Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (17 Viewers)

[NearJetties]

My wife decided to use the map pocket as a foot rest and then boosted herself off it while wearing #beanboots () so I took the opportunity to do two other projects involving the door. Added sound/heat insulation from Noico and wired in two relays so the window moves faster than molasses. the label maker even got in on the fun.

the relays made a huge difference. Three more doors to go. The driver door already has relays for that window but you can add relays to help the central door lock switch.

 

[Crusha]

I'll have a NIB OEM oil pan for sale soon.

Damn! I just bought one recently for my ‘78 due to a stripped drain plug.
I’m sure I could have rigged something, but I wanted it done right.
Plus, @shmukster was the installer. Gary hooked me up!

 

[iptman]

I'd say this settles that. I guess the question now is how far should I go cleaning this up. Run it as is, clean and rattle can, get it media blasted? I'd like to not have to do this job for a 3rd time.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Media blasting will not get into the cracks between the skid & pan. So, you'll end up not getting to the rust creeping around the spot welds. I've been using Evaporust on parts, rinse, blow-dry & paint. I've read about people using a rag wetted down with the stuff for frame treatment. For that skid plate, find a under-bed storage bin to pour an inch of Evaporust. Let the pan sit in it while it does it's thing. It will leave a line on the part where the surface of the Evaporust meets the air. So, maybe just enough Evaporust to clear the skid plate.

 

[Stumpalama]

Media blasting will not get into the cracks between the skid & pan. So, you'll end up not getting to the rust creeping around the spot welds. I've been using Evaporust on parts, rinse, blow-dry & paint. I've read about people using a rag wetted down with the stuff for frame treatment. For that skid plate, find a under-bed storage bin to pour an inch of Evaporust. Let the pan sit in it while it does it's thing. It will leave a line on the part where the surface of the Evaporust meets the air. So, maybe just enough Evaporust to clear the skid plate.

Thats a good plan. To add to that, I would just wire wheel the rest of it and prime, paint and reinstall.
The leak you had most likely came from the bolts loosening and oil leaking around the gasket. I had a similar issue and went around and found several bolts were not tight.

 

[iptman]

Thanks guys, I'll hit it with some degreaser and the pressure washer, wire wheel and then the Evaporust. BTW, who sells Evaporust around here? Last time I used it I had to order it online.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Amazon will ship it to you or pick it up from the local Auto Zone or Advanced Auto Parts. I believe Home Depot stocks it. Lowe’s sells Rustoleum’s version of the stuff. I’ve never used it though.

You can reuse the stuff. It’s relatively safe to use and will not damage any good metal. I just pour it back into the container it came in once I’m finished.

Here’s the intermediate shaft from a steering column I’m shortening to accommodate a factory power steering gearbox. I degreased and dipped it in Evaporust to clean the end up. If you look right at the edge of the vice holding the intermediate shaft, you’ll see the line left from dipping the part half-way in some Evaporust. I’ll wipe the part down with a rag soaked in Evaporust to remove the lighter rust left on the part. I’m planning on spaying this with a 2-in-1 primer/paint.

Here’s a before picture:

 

[Stumpalama]

Thanks guys, I'll hit it with some degreaser and the pressure washer, wire wheel and then the Evaporust. BTW, who sells Evaporust around here? Last time I used it I had to order it online.

Harbor freight and HD sell it in store.

 

[Stumpalama]

Got 240V/60A run to my garage so I can run the welder and compressor and additional 120V outlets.
The garage had 1, yes, 1 wall outlet. Cheap spec. house BS.
I ran 6/2 copper from the main breaker up into the garage wall and installed a 8 circuit sub panel i had from a previous project.
Next is to learn a new skill: bending EMT to install the circuits.

 

[shmukster]

I'd say this settles that. I guess the question now is how far should I go cleaning this up. Run it as is, clean and rattle can, get it media blasted? I'd like to not have to do this job for a 3rd time.

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Patrick why screw around re-installing the old pan? If I were you and had a new pan and new OEM gasket on hand I'd use them and toss the old pan. No fun changing an oil pan (although you have it apart already so half the work's done) so why not just use the new stuff and get it past you? When installing a pan I use six 8MM studs, all different lengths and screw them in three on each side. this enables me to be able to slide the new gasket up over the studs and into place, then slide the pan up over the studs. Makes it easy to do a good job without screwing up the corners of the OEM gasket.

 

[iptman]

So gave the new pan a shot but it sure doesn't seem to want to set up there properly. I'm using Felpre Snap-ups this time on @Blue77FJ40 's recommendation (they're pretty amazing BTW) and got the front and back of the gasket set in their channels just right. I got a few bolts started on the PS but I can't catch any threads on the DS. I know I can get some longer bolts and ease it up but it just doesn't seem like everything is fitting together properly. It's almost like the curve of the front and back of the pan isn't the same arch. In the last picture you can see how much of the new gasket is showing which doesn't seem right although I didn't specifically look at this before I pulled old pan and gasket down.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

The cork gasket should stretch in place as you tighten it down. Just make sure to alternate bolts as you gradually tighten down everything.

 

[matzell]

I tried to backfill the outside of my garage foundation. I ended up 4 wheeling and performing a winching recovery!

Needless to say I used my Carolina backhoe(shovel) today and did it by hand, then cleaned the tractor.

 

[matzell]

Pic of foundation

 

[shmukster]

So gave the new pan a shot but it sure doesn't seem to want to set up there properly. I'm using Felpre Snap-ups this time on @Blue77FJ40 's recommendation (they're pretty amazing BTW) and got the front and back of the gasket set in their channels just right. I got a few bolts started on the PS but I can't catch any threads on the DS. I know I can get some longer bolts and ease it up but it just doesn't seem like everything is fitting together properly. It's almost like the curve of the front and back of the pan isn't the same arch. In the last picture you can see how much of the new gasket is showing which doesn't seem right although I didn't specifically look at this before I pulled old pan and gasket down.

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It is common to experience difficulty starting the original screws when replacing an oil pan gasket. I usually use a few slightly longer screws to get the oil pan up into position then use the originals . A few years ago Felix tore the bottom off the oil pan on his 40 at Rausch. I ran home and got him a new gasket and a new oil pan and he couldn't get the screws started to save his life. Took a little assistance to get everything buttoned up but all worked out. Who else remembers that?
As far as I know all F and 2F oil pans have the same bolt pattern/seal area curvature. The baffles are can be different between and F and a 2F engine but as far as I know they way they bolt up and fit is the same. And I can't believe an unmolested factory oil pan would not fit properly. Do you use gasket sealer in the corners of the gasket? I'll be interested to see what you come up with and good luck!!!!!
As an aside my 40 would like to have a brand new oil pan under its' 2F. It still has the oil pan that we had to modify years ago when putting the engine into my sprung over piggy. We had to cut and section the pan in two places to get it to to clear the front axle and steering components.

 

[76FJ40]

I remember that adventure. I left Felix unsupervised for a minute and when I found him he had oil gushing from his oil pan. Luckily, Gary came to the rescue with a new oil pan and OEM gasket.

 

[Jakes40]

Got 240V/60A run to my garage so I can run the welder and compressor and additional 120V outlets.
The garage had 1, yes, 1 wall outlet. Cheap spec. house BS.
I ran 6/2 copper from the main breaker up into the garage wall and installed a 8 circuit sub panel i had from a previous project.
Next is to learn a new skill: bending EMT to install the circuits.

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I've got to do this I have plenty of 110 outlets but need a couple 220. Just got to get around to it. I've got EMT benders if you need them. Bending ain't hard if you keep it simple.

 

[Stumpalama]

I started bending box offsets in my 3/4", then realized no one has any 3/4" box connectors. It's crazy HD has 3/4 conduit but no connectors. And they have no 1/2 conduit but a bunch of connectors.

 

[Stumpalama]

I started bending box offsets in my 3/4", then realized no one has any 3/4" box connectors. It's crazy HD has 3/4 conduit but no connectors. And they have no 1/2 conduit but a bunch of connectors.

I'm making a run of 3/4 for my 2 conductors of 8 gauge wire for the welder and 2 conductors of 10 gauge for the compressor.
I plan to run a handful of 120v outlets using 12 gaug wire and 1/2" EMT.

 

[iptman]

With all you guys working on shops, think we should have a dedicated "Workshops" CLCC thread? I'm in early planning stages on a barn/workshop and it would be nice to have a sounding board thread in here and also see what you all are doing for different related aspects of building or updating a shop.