Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks (1 Viewer)

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Liam, I sent you a text but for all I will post my opinion here.


First do a super good wash with dishsoap and a cotton towel, scrubbing well to get embedded grime and some of the chalked paint off and ready to polish. Meguiars makes great products pretty reasonable so try their "Ultimate Compound" on a cotton cloth and hand buff the paint. You will be amazed at how well it works. You are going to see a lot of red on the towell - this is the chalky paint from UV degradation that has to come off anyway. You can do it again with "Ultimate Polish" to get even more shine. With luck you won't have too many thin spots but they are unavoidable if the paint is that far gone (at least it looks cool).

For red paint regular carnuba wax is great and affordable. The liquid is easier to work with but paste is fine too. The wax will bring out the shine but more importantly it will block UV and act as clear coat does on newer 2 stage paint. Where you live with that intense sunshine that is a big deal.

I've tried expensive clay bar kits and I don't really think they are worth the money, just scrub really well when washing.

Hope it shines up nice!
 
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My name is Liam, I’m 17 years old, I come from a cruiser family, and I’ve been saving up to buy my own truck for awhile now. Found this 1980 Hilux pickup while biking in my neighborhood and got in touch with the owner through a mutual friend. It’s a 4spd 20R w/ PS and AC. Bought it today and drove it home like I stole it, these little pickups are a blast haha. Stumbled across your thread awhile ago and seems to me like this truck is the perfect candidate for patina preservation. What would you recommend? CLR scrub and fluid film?

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Congrats!! That's a sweet Pickup!
 
It’s has begun....
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Soakin
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hOOter
 
I have a 68 fj40 that had a cheaper paint job 15 or so years ago... it's red and covering up the original red. Any recommendations on how to get it back to the original color? Also, where did you get those seats?!
There are some other oils I have seen suggested here in my other threads but BLO is cheap and it works fine.

Some safety ranger will always pop in and say wadded up used BLO rags will spontaneously combust so don’t wad your rags up.

That being said I’ve done my damndest to make this happen and have not been successful.


I recommend this over a clear coat because a clear will trap the rust just like paint would.

Once I do the initial treatment I find that I have to rub a bit more on every few months.

View attachment 1813119

Edit: I have moved to using Fluid Film in place of Boiled Linseed Oil these days. I like the consistency better and it is not tacky like the BLO.

Experiment with both. BLO is cheap and Fluid Film is too if you buy it by the gallon.


I have a 68 fj40 that had a cheaper paint job 15 or so years ago... it's red and covering up the original red. Any recommendations on how to get i
There are some other oils I have seen suggested here in my other threads but BLO is cheap and it works fine.

Some safety ranger will always pop in and say wadded up used BLO rags will spontaneously combust so don’t wad your rags up.

That being said I’ve done my damndest to make this happen and have not been successful.


I recommend this over a clear coat because a clear will trap the rust just like paint would.

Once I do the initial treatment I find that I have to rub a bit more on every few months.

View attachment 1813119

Edit: I have moved to using Fluid Film in place of Boiled Linseed Oil these days. I like the consistency better and it is not tacky like the BLO.

Experiment with both. BLO is cheap and Fluid Film is too if you buy it by the gallon.
There are some other oils I have seen suggested here in my other threads but BLO is cheap and it works fine.

Some safety ranger will always pop in and say wadded up used BLO rags will spontaneously combust so don’t wad your rags up.

That being said I’ve done my damndest to make this happen and have not been successful.


I recommend this over a clear coat because a clear will trap the rust just like paint would.

Once I do the initial treatment I find that I have to rub a bit more on every few months.

View attachment 1813119

Edit: I have moved to using Fluid Film in place of Boiled Linseed Oil these days. I like the consistency better and it is not tacky like the BLO.

Experiment with both. BLO is cheap and Fluid Film is too if you buy it by the gallon.

I have a 68 fj40 that had a cheaper paint job 15 or so years ago... it's red and covering up the original red. Any recommendations on how to get it back to the original color? Also, where did you get those seats?!
 
I have a 68 fj40 that had a cheaper paint job 15 or so years ago... it's red and covering up the original red. Any recommendations on how to get it back to the original color? Also, where did you get those seats?!



I have a 68 fj40 that had a cheaper paint job 15 or so years ago... it's red and covering up the original red. Any recommendations on how to get i



I have a 68 fj40 that had a cheaper paint job 15 or so years ago... it's red and covering up the original red. Any recommendations on how to get it back to the original color? Also, where did you get those seats?!

Let’s see pictures
 
I’ve been working on this one to get ready to sell.

Lots of fun. 39,000 mile Texas Ranch truck.

CLR and 000 Steel Wool then a good Fluid Film rubdown.

This truck was obviously sanded at some point and then they added some bondo and a bad red paint job that just faded right back off.

Great solid truck with a ton on small complete unicorn things like OEM seatbelts, compete knobs, original red seats

Build thread is “Texas Reds” In the 40 section

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People often wonder why I love using Fluid Film on the frames and axles on my trucks even though I live in the south, far far away from salty roads.

So, this is the my FJ45 frame that had one treatment way back in February 2018

This frame literally had surface rust on 100% of the surfaces even though it lived in the Arizona mountain deserts for 47 years

I have not put any paint on the frame at all.

Before

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This section of the frame is where I could not get to it to clean and spray due to the drivetrain being in the way

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This is what it looks like 2.5 years later after a good pressure wash after pretty much being coated with dust and mud the entire time

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Case closed
 
Looks awesome. What kind of prep did you do to the frame between pic 1 and the good looking pics? Wire wheel, sandblasting, etc?

People often wonder why I love using Fluid Film on the frames and axles on my trucks even though I live in the south, far far away from salty roads.

So, this is the my FJ45 frame that had one treatment way back in February 2018

This frame literally had surface rust on 100% of the surfaces even though it lived in the Arizona mountain deserts for 47 years

I have not put any paint on the frame at all.

...

Case closed
 
Looks awesome. What kind of prep did you do to the frame between pic 1 and the good looking pics? Wire wheel, sandblasting, etc?

Thats my point. Nothing. I mean, it was cleaned before I hosed it with Fluid Film but just by washing it. If there was a large place of crust I may have hit it with a paint scraper.
 
Thats my point. Nothing. I mean, it was cleaned before I hosed it with Fluid Film but just by washing it. If there was a large place of crust I may have hit it with a paint scraper.

That's amazing. Looks way better than the flaky rubber coating on my frame. Might have to give that a try.
 
People often wonder why I love using Fluid Film on the frames and axles on my trucks even though I live in the south, far far away from salty roads.

So, this is the my FJ45 frame that had one treatment way back in February 2018

This frame literally had surface rust on 100% of the surfaces even though it lived in the Arizona mountain deserts for 47 years

I have not put any paint on the frame at all.

Before

View attachment 2393548

This section of the frame is where I could not get to it to clean and spray due to the drivetrain being in the way

View attachment 2393547

This is what it looks like 2.5 years later after a good pressure wash after pretty much being coated with dust and mud the entire time

View attachment 2393545
View attachment 2393546

Case closed

Awesome. That's how I keep them rust free up here! Just takes some time every year and diligence, and they will remain rust free, even driving them in the winter.
 
Thanks for all the info here. Figured as a show of appreciation I'd post before/after pictures and thoughts from my experience.

  • All in all happy with the results. My 40 had a pretty severe two-tone effect going given a redone/resprayed tub. No big deal but this process led to a more even and saturated look... at least for now. Ya dig it? Looks aside I'm hoping this helps to preserve what I got.
  • CLR wash - It was a hot, dry and windy day. I CLR'ed before washing, so by the time I got back to where I had started the CLR was pretty well cooked and left some residue or uneven coloration. Some of that might have been hiding under the dust/crud... who knows. After the CLR scrub, I hosed/scrubbed down with water. Next time I'll CLR/rinse in sections or opt for milder weather.
  • Rust converter - I used Loctite Rust Neutralizer. Brushed it on thick (thicker than instructed... because beer) and wasn't overly careful about applying to rust only versus paint. My zeal in this step is most apparent in the tub, which was/is thoroughly rusted. Might go back and hit this with CLR or stronger (acetone?) and coarse scotch-brite to get rid of excess. No BLO applied to tub.
  • BLO - Went pretty thick with this too because same as above. Probably fine as is unless someone suggests otherwise.

Before:

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After:

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Ok so I just bought this 79 FJ40. 44k original miles and (supposedly) original paint. The guy who had it before me (he only had it for a week before I got it off him) did something to the hood, fender, and flare to make it look like it has. He said he used a paint scraper and took off a layer of the paint. I've tried varrying things to try and get the rest of the truck to come back but I'm not having much luck. I've tried CLR and a green scotchbrite pad on one of the doors that didn't seem to have any effect.

It's clear to me that he ran a buffer over most of the truck and there was a lot of dried compound on it that I had to pressure wash off. The paint is very rough to the touch and textured so I'm not real sure how great of a job a buffer would do. Polish seems to have no effect. What's worse is theres these big brown spots that I'm not sure what they are, but a pressure washer definitely makes them bigger. I find it hard to believe that its the original paint being stripped away and thats whats underneath but it's definitely possible. Any tips for what I should do to make this thing look better?

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After reading through some of this thread, I took some laquer thinner to that section of the top I posted above. Really wishing I hadn't of done that, but I guess I'm kind of committed at this point. I'm just going to wait to go forward until someone gives me their thoughts.
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After reading through some of this thread, I took some laquer thinner to that section of the top I posted above. Really wishing I hadn't of done that, but I guess I'm kind of committed at this point. I'm just going to wait to go forward until someone gives me their thoughts.
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I don’t remember anyone saying to use thinner on the paint unless you are trying to get spray paint off original paint.

The brown is OEM primmer. It’s actually dark red. You either have to paint the truck or oil the truck. Wax won’t work.
 

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