Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (3 Viewers)

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So gave the new pan a shot but it sure doesn't seem to want to set up there properly. I'm using Felpre Snap-ups this time on @Blue77FJ40 's recommendation (they're pretty amazing BTW) and got the front and back of the gasket set in their channels just right. I got a few bolts started on the PS but I can't catch any threads on the DS. I know I can get some longer bolts and ease it up but it just doesn't seem like everything is fitting together properly. It's almost like the curve of the front and back of the pan isn't the same arch. In the last picture you can see how much of the new gasket is showing which doesn't seem right although I didn't specifically look at this before I pulled old pan and gasket down.

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For further detail, check out my write up of yore: ih8mud.com/tech/oilpan.php

It mentions the positioning of the gasket, specifically, what is front and what is rear by the lines on the gasket. HTH.

As Gary says (also the FSM), the sealant only goes in the corners of the gasket. If you get any on the stirrup going over the rear, it will pooch out when you tighten the bolts. Ask me how I know. Remember, the tighten torque is very low, 7 ft/lbs if I recall correctly. Use a radial pattern starting from the middle, working out to the ends.

Also, take time to insure that the flanges are flat, even on a new pan. Couldn't hurt to check with a straight edge.
 
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Refinishing my beat up wheel. After a sticker shock of almost $400 to refinish a single wheel, I took it upon myself to make it okay looking lol just have to paint the areas between the spokes. Used Citrus paint stripper to remove the clear then used 180 grit to sand down the oxidized areas. Finally used a series of 220, 300, 400, 1000, 1500, 2000 and 2500 grit sandpaper. Finished with blue magic polish to see how it would it turn out. Thinking satin black or the grey used on the LX450 cladding to paint the areas between the spokes. Total of 20ish$

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Refinishing my beat up wheel. After a sticker shock of almost $400 to refinish a single wheel, I took it upon myself to make it okay looking lol just have to paint the areas between the spokes. Used Citrus paint stripper to remove the clear then used 180 grit to sand down the oxidized areas. Finally used a series of 220, 300, 400, 1000, 1500, 2000 and 2500 grit sandpaper. Finished with blue magic polish to see how it would it turn out. Thinking satin black or the grey used on the LX450 cladding to paint the areas between the spokes. Total of 20ish$

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What do you plan on using to maintain shine? I did the same thing on the Outlaw IIs on my Taco, but coated them with Collinite 845, a wax used by linemen of old to protect glass insulators on power lines. Also a great car wax. Worked well for one winter season, but not the ultimate protection. Perhaps a quality clear coat...
 
What do you plan on using to maintain shine? I did the same thing on the Outlaw IIs on my Taco, but coated them with Collinite 845, a wax used by linemen of old to protect glass insulators on power lines. Also a great car wax. Worked well for one winter season, but not the ultimate protection. Perhaps a quality clear coat...
I was going to paint the areas inside the spokes then clearcoat the entire wheel. Not sure which clear would hold up to the heat and brake dust though.
 
so after purchasing the new to me LX450, i did notice the valve cover gasket has been leaking for awhile. Started tackling that job in combination with TB cleaning, new plugs and oem wires and a couple new breather hoses which should be here today. cant wait to get in here with some degreaser and a power washer now that i know that its sealed up, It was nice to see how clean the valve train was especially since this is a 282k motor and small signs of OE parts usage is always a plus. Also install a OEM driver door belt molding

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all put back together waiting on PCV valve, grommet, two breather hoses, and plug wires. all should be here today from Toyota

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Got the old pan cleaned up, painted and went back on like a champ. Used some FIPG in the corners only and torqued the new OEM bolts down to 84 in-lbs. I think the last time I did this job was when I used my in-lbs torque wrench last because it was already set to 84. :rolleyes: I got some oil sitting in it now and if I don't see any drips by Friday I'll take it for a spin and see how it looks.

I used high temp engine enamel on the oil pan but also used regular Rustoleum primer. I didn't think about it until later that engine paint probably doesn't need primer. I guess we'll see how it holds up.


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And just for grins here's the new oil pan versus the old pan side by side. Old pan skid mic'd out at .163 inches and the new one .066 inches.

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Woke up to many things to be thankful for. The walls being up on the new garage is just one of them. Trusses are on the ground and should be up Friday if we can get a crane.
Doors are 12 x 9
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12'. And a 4/12 pitch inside, so about 15 to the peak.
Nice. I'm planning my 32x26 attached garage and am always scrounging for ideas and inspiration.
 

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