Procedure for replacing 100 series(98 and up) starter contacts (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter rph74
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Steel bolts going into aluminum, not a bad idea. But really when dealing with starter, I've not had issue. I'm in colorado, those in a rust belt area should use much more than I find the need to.
Hello all,
In a lot of trouble right now.
2006 Landcruiser. Took the intake off to replace the starter and it looks like the bell housing is in the way of the driver side starter bolt. Any ideas?
HELP!!
Going to get it towed in the morning because I will be out of town tomorrow. Had no idea these trucks were different.
In a lot of trouble right now.
2006 Landcruiser. Took the intake off to replace the starter and it looks like the bell housing is in the way of the driver side starter bolt. Any ideas?
HELP!!
Going to get it towed in the morning because I will be out of town tomorrow. Had no idea these trucks were different.
Just completed removing the starter. Will tackle the rebuilt tomorrow after work. The black small clip holding the main wire going to starter broke off. Not sure if it will hold in place or I need to buy a new housing connector. I need to find the part number first.
Question - should I replace the grommets for the injectors? Does anyone know what is the part number?
I will post some pics once the job is completed.
Question - should I replace the grommets for the injectors? Does anyone know what is the part number?
I will post some pics once the job is completed.
Which year your working on makes a difference. Here the 01 (98-02) and may work for other years IDK. Toyota Parts Department will fix you up!
See post #57 for starter clip Knock sensor wire cut, what do I do HELP
Also in that post #57 near bottom is links to fuel injector info.
It doesn't hurt to replace grommets if you've pulled injectors. If you've have time and don't need the rig for a few weeks, consider having injectors cleaned, rebuilt & tested and replace fuel pressure regulator.
I suppose this will not help you today, but here goes.
These bolts are just a pain to get at, but very doable. I like to pull the bolt holding wire block bracket on bellhousing. It's not really necessary, but increases wiggle room and reduce risk of damage. There are two ways to get that main bolt on DS of starter. First is from above, just use a short 3" extension on your socket or long socket with a 1/2" breaker bar. Using a larger 1/2" breaker bar makes life easier. The other way to get at that DS bolt is from below. I come in form below when torque back in, more so than during removal. To do this I use all my extension, extending about two feet with a universal on socket. This puts my torque wrench at side and below transmission.
Seeing what your dealing with may help.
There is a 10mm or 12mm bolt attaching the starter wire housing, that needs removing at some point.
Depending on year, configuration varies. This is the VVT engine so has extra stuff for in the area for AI pump.
Toyota made the heads of the two starter securing bolts very long to help us out in this difficult area. Thank you Mr T.
The wire block bracket on bellhousing is easily moved to to give more wiggle room, but not necessary.
You do not need to disconnect these three wire blocks in any case. But removing just the one bolt from bracket holding to bellhousing helps with wiggle room.
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so I put mine back together and took it to the certified toyota mechanic in town.
Welp, he just called and said the bellhousing is in the way and he couldn't get the starter off without dropping the trans.
This truck is a 2006 with the 5 speed transmission - I'm guessing that's the difference from the 4 speeds? anyone confirm?
Also, has anyone done this on a 2006 or 07?
Thanks for the reply, Christian
Tell him he is wrong, very wrong. I've done in the 4spd & 5spd it make no difference whatsoever. It is tighter & more involved with the 06-07 VVT engine, but getting these bolts are the same PITA but very doable.
Link him to the post above, he'll see. I show pictures above with engine pulled, just because that's what I have on hand. I also laid out how to do (with transmission in).
Hope someone at least clean area around intake manifold, or you'll be getting dirt into intake ports of head. NOT GOOD.Tell him to blow out area between head and intake manifold with HP air, to clean. Also make sure he replaces intake and throttle body gaskets. Tell him to disconnect throttle body (TB) from intake manifold, but leave TB in place with coolant lines attached.
Do yourself a favor. Either use a Toyota/Lexus shop or better yet a 100 series specialist. Your corner shops just don't see enough of these or take the time to read the FSM. He obviously didn't take the time to look-up in any hard copy manual or online. Or he'd see procedure spelled out. Which does not include pulling transmission or engine. This tells me he'll not torque to spec anything on assemble.
Also have him read this whole page: Scored a 06 LC (untouched Jewell restoration)
It's a 2006 5spd with VVTi.
The book (FSM) does have us pull rear water by-pass. But really it can be done without, it just makes easier. The hoses and a very small vacuum line on the AI pump and switch needs replacing also.
It's a 2006 5spd with VVTi.
The book (FSM) does have us pull rear water by-pass. But really it can be done without, it just makes easier. The hoses and a very small vacuum line on the AI pump and switch needs replacing also.
In the PM you started with me, I can't post pictures. So posting here will help your mechanic and others that may need it.
The three red arrows point the 10mm bolts holding that main wire housing black plastic. Remove them will give extra wiggle room to get at DS starter securing bolt. Also remove the bolt from wire housing bracket on bellhousing I pictured above.
The yellow arrow points at a bolt on starter wire housing. See in Snowy's link "Scored a 06LC" ^ above, you'll see I pull that bolt later. It can be done now or later, it makes no difference in getting at this one DS starter securing bolt, you're having trouble with.
This is all done with engine and transmission in the vehicle.
Red arrows point to main engine wire housing black plastic block. You can see and get a 10mm socket on the two attracted to water by-pass from above looking down with a 8 or 12" extension. Yellow points to starter wire yellow plastic housing block, get to later.
The three red arrows point the 10mm bolts holding that main wire housing black plastic. Remove them will give extra wiggle room to get at DS starter securing bolt. Also remove the bolt from wire housing bracket on bellhousing I pictured above.
The yellow arrow points at a bolt on starter wire housing. See in Snowy's link "Scored a 06LC" ^ above, you'll see I pull that bolt later. It can be done now or later, it makes no difference in getting at this one DS starter securing bolt, you're having trouble with.
This is all done with engine and transmission in the vehicle.
Red arrows point to main engine wire housing black plastic block. You can see and get a 10mm socket on the two attracted to water by-pass from above looking down with a 8 or 12" extension. Yellow points to starter wire yellow plastic housing block, get to later.
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Thank you 2001LC for all the info. I'm going to try again when the truck can be down for a while and send the injectors out. I even looked with a mirror and it seems like the bell housing is right up on the bolt but I'm going to give it another shot. Hopefully it doesn't have an aftermarket transmission or something silly like that. I don't know if that would change anything. Just makes me nervous that I tried and the mechanic - he states he was a certified toyota mechanic so I trusted him.
Anyhow, I'll keep you updated.
Thanks again for all your documentation and dedication. I did search earlier but never came across your thread. I was a little panicked with having the family truck all apart!
Christian
Anyhow, I'll keep you updated.
Thanks again for all your documentation and dedication. I did search earlier but never came across your thread. I was a little panicked with having the family truck all apart!
Christian
Hi, does anyone know how to remove and replace the housing of the starter connector (90980-11400)? The little piece that holds it in place broke and now I got a replace it unless there is an alternative. I don't think electrical tape will hold that in place for a long run.
You'll see (or feel bolt) once wire housings are free to move around little, the socket will fit. Just put on socket then work out extension you'll use. Like I said sometime I'll come at with 2 feet of extension for underside, sometimes I just do all from top side.
I just took this picture so you can see the 14mm socket fits. Engine just happens to be out in this picture, to be clear not required.
Put some study into the AI (Air Induction pump $ switch) as you'll need to remove and replace hoses to pull starter. If you follow the FSM it will have you remove rear water by-pass also and switch attached to it, which you'll need gaskets for. If you read my THREAD on Snowy. You see I felt I could have done without remove water by-pass & switches.
If you go the route of pulling switch on water bypass the boltsare easier to get at than they appear.
The worst part of the whole job is working on back of engine. I put a cushion over radiator support to lie across. I also get up into the engine bay at times. Some guys run a board from fender to fender to lie on, good idea if you protect fender paint & tin. Others have a great tool, a kind of adjustable platform. Would be sweet to have!
Ship off your fuel injector first thing. Then take your time. If you get frustrated stop for the day, research in the forum, sleep on it, then go at it again. I assure that bolts not that bad, once you've done it you'll see.
If you don't have the FSM root around on mud for one. Keep in mind the procedure is different for the VVt engine so look for a 06-07 FSM. There's been a guy on ebay selling some FSM at good prices. He'll take offers, around >$200.
Again, disconnect your throttle body from intake manifold and leave in engine bay with coolant lines attach. Saves time and work.
I just took this picture so you can see the 14mm socket fits. Engine just happens to be out in this picture, to be clear not required.
Put some study into the AI (Air Induction pump $ switch) as you'll need to remove and replace hoses to pull starter. If you follow the FSM it will have you remove rear water by-pass also and switch attached to it, which you'll need gaskets for. If you read my THREAD on Snowy. You see I felt I could have done without remove water by-pass & switches.
If you go the route of pulling switch on water bypass the boltsare easier to get at than they appear.
The worst part of the whole job is working on back of engine. I put a cushion over radiator support to lie across. I also get up into the engine bay at times. Some guys run a board from fender to fender to lie on, good idea if you protect fender paint & tin. Others have a great tool, a kind of adjustable platform. Would be sweet to have!
Ship off your fuel injector first thing. Then take your time. If you get frustrated stop for the day, research in the forum, sleep on it, then go at it again. I assure that bolts not that bad, once you've done it you'll see.
If you don't have the FSM root around on mud for one. Keep in mind the procedure is different for the VVt engine so look for a 06-07 FSM. There's been a guy on ebay selling some FSM at good prices. He'll take offers, around >$200.
Again, disconnect your throttle body from intake manifold and leave in engine bay with coolant lines attach. Saves time and work.
Shop just tie with high heat strap. I like to order new housing. Once you have the new you'll see how it comes apart.
This is for 01 you must give VIN or manufacture date when ordering.
Not sure if this is helpful. I have replaced the starter contacts on 1UZ engines without removing the starter (i.e. the hard part). Here is a picture of the new contacts without actually removing the starter mount. This could maybe work on the 2UZ starter as well? Make sure to align the contacts when tightening.
Interesting idea.
To pull the starter really isn't that bad.
In the 98-02 one may be able to replace plugger, it would be difficult. The angle and depth into the valley would make difficult. The contacts require a special procedure to hold, which would not be possible with conventional tools in the valley. It would also mean not servicing the rest of the starter i.e. gerar & grease. It's really the whole job taking time. The mounting bolt on back of starter, really, just aren't that bad once you've done it.
May 05-07 MFD date Toyota doesn't sell contacts and plunger, just magnetic solenoid assemble ~$120. The rebuilt starter is ~$200. (IDK but 03-05 probably the same deal) For the difference it worth it to just get the whole rebuilt starter. Denso rebuilds are top line. The VVt engine have their own challenges, but again it would be difficult in place. This one was by the book and water-by pass is off.
You're really not having fun until you replace the starter in VVt engine
To pull the starter really isn't that bad.
In the 98-02 one may be able to replace plugger, it would be difficult. The angle and depth into the valley would make difficult. The contacts require a special procedure to hold, which would not be possible with conventional tools in the valley. It would also mean not servicing the rest of the starter i.e. gerar & grease. It's really the whole job taking time. The mounting bolt on back of starter, really, just aren't that bad once you've done it.
May 05-07 MFD date Toyota doesn't sell contacts and plunger, just magnetic solenoid assemble ~$120. The rebuilt starter is ~$200. (IDK but 03-05 probably the same deal) For the difference it worth it to just get the whole rebuilt starter. Denso rebuilds are top line. The VVt engine have their own challenges, but again it would be difficult in place. This one was by the book and water-by pass is off.
You're really not having fun until you replace the starter in VVt engine
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I have ordered the housing connector (1999 has the same part number as 2001LC). Hopefully it arrives tomorrow during the day so I can put the starter back up tomorrow night. The breather also broke off but I should be able to put it back afterwards since it won't be here tomorrow.
Meanwhile took out all coils and spark plugs. Once the starter is in place, I will do compression test before changing all spark plugs and some of the coils. I am still getting inconsistent results testing the coils with multimeter, must be doing something wrong.
I did clean the intake manifold using carb cleaner, 409 and water. Hopefully nothing gets damaged doing that. It is set to dry out until tomorrow.
Update: The starter is working great now. The following parts have been replaced. Thanks again for contributors
Meanwhile took out all coils and spark plugs. Once the starter is in place, I will do compression test before changing all spark plugs and some of the coils. I am still getting inconsistent results testing the coils with multimeter, must be doing something wrong.
I did clean the intake manifold using carb cleaner, 409 and water. Hopefully nothing gets damaged doing that. It is set to dry out until tomorrow.
Update: The starter is working great now. The following parts have been replaced. Thanks again for contributors
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