Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (3 Viewers)

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Rebuilt rear axle and suspension is back in the truck. Just need to install the driveshafts and bleed the brakes then I’ll take it in to get an alignment.

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Not enough room for a helicoil. Screw is an 8MM (appx .332" diam), if the threads are rocked out I'd go with a 3/8-24 (.375"). Next metric size up would be a 10MM or about .390" diam. Looking forward to see just what you do. These threads are often ruined by overtightening the bolt- there's certainly not much meat there to withstand overtightening.
 
Was crawling under my fathers fj60 and found this 👎🏻
Is it possible to patch just the rusted area or does the entire section with the leaf spring hanger need to be replaced since they are so close together?

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Was crawling under my fathers fj60 and found this 👎🏻
Is it possible to patch just the rusted area or does the entire section with the leaf spring hanger need to be replaced since they are so close together?

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to be safe I would cut it all out and weld in new steel. if there is a hole that close its shot behind the hanger and body mount.
 
@mwalls54 thanks for teh input. I felt around on the inside of the frame in that area and it doesn't have any holes. Father is trying to figure out what to do with the truck, hes mentioned selling it before but every time I talk about it he kicks the can down the road. I know Lance @ iron pig had a decent 60 series frame in his boneyard, maybe a frame swap is in order. . . .
 
I'm planning on replacing the brake booster on my 40 with the one I got from @Racer65. Can I just use a straight edge to make sure the piston is adjusted correctly or do I need the SST to do it right.
 
That looks like a Belleview with the mechanical actuator, which is the predecessor to the 8274. Parts could be harder to locate and the clutch cover appears to be missing so that needs to be addressed. Warn parts are reasonable as long as they have what you need. It needs some TLC but these are rarely a boat anchors given the cost of new ones. Does the motor turn? Plan on replacing the solenoids with an Albright as well. Bottom line, how much in time and parts are you willing to spend on it? The purchase price should be very low, in the <$350 range in my opinion.
 
Was crawling under my fathers fj60 and found this 👎🏻
Is it possible to patch just the rusted area or does the entire section with the leaf spring hanger need to be replaced since they are so close together?

Started chasing rust like that on my pickup. Patched a hole for inspection the first year. Patched a hole for inspection the second year... Well, you get the idea. Third year I took a needle scaler to the frame to see how much was crusty. Opened up a hole in the outside of the frame about the length of the passenger side door that I didn't even know about - the patched holes were back by the doglegs.

My solution - weld up a frame:
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I'm planning on replacing the brake booster on my 40 with the one I got from @Racer65. Can I just use a straight edge to make sure the piston is adjusted correctly or do I need the SST to do it right.

I’m planning on doing the same thing when I reach phase 2 of operation 40. Keep us updated, would like to know how that booster works out for ya.
 
I took the 40 out the other day and found a leaking fuel line dripping on a coolant line which was causing it the clamp to loosen up and leak. In the process found an incorrect (but functioning) fuel pump so I replaced that with the correct version. The fuel line and clamps are en route and I bought a replacement coolant hose from City Racer since the OEM hose is NLA. I tightened up that clamp and it stopped leaking so I may just leave it. It looks like a bear to swap out so hopefully it'll be fine without gas dripping on it.

With the 40 in the garage I decided to finally install this exhaust insulator and heat tube that goes up under the intake. I bought this from @65swb45 probably 5 years ago and it's been sitting in the shelf collecting dust.

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Well fellas, here’s the big reveal. Finished my Covid-19 40 project and got her back on the road. Basically, everything south of the transfer case has been rebuilt/replaced. Summary of work accomplished:

Replaced bent front axle housing
New chromoly front axles
Rebuilt knuckles
New Aisin locking hubs
Replaced incorrect front driveshaft with OEM DS
New OME 2.5” springs, shocks, steering stabilizer
New U-bolt skid plates
New NiCopp brake lines
New Nitro rear axles
Refurbished OEM white wagon wheels
New 33x10.5 BFG KM3’s
New CCOT 8274 winch bumper
New Warn 8274-70 10,000lb winch
Factor 55 flat splicer shackle mount
Hard top removed - Trollhole bikini top on the way
All parts taken down to bare metal, primed, painted

The plan right now is to get some recovery gear, drive this thing for a while, and explore the New Mexico off road. This fall/winter I plan on pulling the engine/trans/t-case and addressing numerous issues there. But for now the 40 runs and drives great so I’m going to enjoy it!

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I had SAIS failure recently on the 100 series that threw the CEL codes for one valve stuck open and one stuck closed. I ordered the bypass kit from Hewitt Tech which did the trick. The blockoff plates really suck to get to for that install, but it’s done.

My bumper and skid plates finally arrived from dissent. The bumper pieces hopefully get dropped off at Sandblast America tomorrow.
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