Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (13 Viewers)

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And I got the steering gear box out today to send off to Red Head Steering Gears for a rebuild. I prepared for a bloodbath of ATF but I got lucky and barely made a mess. Lucky me! 🤓

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I sent mine off to west texas offroad for a rebuild. It was done ahead of schedule and at the price quoted.
Then Fedex lost the package "somewhere" in a Tennessee warehouse.
It was insured and literally on the day ( waited 7 weeks) I was going to email for them to proceed with the claim. They found the package. It was packaged and sealed in a 5 gallon bucket and they said the "package failed" in shipping.
Maybe they use the gorillas from the old Samsonite commercial in the warehouse but since it had sat so long they shipped it back to West Texas off road who are going to resend it back out after they look it over.
 
Ive been slowly replacing the o2 sensors on the 2004 sequoia. Today i discovered that on the passenger side precat o2 sensor, that the harness side of the wiring is disconnected from the connector. I likely didnt have the removal latch depressed enough when i started pulling the plug.
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Bad pic, but you can see the area im working with. Right side middle you can see the 4 wires for the sensor sans connector. So, the wires are short, so adding extensions or the stock connector on there would be a PITA to fix in place. Thinking ill have to open up the loom and search for the set of wires. Of course it runs along the back of the engine...
Before i do that though, and start sorting through the loom, is there another intermediate disconnect clip in there that might make life easier in the loom? Im open to ideas. If i jack up the truck i might be able to get my hands up there to add some wire extensions and put the stock connector or some other kind back on.
 
If you look at the back corners behind the intake the harness bolts down in a plastic channel. If you unbolt that and unplug the transmission plugs coming out of it, you might be able to pull the harness up enough in the back. That harness is routed stupidly tight and just all around a pain.
 
Word. Def beats cutting the loom apart. Im gonna need a piece of board to span the engine bay to get back there. Ordered some new connector kits and the special crimper needed. There is rumor of it getting warmer this week for a few days.
 
Word. Def beats cutting the loom apart. Im gonna need a piece of board to span the engine bay to get back there. Ordered some new connector kits and the special crimper needed. There is rumor of it getting warmer this week for a few days.
Go in through the wheel well. Take the starter out if needed, but you should be able to get to them. I had to rewire all of the trans connectors as the socket was so corroded.
 
Pulled the leaking radiator out and took it to sterling radiator, he's going to find some different options to make it cool a little better and send me a quote today or tomorrow. I also got to work on removing the raptor liner, and let me tell you. When ever someone says, "Not an ounce of bondo on it!", they're full of s***. Front of driver side fender is like a cheese grater and has a lot of body filler in it. Rear of passenger fender has a good bit to. This thing won't be a show truck, but i don't want it to rust away under the truck bed liner so thats why i started peeling it off. I'm playing with the idea of trying to make custom fenders since its gonna be wider, but i don't plan to use a ton of round tube as its general shape is more boxy and i think square/rectangle tubing would look good through out.
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I ordered a new water pump, thermostat, rad tubes, hvac hot water valve, and some clutch parts. So now waiting on all that stuff.

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I followed the internets advice and put citristrip down and then ceran wrap over it, and it actually worked pretty good. I recommend using more than you think you need, the spots it was really globbed on came off super easy. Spots that had a regular helping of stripper seemed to dry up. I used an electric scraper and a grinder with a wire drum.

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Life is pain. My shoulder is done, i picked up a surface conditioner from harbor freight and i'm gonna use it this weekend to try and remove more of this stuff. I've been on the fence about what color to go with. I kinda like the idea of the old mustard yellow body with a white roof, and i'm probably gonna use raptor liner to do it lol. I plan to thin it and spray it in a way to not have as rough a texture like usual bed liner, this thing has so many patch panels and body filler i'm digging out that regular paint would give away the massive amounts of cancer that was removed.
 
@JakeisbadatThis I like the mustard/white idea. And, I didn't know about the Saran Wrap and Citristrip combo to get rid of bed liner.

I'm curious if you tried using a magnet to test for bondo thru the liner before you started stripping. I'm curious if a standard or neodymium magnet would be better, but I guess it depends on the thickness of both the liner and the bondo? I've never bought a lined truck but I've considered a couple.
 
you are a brave man to tackle the rhinoliner removal. I wish you the best of luck, and I'm sure your loved ones are happy that you are using a respirator. :)
 
I think we were talking about the price of GL-4 gear oil and the fact you can't find it anymore. Found this online at $21 a gallon and free shipping above $50. seems like a price that is reasonable.
 
Swapped out the old starter in the 40 after the solenoid decided to go on vacation. Went gear reduction.
Amazingly better but if you are going to it from the old starter just go ahead and get a 6” longer battery cable because it has to go under the starter now.
Also mad props to Kiichiro Toyoda for putting a stud at the top so you can just hang the starter and then put the nut and the bottom bolt on..... it's the little things in life that make it enjoyable.

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during the process of removing/cleaning/painting elements of the steering linkage while I have the gearbox out, I snapped the yoke of the inner spider joint, because why wouldn't I break something, right?!? Trying to find a replacement yoke (4524460020) or shaft assembly (4522060080) for a 61/62 series. Now it's not so bad that the gearbox shipment is late from Redhead Steering.
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during the process of removing/cleaning/painting elements of the steering linkage while I have the gearbox out, I snapped the yoke of the inner spider joint, because why wouldn't I break something, right?!? Trying to find a replacement yoke (4524460020) or shaft assembly (4522060080) for a 61/62 series. Now it's not so bad that the gearbox shipment is late from Redhead Steering. View attachment 3541800
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@jkdur728
 
@kevin in okinawa I probably have one on my parts 60 at the farm. I don’t have the box but should still have the ujoints. I’ll try and go out tomorrow and look.
 
Made a lot of progress yesterday! Took advantage of the warm weather and painted some parts outside. Scrubbed my garage floor too to keep the wife happy (it was getting nasty).

The gear box came back looking nice! The one I sent them looked rough, they sure made it look pretty. And ported for a future hydro-assist project. 🤓

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got my Delta vehicle systems panhard arm (rear) lift bracket installed. Had a shop install some extended front brake lines (my articulation was such that my brake line mounting tabs bent and I'm lucky I didn't hurt my old lines).





next up:

1) wrapping my exhaust with Ti/thermal wrap, the aluminium tub can get hot
2) re-fabricating my drivers front seat mount (lowering it by about 1.25" via cutting wheel, and re-welding it together)
3) using my new welder to fab up some rear mud flap hangers, will come off the frame with a spring joint at the mount point
 

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