Procedure for replacing 100 series(98 and up) starter contacts (3 Viewers)

[BobAruba]

Thanks to this thread I just replaced my starter this weekend at 135k miles.

The FSM says 13.5 ft lbs of torque on the intake manifold bolts.

Test the starter before you put the manifold back on top of the engine. The fuse for the fuel pump is in the fuse box under the hood and is marked EFI. Originally I thought that fuse was for the electronic fuel injectors only but the FSM shows that fuse also serves the fuel pump.

AZ sells a refurb for 75 $ and a new starter for 160 $. And they had it in stock at my local store. There must be lots of 4.7 L V8 Lex/Toy in this part of the country.

I am 55 years old and installed it myself without too much trouble.

 

[Mark SR.]

I am becoming a veteran of sorts. First time at 82k miles I had the starter rebuilt by a local shop after I removed it. Found myself doing the job a second time at 111k, that time with a reman. starter from Toyota. For the past year and a half, I have had occasional trouble w/ starts. One or two clicks about every 10 to 20 starts. The Cruiser never left me stranded so I procrastinated quite a bit (not my first time doing that). Bought another starter in NOV from the local dealer & finally installed on Saturday in just under 4 hours (with a couple phone calls to interrupt). My 10 year old son "helped".

I too found it advantageous this time to raise the hood up. I did not remove it, I just unscrewed the lower connectors on the two hood lifters and tied the hood to the roof rack (pics 1& 2) as mentioned in this thread. This made the job much more comfortable. Just remember to also disconnect the washer fluid hose as well so as not to break it or its fitting. I took the hood back just to the point where the rear corners of the hood touched the plastic panel between the hood & windshield. Garage was too full so I used our beach tent to keep the Live Oak curlys from falling into the motor, and the sun off of me.

Pic 3 is immediately after lifting the manifold and just before shop vac'in the top of the motor. There were plenty of mouse/squirrel turds and even a peanut shell in there. It must be a warm & cozy spot. Fourth pic shows old and new starters side by side. Thanks to all that have contributed to this thread.

 

[Birdhunter]

I'm most of the way through this job, thanks to the help of this forum once again.

I have couple of days before I have to have it working again, and now that I have the starter off, I think I am going to make it. I bought a reman starter from a local Toyota dealer. I got the starter and gaskets for $310 and it was in stock.

I have a couple of questions though:

1) I saw one mention of replacing the fuel injector rings. My injectors seem a little wobbly but I don't know what to expect. It doesn't look like they would fall out or anything but maybe a little loose? Is there any good reason to mess with these?

2) At the back of the engine below where the starter connected I have two holes as seen in the photo below. I think I saw a photo that someone took when their starter was removed but can't seem to find it again. I am curious if these were drain holes or if they are rusted out. I was trying to figure out if I need to try to fill the holes in or if they were intentional. I can't quite tell where they go.

I think I have replaced about 6 different starters in various cars I've had over the years, and none were this difficult. In all of those previous cases I was replacing them long before 265k miles though...

 

[Birdhunter]

So it's been a few months since I posted a question about this -- I ended up not worrying about that hole I was asking about.

Here is a video of my starter replacement -- less than 2 minutes! Actually it took me about three evenings for a total of 7-8 hours. I was working by myself and trying not to break anything. I hope I never have to find out if it's faster the second time.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Cool video. What type camera you use?

 

[SmoothLC]

Nice - a spider man pillow.

Personally, I use a padded Gators blanket.

 

[Birdhunter]

Cool video. What type camera you use?

Thanks, it's a Canon T2i with a timer plugged in and set for photos every 60 seconds. Then put together with Windows Movie Maker.

 

[Isaacjohnstar]

What did I miss? Replaced the starter contacts and it's still not working!!!

I spent 4hrs today changing the starter contacts with new Toyota contacts.

It was 25 degrees out and my fingers are still a bit sore from twisting bolts and nuts. I've had too many hours in the office haha.

I pulled off the intake and pulled the starter out without too much trouble. The boards over the engine compartment trick was great advice!

I installed the new contacts with the instructions in the beginning of the thread. My old contacts were worn. I placed the new contacts in the starter in the same order and what looked like the same alinement.

Now, I read somewhere about a wood block to use as a jig here? Or others had used a c clamp? I didn't read into why, and now I'm kicking myself.

When I re assembled everything I tried to start it and got a "click" and "hmmm" noise. No start, no turn over, no nothing. I checked all connections again and found one behind the driver side starter bolt that I forgot to plug in! Hallelujah!!!

Nope that wasn't it (F#%€ck!!!)

I should have tried the stater when the manifold was off!

Spent the next half hour looking for any missed connection or bolt. Everything is plugged in and bolted up.

I also installed a brand new battery at the time of the repair. The connections are tight and the door ding and lights come on when I turn the key.

Any ideas? Did I miss a step in the contact repair? Could the starter be bad in a way that contacts can't repair?

I usually don't have much frustration with non completed repairs, but with the cold and limited time this one has me wound up.

 

[Isaacjohnstar]

I've started a separate thread about this for higher visibility. I hope that is ok?

 

[Brock]

Going to be doing a replacement of my starter after 200k+ miles on the original...some recommendations from my local independent shop were as follows: - lay manifold towards drivers side upside down and dont have to remove fuel line, - be careful not to unplug or touch the knock sensor wires there in the engine valley as they are very brittle most times, - take time and use care removing hoses , - remove throttle body first but lay it forward without disconnecting to get out of the way and not leave attached to manifold.

I am getting the Denso starter for $180 and going ahead and replacing gaskets since I have over 200k miles on LX at this point and have never had to do this yet. Will spend time Saturday working on it and hopefully will go smoothly. Thanks for the OP and the input.....

 

[Quick]

Need to replace my starter at 191,000 after having bought an Optima red top for what I thought was a battery issue (replaced/returned two Auto Zones batteries). Should have come here first

Anyway having cold start crank issue and what feels like a lose battery cable/connection. Need help sourcing a brand new starter?

While I hunt for a starter, Indy called stating he can't duplicate the start issue as truck starts every time he cranks it and this is while it was left out in fairly cold weather.

So do you all think it sounds like a starter problem and should I just go ahead and replace it anyway at this mileage?

Would Tundra V-8 starter fits our LX-470 as ebay keeps bringing up those starters?
Thanks

 

[Brock]

Okay...starter replacement is done. I also went ahead and replaced the intake manifold gaskets since I am at 210,000 miles even though they looked good. Some thoughts and lessons learned:

- the writeups here were great...some things I either did not read or were missed but for most part was good help.
- Make sure to take pictures of both sides and front...before removing intake manifold and any hoses or plugs.
- Make sure to have plent of rags available to stuff into the 8 ports
- Rats do in fact like living there....I found nesting material and a bunch of dog and cat food. Was not from me since it is daily driver but may have been from previous owner..who knows. Rats were gone but shop vac got all the stuff up.
- There is a quick disconnect for the pesky electrical ground at back of manifold...comes out of firewall on DS slightly above engine...black clip. Much easier than trying to get to it to remove from back of engine.
- I folded throttle body forward and did not disconnect anything else from it after removing air box, maf sensor, etc...just let it sit forward.
- I did not disconnect any fuel lines or rails....when I got the bolts, hoses, throttle cable and a couple mounts on DS loose...when I lifted manifold I just layed it upside down sort of and had blanket there to help support Allowed me to wipe underneath of intake manifold ports and not mess with fuel lines or anything.
- There are two plugs about mid ways in the lower part of motor with wires going to them...they are knock sensors. Be sure not to touch or mess with them as they can be brittle. I was warned by my shop locally so stayed clear.
- Wish they would have warned me of the two plugs just behind the water pump shown in picture below. They are the green and the gray plugs to left of water pump housing I think...I believe the one is the ECT Sensor and the other is the Water Sender Gauge.

This is not my engine....I used red rags but the mouse nest was similar minus I had much more cat food piled up. Anyonw...careful when moving it around as these will snap easily after 210,000 miles on a 2000 LX470. LOL

- Removing the engine hook on PS of engine is a big help...but cannot remove hook on DS for two reasons...one is it is used for a ground wire and the other is one of the bolts goes through to engine and will allow oil to blow out unless you replace the bolt and seal it. That one stayed in place but did not prove to be much issue.

- After reconnecting everything....plugs, hoses, wires, etc......truck would not start for a bit...starter worked great but would not fire and run. Guessing it was MAF and fuel system having to re-pressurize. After sitting for 5 hours with no battery power...soon it started idling and running fine minus the inop water temp dash gauge.


Some words to wise--

- buy a magnetic wand for sure...that thing is a life save in retrieving the bolts from intake manifold and the nuts as well.
- try to source magnetic 12 and 14 mm sockets...but if not take some thin box tape and put in the socket head and it will hold your bolts and allow you to drop them into the holes and tighten...then can remove tape from head of bolt if needed with the LONG needle nose pliers.
- have shop vac ready to suck up all the loose stuff...my whole engine was covered with sand and debris
- pop the two hood struts and then have a sturdy item to prop it up and someone to watch as I hit it a few times with my back jockeying my 6'3" 250+ lbs in engine bay. LUckily my large bumper allowed me to stand on it and also a step stool for over fenders...would have been easier to remove front tires...and lower onto jack stands to make easier to reach.
- Be careful to pull away and tuck all the blue connectors to make sure none get crushed when putting it back together...tuck them good.
- GET A FRIEND TO HELP even if it is only for replacing the intake manifold....the 2x10 or 1x8 someone recommended would have helped IMMENSELY if I would have seen it prior to starting.
- Dont wait too long after it starts acting up...mine started last week...woke to 37* so swapped cars in driveway with intent of backing it into garage so I could run heater and keep warm. It failed to start after wife misunderstood me saying back it up and thinking I only meant part way up drive instead of into garage...it was dead. Thankful she was not stranded during week or did not happen elsewhere but was a chilly morning.


** Was it worth doing it myself rather than paying $400 of labor for my shop to do it?

- when I was fighting with the manifold trying to re-install...no I would have gladly paid the $400...not kidding. LOL
- now...glad I did it so I can help others....if someone had been there to guide and show me it would have went much smoother...so now I can be that guy for others that may need it soon.
- my only regret is not getting help earlier so I may not have snapped off the water sender and ECT sensor with my brutish attempt to do everything by myself. LOL

Thanks to IH8MUD once again for helping me figure out something and do it myself...from desmogging my FJ60 a few years ago...installing Aussie Lockers with help of friend....and more. Well worth it to me.

Thank you everyone....

 

[Brock]

**Anybody got part numbers for both these sensors? I can find replacement ECT Sensors all day long...... but cant find ANYTING on that smaller gray sensor right below it. The manual calls it a WATER SENDER GAUGE.

ECT sends info to ECU to help with air-fuel mixture to ensure proper mix.

Guessing Water Sender Gauge is the one that sends temp to dash gauge...but cant find it in parts shops online.

Would rather not buy through stealershirp if I can get away with OEM or similar through someone else.**

 

[Brock]

Part numbers for the two sensors shown in lower left (Green on top and gray underneath) are as follow:

Green- ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) sensor: goes to ECU so it can identify engine temp and provide proper fuel/air ratio...vehicle may not run with it broke or disconnected. Toyota number-89422 and is $68.33 from dealer. NAPA (#TS6677) Price- MSRP $63.18, discount makes it $40.39.

Gray- Water Sending Gauge: sends temp readings to gauge on dashboard for water coolant temp readings. Toyota number- 83420 and is $27.10 from dealer. NAPA (#143-4037) Price- MSRP $28.73, discount makes it $24.67.

Neither the local Lexus or Toyota dealers had them in stock. So went to NAPA and they were able to cross reference both and provide them at a savings with parts that were fully tested already. The ECT (Toyota green head) comes with a one-use washer as well to use.

My 2UZ-FE is a 4-00 build date, 2000 LX470.

 

[rexassian]

Thanks to all the info in this thread. I was able to change out my starter yesterday. My intake manifold was horrible dirty on the inside, to the point where the paper towels would stick to the sludge and I'd need to get more to wipe off the residue. The cruiser only had 200k so I'm surprised by the amount of sludge I cleaned off.

I did manage to break the green ECT harness at the front of the water pump housing. Any idea if dealerships can get just the harness so I can solder it in? My hack job to fix it last night probably won't hold for too long. Thanks!

 

[rexassian]

I managed to get a new harness and wires to replace the broken one. If anyone else breaks the little green connector, part #s are:

90980-10737 : housing connector
82998-12500 : terminal, repair

you'll want 2 of that second one, it's the new wire pigtails and connectors that push into the housing. Solder the new wires into the old ones and you're good to go.

 

[Nottajeep]

I guess i lost a knock sensor?
Mice may have got to it.

Does this part just unscrew and plug/play?

 

[Superflo]

My 98 LC has started exhibiting this issue at 102k. Unfortunately I just moved to Dallas alone and my tools are scattered and I got rid of my 2nd vehicle so I'll most likely be taking this into a shop. I got one quote today for $850 from an independent napa shop with a 2 year 24k warranty on parts and labor (up to 3/36 if i finance it with the shop 0% interest for first 6 months). The shop mentioned there is a note that the knock sensors often start throwing codes after a starter replacement due to them getting "knocked" around during the install/removal process of the intake. One poster mentioned it but from the 11 pages of comments from people who've done this only the previous post mentions needing to replace a knock sensor and he didn't elaborate on if it was damaged during the starter replacement process. At $250 a piece it seems steep. Just curious what everyone experience has been with the knock sensors.

Also anyone have any shop recommendations in the Irving/Dallas area.

TIA

 

[ponytl]

My 98 LC has started exhibiting this issue at 102k. Unfortunately I just moved to Dallas alone and my tools are scattered and I got rid of my 2nd vehicle so I'll most likely be taking this into a shop. I got one quote today for $850 from an independent napa shop with a 2 year 24k warranty on parts and labor (up to 3/36 if i finance it with the shop 0% interest for first 6 months). The shop mentioned there is a note that the knock sensors often start throwing codes after a starter replacement due to them getting "knocked" around during the install/removal process of the intake. One poster mentioned it but from the 11 pages of comments from people who've done this only the previous post mentions needing to replace a knock sensor and he didn't elaborate on if it was damaged during the starter replacement process. At $250 a piece it seems steep. Just curious what everyone experience has been with the knock sensors.

Also anyone have any shop recommendations in the Irving/Dallas area.

TIA

Man... for $850 I'd go to harbor freight and buy a few tools... it really is not a hard job... on my first engine swap i forgot to snap on the starter wire... took me less than an hour to remove the manifold connect wire and reinstall...
everyone here has tips but this is what worked for me... remove your airbox top and hose to the throttle body... set aside... I disconnect the fuel line from the fuel filter, take a bunch of pictures so you can get everything put back as it came off... but most every hose and wire will just about fall into place... off the top of my head tools you will need
10mm socket
12mm socket & 12mm combo wrench
14mm socket and 14mm wrench (a ratcheting wrench works well for the 2 bolts that hold the starter)
pliers for the spring hose clamps (now is the time to replace your heater T's)
magnetic pick up tool (but I just use a piece of paper in the socket to make it grip the bolt head tight and (I tape the socket to the extension so as not to lose the socket)
10"-12" extension
3/8 ratchet
combo screwdriver
free flashlight from harbor freight, the magnetic dishes that will hold your bolts and tools are worth the $2.99
I also like to undo the hood supports and tie the hood back full open
I like the idea of pulling the front wheels and dropping the truck down as low as you can
but i just climb my old ass up in the engine compartment...
I just replaced an entire engine... with timing kit & water pump new belts and hoses for less than what they want to charge you for a starter...

 

[Slickspawn]

Thanks to the OP for the instructions and many others for the tips. Got to this point in about 30 minutes... Now having coffee and contemplating how to best work on getting the starter out with minimal back pain. I'm thinking of going with the plank procedure.