Builds Project 2027: 1977 FJ40 Rebuild

[Jetlander]

Try to use your stock tubs Trans tunnel on your aqualu. It will take some extra fabrication and work but will be worth the effort in my opinion. The aqualu tunnel is bulky.

Initially I was going to use the Aqualu tranny hump, but after looking at them, I’m not that impressed with the look. I’ll hold on to mine and make a decision when I come to that point in the build. Thankfully, mine has little to no rust. I know there are a few threads on MUD about mating the two, so I’ll have to look at it closer.

 

[Jetlander]

So this particular area of the frame is what pushed me to do the frame-off. The drivers side rear spring, forward mount is in rough shape. The rust has scaled a ton on the spring mount, especially in between the bracket and frame portion; splitting the two a part. I’m not sure exactly how to tackle this issue. Ideally I’d like to cut it all out entirely and replace it with new mount and bracket. So far I’m not sure if, or who, makes a replacement. The passenger side is in far better shape, but if I can find replacements, I’d replace both. So what’s the best avenue of approach?

 

[Jetlander]

or also i buy here.

Connector Kits by Number of Ways | Corsa Technic

everything you need

Thanks for the information. Now I have more stuff to add to my shopping list. The Big Brown Truck might as well add me into his GPS under favorites, as he going to get plenty of work from me. May even have to buy him a Christmas gift.

 

[White Stripe]

Personally for the frame I would go either 2 routes. Get s good used frame-like 500 bucks and will maybe just need sandblasting and painted. Or see what kinda deal aqualu will cut u on a new frame they build since your getting a tub. Typically they are 2000. To me frames aren't worth enough to bring back from the dead. Which to me yours is dead with that rot.

 

[Jetlander]

I'm torn because this is literally the only place on the frame with rust issues. The rest is in fairly good shape. I'd hate to replace the entire frame for one problem area. Losing the VIN isn't that big of a deal for me (I'm not worried about resale), but I would like to keep the bones of this Cruiser if at all possible.

 

[fjdiesel]

Here is what I did. Mine looked about the same. I boxed in the rear with the RuffStuff kit. And sandblasted, epoxy primed, then reinforced the spring mount. I did the 10in stretch Aqualu tub. You can see my stretch in the photo.

 

[Jetlander]

Here is what I did. Mine looked about the same. I boxed in the rear with the RuffStuff kit. And sandblasted, epoxy primed, then reinforced the spring mount. I did the 10in stretch Aqualu tub. You can see my stretch in the photo.

View attachment 1577972

That's what I'm talking about! Very nice. Did you fabricate the new spring perches, or are those the originals?

 

[fjdiesel]

Those are RuffStuff as well. I went with fj60 springs(and axles) front and rear. Just because I had a 60 for parts. If you order the perches from RuffStuff, make sure you order the correct width for your springs. And you will not use the factory spring pin anymore either. Once you box in the rear and beef up the perches it will be way stronger than it was from the factory!

 

[fjdiesel]

That's what I'm talking about! Very nice. Did you fabricate the new spring perches, or are those the originals?

I'm thinking it will be strong enough to do the 13,000mi from Prudhoe Bay to Ushuaia, Argentina!

 

[Jetlander]

I'm thinking it will be strong enough to do the 13,000mi from Prudhoe Bay to Ushuaia, Argentina!

Absolutely! I talked to Georg @orangefj45 at Valley Hybrid and he’s going to see about sourcing some OEM replacements, perhaps off of a donor frame. In the event he can’t, I talked to RuffStuff today about a game plan to replace them.

 

[Jetlander]

A lot has happened since my last post. I managed to get the engine pulled and put onto the stand.

So now to addressing frame issues. Besides the rear spring mounts, the half-@ss Saginaw conversion done by the PO is starting to show its ugly head. The front crossmember was completely and utterly a hack job. It’s a mess. But I’m determined to keep the frame and I have seen the magic other MUD members have done on frames that were in FAR worse shape. Regardless, I have my work cut out for me. I see many hours of cutting and grinding in my future. I’ll be ordering a new Saginaw bracket mount from @orangefj45 today, along with a complete knuckle rebuild kit.

 

[White Stripe]

A lot has happened since my last post. I managed to get the engine pulled and put onto the stand.
View attachment 1582887 View attachment 1582890

So now to addressing frame issues. Besides the rear spring mounts, the half-@ss Saginaw conversion done by the PO is starting to show its ugly head. The front crossmember was completely and utterly a hack job. It’s a mess. But I’m determined to keep the frame and I have seen the magic other MUD members have done on frames that were in FAR worse shape. Regardless, I have my work cut out for me. I see many hours of cutting and grinding in my future. I’ll be ordering a new Saginaw bracket mount from @orangefj45 today, along with a complete knuckle rebuild kit.

View attachment 1582893 View attachment 1582894 View attachment 1582895

That's really bad

 

[Jetlander]

Nothing that can’t be fixed with a bit of determination and a welder, though. I figure once I get the mount kit from Valley Hybrid I’ll be able to determine what needs to be done to strengthen the crossmember.

I’m going to sandblast the frame myself. I’m leaning towards POR15 but I’m concerned about good coverage inside the boxed portion of the frame. The other option would be to galvanize the entire frame and then paint it myself.

 

[fjdiesel]

I blasted and POR15'ed my frame also. I sprayed the POR15 on right away after blasting. I had to thin it a little and I used a big nozzle primer gun. And I was able to spray into the holes in the frame. Then just ground it off in the few spots I had to weld. Then after I got things repaired I sprayed it with epoxy primer and painted with a single stage urethane black paint. We have a ton of humidity up here. So I had to get something on the frame ASAP or it would be orange. I don't know how your humidity is down there, maybe you can wait and do it all at once.

 

[Jetlander]

I blasted and POR15'ed my frame also. I sprayed the POR15 on right away after blasting. I had to thin it a little and I used a big nozzle primer gun. And I was able to spray into the holes in the frame. Then just ground it off in the few spots I had to weld. Then after I got things repaired I sprayed it with epoxy primer and painted with a single stage urethane black paint. We have a ton of humidity up here. So I had to get something on the frame ASAP or it would be orange. I don't know how your humidity is down there, maybe you can wait and do it all at once.

I used to live in Minnesota and compared to Houston, you guys have it easy! So how did you get the inside of the boxed portion. I know with all the holes that hitting the outside rail wouldn’t be an issue, but I’m thinking about the inside portion of the boxing frame... Does that make sense?

 

[White Stripe]

Galvanizing is surprisingly inexespensive. Have you thought about splitting the frame pieces to do your repairs and remove rust? You could galvanize the pieces individually then or paint and then reassemble.

 

[fjdiesel]

Galvanizing is surprisingly inexespensive. Have you thought about splitting the frame pieces to do your repairs and remove rust? You could galvanize the pieces individually then or paint and then reassemble.

That would probably be ideal. But a whole ton of work!!!

 

[fjdiesel]

I used to live in Minnesota and compared to Houston, you guys have it easy! So how did you get the inside of the boxed portion. I know with all the holes that hitting the outside rail wouldn’t be an issue, but I’m thinking about the inside portion of the boxing frame... Does that make sense?

I didn't know it got that humid down there!!

I had a friend of mine sandblast mine and he did a great job getting in the boxed part thru the holes like you said and down the end of the frame. And when I POR15'ed it I did the same. Turned the spray gun to a stream and sprayed as deep as I could get. And took my time. I had a sore arm and wrist for sure from all the angles tryinig to get the stuff to spray! My frame was getting pretty bad also. A little thin in a few spots, but after I have boxed in the rear, added another cross member(because I stretched it 10in.) And beefing up the spring perches, I have no worries that it will out last me now. It's hard to explain, but you can get in there a long way and get the sides and the top and bottom. Just takes time.

 

[Jetlander]

Ooof! I’ve read about guys doing that but dang, that’s pretty hardcore in my book...what a job!

The only rust on the frame besides minor surface pitting is located on the drivers side rear leaf spring hanger that I posted pics of earlier. Plus the rear angle braces, which I’ll be replacing. Ordering the rear braces from Cruiser Solutions. Once those two problem areas are fixed the frame will be ready for blasting/galvanizing.

Galvanizing is surprisingly inexespensive. Have you thought about splitting the frame pieces to do your repairs and remove rust? You could galvanize the pieces individually then or paint and then reassemble.

 

[Jetlander]

I didn't know it got that humid down there!!

I had a friend of mine sandblast mine and he did a great job getting in the boxed part thru the holes like you said and down the end of the frame. And when I POR15'ed it I did the same. Turned the spray gun to a stream and sprayed as deep as I could get. And took my time. I had a sore arm and wrist for sure from all the angles tryinig to get the stuff to spray! My frame was getting pretty bad also. A little thin in a few spots, but after I have boxed in the rear, added another cross member(because I stretched it 10in.) And beefing up the spring perches, I have no worries that it will out last me now. It's hard to explain, but you can get in there a long way and get the sides and the top and bottom. Just takes time.

No doubt. How many gallons of POR15 did it take to complete, and did you find a cheap supplier?