Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (20 Viewers)

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Trying to setup my bench top lathe/mill to remove what’s left of a broken bolt. The bolt snapped off while I was separating the exhaust housing from the rest of the turbo. The sooner I can remove the bolt, the sooner I can get it Cerakoted to finish rebuilding it.

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My buddy starting the process of installing patch panels from Cruiser Corps on both of my front doors. Not gonna lie, this is a little scary. More so than installing new quarter panels for some reason. I did most of the measuring and cutting myself, but the welding is his thing. We are both juggling kids, wives, and chores...so this project will take some time.

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Those door patches look good. Make sure to fab in some drain holes so water doesn’t collect. One of the 42,963 things I’ve had to fix from the previous owner on my rig....I made mine extra largish so they wouldn’t get clogged with debris.
 
Those door patches look good. Make sure to fab in some drain holes so water doesn’t collect. One of the 42,963 things I’ve had to fix from the previous owner on my rig....I made mine extra largish so they wouldn’t get clogged with debris.
YES! The old rotten felt that had fallen to the bottom of these doors is the reason they rusted out. That crap just sat there like a sponge.
 
Those door patches look good. Make sure to fab in some drain holes so water doesn’t collect. One of the 42,963 things I’ve had to fix from the previous owner on my rig....I made mine extra largish so they wouldn’t get clogged with debris.
I also used a spray-in wax film into the bottoms of my doors, just like they do in Land Rovers, after I installed lower door patch panels.
 
I’m stealing your idea @Stumpalama next time I pull off my door panels.

Also, picked up my cerakote turbo exhaust manifold:

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I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend Coatings USA. I’m going to try Bmore Kreative Coatings for the turbo housing this next round. They are a bit closer to me and seem to have more experience with automotive applications.
 
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This was expensive, but made it easy: C-Channel Kit 60 Series

I will also warn you that the gas tank became as a big a project as the C-channels, and from what I can see it is a very common problem. Both hard lines coming out of the tank that are part of the fuel pump bracket were corroded so badly that they fell apart. That bracket is not available anywhere from what I can tell--Toyota doesn't make it and it doesn't appear anyone else does either. @Jakes40 and @jcj_78FJ40 drove to the parts store to get some new line in both sizes, bent it, and used JB Weld to hold it in. It is not an ideal solution, but it is one that works. See the photo here #3,799

If you are interested in buying a used fuel pump bracket, PM me and I'll give you the contact information for a guy selling one, but he wants $350.
 
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I don't know if I would call that expensive, hours and hours of cutting, bending and drilling sounds expensive! Did you go carbon or stainless? I'm thinking save few bucks and spend the savings on good primer and paint to seal it all up.

I took the tank out years ago and don't remember the line being to bad. Tank was restored years ago by Smitty's Radiator Shop in Landover Md, it's been sitting in the back of the 60 for years...
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The fuel pump bracket is an unfortunate 62 issue.
I put a brand new OEM fuel pick-up & fuel sender in my 60 a couple of months ago. Pretty reasonable from McGeorge Toyota.
 
Got my hard brake line repair kit put together and in my 80. I'm not sure why they supply the grease with the tool, Mitch's version of this tool came with a tub-o-grease too. Maybe it's for steel line and not needed for the NiCopp lines?

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With tremendous help from @TRFCSUX, @Jakes40, and @jcj_78FJ40 we replaced the C-channels in the FJ62. The job is as atrocious as it is made out to be.

I ordered the plain steel kit!

I've been slowly knocking rivets out (over years) with a grinder and drill, I don't have enough air compressor to run an air hammer. Did you find an easy way to do it?
 
This was expensive, but made it easy: C-Channel Kit 60 Series

I will also warn you that the gas tank became as a big a project as the C-channels, and from what I can see it is a very common problem. Both hard lines coming out of the tank that are part of the fuel pump bracket were corroded so badly that they fell apart. That bracket is not available anywhere from what I can tell--Toyota doesn't make it and it doesn't appear anyone else does either. @Jakes40 and @jcj_78FJ40 drove to the parts store to get some new line in both sizes, bent it, and used JB Weld to hold it in. It is not an ideal solution, but it is one that works. See the photo here #3,799

If you are interested in buying a used fuel pump bracket, PM me and I'll give you the contact information for a guy selling one, but he wants $350.

Hey, if it makes you feel better, you’re not the only one with a JB welded inlet pipe. 40 fuel tank suction tubes are unicorns.
 
I ordered the plain steel kit!

I've been slowly knocking rivets out (over years) with a grinder and drill, I don't have enough air compressor to run an air hammer. Did you find an easy way to do it?

I purchased plain steel as well. It will likely outlast the frame. Grinder, drill, and punch were the tools. Air hammer did help quite a bit though.
 
Converted a buddies 74 Fj40 to a gm one wire alternator. He took it to multiple shops and the wiring has been hacked up so it was much easier to go gm. Made a bracket and did some wiring.
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Changed out my 80's diff oil today and started to prep for replacing the broken front sway bar brackets. Apparently the bracket is welded to the axle so I need to cut out the one that didn't break off at Fall Crawl. Unfortunately the bolt on the DS has rust welded itself to the bracket making this a job for another day.

I also got started on replacing my 40's oil pan. I initially thought the pan was seeping from the between the pan and the skid plate but that sucker looks great on the inside. I cleaned up inside the pan then rigged up this test with a couple gallons of water. If this doesn't produce a drip (which I don't expect it to) then the only other thing I can think of is I did a terrible oil pan gasket replacement when I did it several years ago. My daughter was helping me with these jobs today and she said the oil pan bolts came out with minimal effort so maybe the gasket was seeping oil and running down the sides of the pan and making it look like the back of the skid junction was leaking. Anyway, I'll let this sit for a couple hours but I suppose if it was truly leaking it'd drip almost immediately. If this pan ends up being OK I'll have a NIB OEM oil pan for sale soon.

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