Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks (3 Viewers)

[airon23]

After reading through some of this thread, I took some laquer thinner to that section of the top I posted above. Really wishing I hadn't of done that, but I guess I'm kind of committed at this point. I'm just going to wait to go forward until someone gives me their thoughts.
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Is it me or does it seem like the original paint color was white anyway? Can you look under the dash or other spots to confirm? You might have a white on white color FJ40.

 

[airon23]

I don’t remember anyone saying to use thinner on the paint unless you are trying to get spray paint off original paint.

The brown is OEM primmer. It’s actually dark red. You either have to paint the truck or oil the truck. Wax won’t work.

To my untrained eye, it looks like several different layers. Green on redish/brown on green on white.

 

[dr335i]

Is it me or does it seem like the original paint color was white anyway? Can you look under the dash or other spots to confirm? You might have a white on white color FJ40.

I totally thought it was a total repaint when I took the top off. It certainly looks like one but the VIN plate under the hood confirms rustic green

 

[Dizzy]

Ok so I just bought this 79 FJ40. 44k original miles and (supposedly) original paint. The guy who had it before me (he only had it for a week before I got it off him) did something to the hood, fender, and flare to make it look like it has. He said he used a paint scraper and took off a layer of the paint. I've tried varrying things to try and get the rest of the truck to come back but I'm not having much luck. I've tried CLR and a green scotchbrite pad on one of the doors that didn't seem to have any effect.

It's clear to me that he ran a buffer over most of the truck and there was a lot of dried compound on it that I had to pressure wash off. The paint is very rough to the touch and textured so I'm not real sure how great of a job a buffer would do. Polish seems to have no effect. What's worse is theres these big brown spots that I'm not sure what they are, but a pressure washer definitely makes them bigger. I find it hard to believe that its the original paint being stripped away and thats whats underneath but it's definitely possible. Any tips for what I should do to make this thing look better?

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That looks good. I'd not worry about any of the past mistakes. Adds character. I like Boeshield, as a solvent that deposits paraffin wax. It gets a paper rub down after it dries a week later. The spray version is horrible, except in the summer heat, the nozzle always gets stuck The rest of this thread likes Fluid Film. Polishing compound might be hard to remove, physically.

 

[6f40j9]

I started reading, got ~5 pages in and thought I’d ask...
I need to get rid of the tan/grey/whatever color is on top of the blue, and bring it back as much as possible.
It looks like lacquer thinner might be a starting point?
Some of the paint is starting to flake off, but not easily.
There is bondo on the driver rear corner that is going to come off as well.
I’m going to pressure wash it when I can, and go from there, but any paint removal tips (while saving the original paint as much as possible) are welcome.

 

[6f40j9]

someone started to sand the door down already (past the blue I think )

 

[Dizzy]

Acetone for rattle can removal.

 

[camino70]

Try small sections with different methods.
I found easy off oven cleaner working best for my po's rattle can paint job

 

[jakey poo]

^^^ This but don't leave it on too long, it can eat OEM paint if it sits for an extended period

 

[6f40j9]

Started with lacquer thinner and purple scotchbrite. There is progress, just hard to tell from the different angles.

 

[Ocho77]

Pressure washer, razor blades, easy-off.

 

[6f40j9]

Last one. There’s tan, light blue, dark grey, then OG smurf blue.
Small progress, but loving seeing the original paint come out.

 

[sokoloka]

Patina question for all you experts - the white coat on my fiberglass top is getting chalky and starting to show through to the bare fiberglass in patches. What's the best way to seal this all up and get some life back into it?

Or should I bite the bullet and paint the hardtop lid?

Older photo, can't really see the hardtop issues:

 

[Dizzy]

Meguiars for my painted fiberglass. It seemed to control the white getting on my '75 yellow.

 

[sokoloka]

Meguiars for my painted fiberglass. It seemed to control the white getting on my '75 yellow.

Thanks! Wax or some other product? I'm starting to notice the chalkiness occasionally running down and streaking on mustard cowl here and there.

 

[Dizzy]

I'm just using their usual wax. However, there are RV and boat formulas for fiberglass, which I haven't tried.

 

[7schulz]

Fluid film ftw

 

[roadstr6]

@sokoloka The top cap on one of my 40's was painted black when I first got it (yuck). I lightly sanded it and spray bombed it with Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy in Biscuit color. That paint goes on smooth and buttery and lays down nice and flat and it is a real close match for the factory color. It has held up nicely for several years now. I also used it on the bezel. The rest of the truck I spray bombed with Rustoleum flat khaki. I would think that top coating what you have with this rattle can paint should seal yours back up and last a while.

Here's the paint I used for the top and bezel:

Amazon product ASIN B000C028FI


Before:

After:

 

[roadstr6]

Holy double-tap pic attachment, Batman! Sorry for that. I edited my post to include the link to the paint and it reloaded all the pics!

 

[Danforth]

I believe this is my favorite thread on the whole site.