Procedure for replacing 100 series(98 and up) starter contacts (1 Viewer)

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I was thinking the same thing. My first thought was maybe a zip-tie of some sort. I really didn't want to start pulling wires out and stuff like that. I will look into the Marine shrink wrap. Thanks!!
 
I'm wondering if a small hose clamp would work to keep those connected? :hmm:
 
does someone know what these parts are called? they are in front of the starter, seen in second pic.

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hope I'm not wasting BW, I found what they are. It's the manifold air injection system. The reason for asking here was because it's in the way of removing the starter, and the two rubber hoses that connect them and continue on to the two pumps to the rear of the vehicle were absolutely wasted, they came apart in pieces. I didn't know if they were water or air hoses. So I wanted to ask. I replaced with heater hose from autozone. It was late last night. (I guess seven hours ago I mean)
Knowing that they are air lines makes me more comfortable. As I used 3/4" ID hose and clamps to reinstall.
I will delete all this next time the intake is off.

pic below would be good to have if you have one with the SAI set up. I had to remove it all to get the starter out. Also all the wire harness connectors (seven or eight) were brittle and breaking off in pieces as I unhooked.

IF you have a black plastic manifold I would not reinstall without new lower gaskets. Shrinkage, blowby, etc.
Lastly, I guess it's the rail damper on the DS, a crescent wrench will take that off, don't kink your fuel lines.
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Completed replacing my starter today. MANY thanks to those who have gone before me.

A small note for those reading. In several posts mention has been made of how good the Toyota intake to head gaskets are, probably won't need to be replaced, and they are a quality product. However, upon removing my starter I found the starter had already been replaced by the PO with a Denso reman unit. That, and they shop he used is next to Advance Auto Parts (which carries Felpro gaskets). The gasket set crumbled when trying to take it off to clean up the mating surfaces.

Delayed to pick up a set of OEM gaskets, put everything back together and now I'm "almost" good to go. I suggest having a set on hand unless you know the manifold has never been off - especially if the truck is you only wheels.

"Almost" as I think the driver's side door lock actuator is going. Just ordered a couple of motors. At least I am keeping busy...
 
Wire connectors (clips), seal brittle or cut wires no problem. Toyota / Lexus Dealer's has the connectors (clips) & wires. The wire releases from the old clip, then simply push wire into new clip.
01 LX470 day 8 Spark Plug 205[1].JPG

With the help of mud members I was pointed to a really cool way to splice, you can't get much better.
01 LX470 day 8 Spark Plug 207[1].JPG

Not a bad idea to break down completely cleaning & conditioning. This includes de carbon under cut.
Z 01 LX470 day Starter my cleaning 3-20-16 001 (6)[1].JPG

True Commutator on home made lath, is nice touch.
Z 01 LX470 day Starter my cleaning 3-20-16 001 (10)[1].JPG

Check brushes & bearings then clean and grease gears before assemble is a must.
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I found Dealer has all parts for our starters including seals.

Check out these thread for extra info.
Knock sensor wire cut, what do I do HELP
Best starter for the money today?
 
Just as a follow up to an earlier question, I didn't see torque specs on the intake manifold bolts? Would be good to know since it is aluminum.
13ft-lbf torque intake to cylinder head
 
Thought the best use of my first post on the forum would be to thank all of you for documenting this!! Got this knocked out yesterday. It was the first project on my new to me 100 series. Big thanks to who ever it was that recommended taping all the connections with green tape! That was a stroke of brilliance!
 
Thanks to all posters here. These threads help me removed the intake in 1 hrs, took a break to work on work then another 10min to remove starter. New starter goes in tomorrow and it should be max 2hrs, so 3 hrs total R&R time is realistic if you prepare all the tools you need. Did all of this solo.

My starter died instantly with no click, no crank (link) and tapping/ praying, etc.. didn't help so I didn't know if it was power upstream or starter since most starter death are slow with click/ no crank warning, whereas mine was just quiet with no warning.

I was able to remove the driver side starter bolt using 15mm deep socket with 3/8 drive without moving any of the harness/ connectors. Used my fingers to remove the rest of the bolt once it was loose. Did the same with passenger side so it was easy.

Waiting for new Denso starter coming tomorrow and will rebuild my old for trail spare.
 
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BTDT. My starter pooped out two summers ago. I replaced it but kept the old one so I can someday rebuild it and have a spare.
 
This thread was a huge help in replacing my starter. That said, if I ever find out who designed this I will beat them to death with my old starter. If this thing ever goes out again I'm just selling my Cruiser and LS swapping an 80 series.
 
There is one good things about starter's location. It helps keep above water line of stock air intake mouth. Just trying to make lemonade, as they say.

does someone know what these parts are called? they are in front of the starter, seen in second pic.

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@jerryb Do you think your intake gaskets leaks. Looks like oil seepage around some of the ports.
 
That was serious deja vue.
We talked about that in your thread where you mic that gasket and the throttle butterfly gasket. I think I said maybe but I thought it was run down from the manifold, the wet part, not the dirt and sandy grime part. The furthest runners to the rear were the slimiest of all.
I wish I knew then what I know now. I would have replaced the injectors, and bought a steam cleaner before I put it all back together.
 
Sorry to bump this thread, but I need to say thank you for this post, I would have paid someone to do it...maybe I should have!! I would not have attempted without this though.

I have a question. I was was doing this job this weekend and when pulling the manifold the fuel line circled below
had to be removed so I thought, so I bent it to get it so that I could remove the manifold and low and below is says "don't kink this line"!! Would have helped if the text was facing so I could see it! So I kinked it, I never was able to remove it, but now I need to replace it. How is that thing on there? Is it part of the rail system? Do I need a whole new rail? Hoping to go get whatever I need tomorrow. Hose or rail? Need part # if someone has it handy!

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I can't see the kink.

But here you go:
You must take off the fuel pulsation damper, which has a large nut on underside. You'll need new gaskets (washers). The upper washer is different then all others on fuel rail, lower (solid) is the same as all others IIRC.
Fuel dampeing device FSM 07 (3)a.jpg
 
2001LC, thank you. The picture above was used from photo #13 on the first page of the thread. My actual hose is below. So is it okay to bend the hose and they are talking about it not being kinked when installed/in position? I bent it all over the place trying to get it out so I assumed I ruined the hose...?

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If hose doesn't show kick or you can't feel a kick just install it. If you have any issue after starting related to fuel, it will be your first suspect.
 

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