’ll be a much nicer setup.
Not sure what was broken off the front of the left engine mount. Looks like the PO hit it with a BFH.
Anyways, I’m thinking the entire steering wheel shaft setup needs to be replaced. Each joint has lots of play and once the steering box is mounted properly it’ll be easier to start fresh than try to reengineer this concoction, at least in my mind. Any advice would be appreciated by those who’ve done this. Should I source new steering components, or try and salvage this?
The genius of mounting the PS pump bracket into the manifold mount... Now I’m going to have to helicoil. I have a new bracket that I ordered from @JTOutfitters that’ll be a much nicer setup.
Not sure what was broken off the front of the left engine mount. Looks like the PO hit it with a BFH.
Anyways, I’m thinking the entire steering wheel shaft setup needs to be replaced. Each joint has lots of play and once the steering box is mounted properly it’ll be easier to start fresh than try to reengineer this concoction, at least in my mind. Any advice would be appreciated by those who’ve done this. Should I source new steering components, or try and salvage this?
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- Thread starter
- #37
Received my quick hinges from @69LC. If you’re interested in being able to quickly take your doors on and off then this product is for you. I’ll post some pics in the morning. The weld quality is top-notch.
Quik Hinges are back!
They are super nice and I can’t wait to bolt them on. Managing to create a stash of new parts for the rebuild.
Quik Hinges are back!
They are super nice and I can’t wait to bolt them on. Managing to create a stash of new parts for the rebuild.
Left lower engine mount is where the Alternator sits on early models.
clint
clint
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If you have to redo the entire PS system, maybe patch the frame and crossmember back up and use a 60 or scout II box.
- Thread starter
- #40
Still working to get the engine ready to pull. Brakes lines disconnected, engine bay wiring harness disconnected, and all major components removed from the block.
I do have one question about the exhaust manifold though. I noticed after I removed it that there is white residue from the #2 & #3 cylinders. It’s not present in any of the other ones. Should I be concerned?
I do have one question about the exhaust manifold though. I noticed after I removed it that there is white residue from the #2 & #3 cylinders. It’s not present in any of the other ones. Should I be concerned?