Prepping a High Mileage 80 for a 10K Mile Road Trip

[foeix]

Road Trip Complete - Pics etc start on page 3: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/prepping-a-high-mileage-80-for-a-10k-mile-road-trip.782671/page-3

I have a rare chance to take some considerable time off next summer. The plan is to load up the 80 and spend July and August out West with my wife. The majority of our time will be spent in Montana, Idaho, Oregon, SW Colorado and Northern Nevada. Lots and lots of highway miles - but also a lot of back country two track.

I am in the midst of getting my 80 squared away and would welcome any advice. Here is a run down of where she is now - and what I was planning on doing.

1997 FZJ80 - Purchased 6/2010 out of Arizona w/ 152K miles

History

• Fluids Replaced - Diffs, Transfer, Transmission - 154K
• Radiator Replaced, Thermostat, PHH and coolant lines replaced - 160K
• Front Knuckles Rebuilt, new bearings, seals etc - 165K
• Head Gasket Replaced as PM, Head decked, valve job - 175K
• Fuel Injectors cleaned and balanced - 175K
• New F Rotors, Brake Pads All Around - 175K
• New Belts - 175K
• New Power Steering pump, Upper & Lower Hoses - 175K
• Wheel Bearings repacked - 175K
• Diffs, TCase fluids replaced - 175K
• New AGM Battery - 180K

Right now the truck is at 181K. She is running well, no leaks, or issues. The PM / mods I was looking at:

• Replace Starter Contacts
• Replace Alternator Brushes
• Replace Fuel Pump Sock
• Replace all soft brake lines
• Adding a second battery
• New BGF AT - 285/75r16

Anything else I should consider taking care of? I feel pretty good about the truck overall - but would love to get it as reliable as possible. The most intense wheeling will be in the San Juans - think Yankee Boy Basin, Imogene etc. Definitely more ExPo than crawling.

Obligatory Recent Pic:

 

[MLX450]

Fan clutch, spare fusible links. How are the spark plugs and wires?

 

[foeix]

Fan clutch, spare fusible links. How are the spark plugs and wires?

Good call.

Plugs were replaced when HG came out at 175K. Fan Clutch was replaced at 140K miles by PO. Wires were replaced by PO in 2008 at 140K. I should probably replace those as insurance.

Also good call on the Fusible Links - thinking I should put in new and keep the current ones as spares.

 

[MLX450]

Looks like you are in good shape. How about lubricating the front and rear drive shafts? What kind of AGM battery do you have? I guess its hit or miss with these types of batteries.
Nice 80. I love the license plate!

 

[94SRUNNER]

Why are you going to add a second battery? Are you installing a winch or a fridge?

As for the fan clutch, what brand did the PO replace it with?

Overall you have got your maintenance dialed it! What is your suspension looking like? Maybe i missed it posted above?

 

[foeix]

Looks like you are in good shape. How about lubricating the front and rear drive shafts? What kind of AGM battery do you have? I guess its hit or miss with these types of batteries.
Nice 80. I love the license plate!

10-4 on keeping the DS lubed. Forgot to throw in new U-Joints as well at 160K.

I went with an Autozone Duralast - which is a rebranded Deka Intimidator. Went with the advice from here - https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/610857-battery-information.html - its a 34R.

Thanks for the kind words - gotta show some love for the 1FZ-FE tractor engine.

Why are you going to add a second battery? Are you installing a winch or a fridge?

As for the fan clutch, what brand did the PO replace it with?

Overall you have got your maintenance dialed it! What is your suspension looking like? Maybe i missed it posted above?

I am going to add a fridge - specifically looking at the TruckFridge TF41- http://www.truckfridge.com/tf41.html - which is supposedly a Indel rebranced. Also planning on running an inverter.

I have gone back and forth on a RTT but I think I am going to build a full lenth low profile sleeping platform and pull the rear seats.

Fan cluth is OEM - and truck has been excellent temp wise for the past few years. Even in 110 heat up hill I have not seen it above 200 more than once or twice. Loves to sit between 181 and 190 per the scanguage.

Shocks are new OEM Tokico - with original worn out springs. I have Air Bags in the rear. Plan is to swap in 8261 and 8262 OME Stock Height springs soon.

A few more photos:

 

[nukegoat]

You'll be fine. I don't blame you for overthinking it, but I doubt you'll run into any issues with what you described.

 

[elhombre]

Only other thing I might replace is the fuel pump relay. Seems like they do go out especially with that many miles.

 

[coastsider]

Road trip--yes

I did the same thing a few years ago with the kids except we went from west to east. Hit 25 states and around 15k miles in two months and the wife flew to hook up with us for a few weeks. Your truck is what I consider low mileage. Ive got 352000 and just rebuilt the knuckes for the first time last week (it started clicking on hard right turns). I did the head gasket at 285000 just because I wanted to as I hear stories of how they dont last that long, it still has the crosshatching on the cyl walls and the hg was still good but it was my idea of fun to do it.
If you have taken care of it then I would say you are good to go. The number 1 thing that I would do to prevent trouble is replace the radiator and the cooling hoses, most importantly is the pesky heater hose and the one that comes into the back of the throttle body those can be a PIA and I would not want to do the phh on the side of the road. I replace my radiator between 100k and 150k as preventative maintenance, these motors run hot and heat is what will shorten your HG and engine life overall. Dont just give the radiator a good look and flush, they rot from the inside out, on this item you can use an aftermarket from a good radiator shop if you dont have a line on heavily discountd oem parts. Only under emergency situations would I use carquest, kragen, pep boys etc... Parts, be proud of your beast and use only oem parts, these things were highly engineered and have a good reputation for durability but they werent built with cheap parts so if you use cheap parts then you dont really have a land cruiser the way it was designed.
As far as packing list just make sure you take a comfortable gathering of tools (dont forget a multimeter), factory service manual including the wiring manual is a must (I'm not talking about chilton/haynes although those are good for additional point of view wording) and you should be fine. Make sure that you make provision to change your oil a couple of times, I change mine every 3500 with the filter every other time and I use Castrol gtx since day 1. I bought the oil, filter and sealable catch container for recycleing used oil at the same auto parts store that I bought it from (I did it behind their buildings, not in the front lot as they usually frown on that) and dont forget to pack some blue gloves. Stopping at speedy is an option but I dont trust anyone to work on my truck, last thing you need is a High School dropout under/over torqueing your drain plug in the middle of Kansas. I dont know that I would pack to much as far as parts, I mean that you can pack a bunch of crap and sure enough if something happens, you wont have what broke. Plus I have had my rig for a couple of decades and I have never blown a fusable link (sure as hell itll blow one in the morning) just make sure things are tidy, no messy looking wire bundles, dried hoses etc... Im an aircraft mechanic so I may be a little anal about keeping a eye on how well its running but one thing that I have learned is that a land cruiser will let you know if something isnt right before it leaves you stranded, you just have to pay attention to it.
I also run 285/75-16 BFG Mud terrains, I have 97,xxx miles on them now and probably a good 10k to go before I wouldnt trust them on snow. Have them balanced before you leave and every 25k or so if you want to keep parts from wearing (my first wheel bearing change last week but only becase I had it apart for the birfields). Might also want to order a bunch of oem vacume hose (find p/n's for some long hoses here on mud) and replace them all to make sure things are tight vacuum wise. Of course change all fluids and filters. Remember you aren't going through Africa, it's just the Western US and Toyota parts departments are in every city with auto parts stores in every village.
Sorry to ramble especially since I'm on my daughters ipad (touchscreens aren't my thing). I'm rather excited for you to roadtrip in your LC, we had fun and stayed off the beaten track so that we could see the biggest ball of string and the worlds largest gopher (save your five bucks, it's a ground hog!). I wouldn't hesitate to leave on a cross country trip tomorrow even with 352,000 miles on the odo, although the wife and I are going to wait until the kids are out of the house, as teenagers they whine too much. If you do end up with some issues, just ask yourself, "what would MacGyver do?" The answer is simpler than you think and the LC won't leave you stranded. Have fun, Cheers

 

[half k cruiser]

Your truck sounds pretty squared away to me. Btw, the picture you have of water crossing through the forest, where was that taken ?

 

[foeix]

Only other thing I might replace is the fuel pump relay. Seems like they do go out especially with that many miles.

Good idea - I will add that in.

I did the same thing a few years ago with the kids except we went from west to east. Hit 25 states and around 15k miles in two months and the wife flew to hook up with us for a few weeks. Your truck is what I consider low mileage. Ive got 352000 and just rebuilt the knuckes for the first time last week (it started clicking on hard right turns). I did the head gasket at 285000 just because I wanted to as I hear stories of how they dont last that long, it still has the crosshatching on the cyl walls and the hg was still good but it was my idea of fun to do it...... Cheers

Thank you for the overview - very helpful.

Your truck sounds pretty squared away to me. Btw, the picture you have of water crossing through the forest, where was that taken ?

That was taken on Rough Run Road (FDR87) north of Brandywine WV in the GW National Forest.

 

[EricG]

Looks really solid!

I'd carry a spare EFI & fuel pump relay in addition to the fusible links. EFI relay is cheap, FPR, not so much.
How about the distributor cap & rotor?

Some folks have had trouble with the wiring harness near the EGR - when I was in the vicinity recently I inspected it and wrapped some additional insulation around the harness and a tie to keep it away - the plastic clip can break. That one will leave you dead in the water.

Fuel filter - wouldn't be the top of my list, but if you're looking to do some cussing...

Print out the troubleshooting guide from the FAQ.

How about comfort, safety and convenience?
If you're still running the stock headlights, I'd highly recommend switching to HIR bulbs. Huge difference.
LED bulbs in the interior lights make a big difference as well, and can help save you from a dead battery if you leave the overheads on by accident.
I'd look into the various cup-holder mods for that kind of seat time as well.

 

[foeix]

Looks really solid!

I'd carry a spare EFI & fuel pump relay in addition to the fusible links. EFI relay is cheap, FPR, not so much.
How about the distributor cap & rotor?

Thanks - will definitely add to the list.

Some folks have had trouble with the wiring harness near the EGR - when I was in the vicinity recently I inspected it and wrapped some additional insulation around the harness and a tie to keep it away - the plastic clip can break. That one will leave you dead in the water.

Fuel filter - wouldn't be the top of my list, but if you're looking to do some cussing...

Both were thankfully addressed while dealing with the HG.

Print out the troubleshooting guide from the FAQ.

How about comfort, safety and convenience?
If you're still running the stock headlights, I'd highly recommend switching to HIR bulbs. Huge difference.
LED bulbs in the interior lights make a big difference as well, and can help save you from a dead battery if you leave the overheads on by accident.
I'd look into the various cup-holder mods for that kind of seat time as well.

HIRs are in, good call on the interior LEDs and cup holders.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

I've got 338,xxx miles on my rig and I don't think twice about taking her anywhere at the drop of a hat

And you've done WAY more PM work than I have

 

[half k cruiser]

Might be a good time to refresh the AC system if you havn't done so already. New expansion valve, drier, O-rings and shrader valve cores. A little over a hundred bucks including having someone charge it up for you.

 

[jcardona1]

I know you replaced the belts recently, but I'd carry a brand new OEM set just in case. I do. Cheap insurance. I also carry fusible links and EFI relays which were mentioned. Along with fuses, hose clamps, zip ties, duct tape, vacuum tubing, heater hose.

I really don't think there's anything else you need to do to the truck, or can do. You've got it covered. Just take some tools and few misc parts and have fun!

I recently added extra knuckle studs and hub studs to my kit, along with all the nuts, washers and cone washers. But that would depend on what type of terrain you'll be hitting.

 

[Jonny D]

just like coastsider PHH. I had to do mine on side of road and you do Not want to do that. otherwise you sound good. if you get in trouble just post real time and I'm sure mud can help.

 

[86tuning]

Your truck sounds pretty squared away to me.

Yep. Only thing I would add is that you should FINISH any modifications at least a month or two before your trip so that everything will be sorted out well before the trip.

I never do any repairs or mods before a trip. Things like your dual battery should be done now so that any problems will surface near home and not on your trip.

10k isn't that far, I wouldn't hesitate to do that tomorrow with my vehicle. And you've done more PM than I have. Other than my exhaust rattle that would annoy me to death I would be okay. And so will you.

Spares I'd consider:
- quart of oil
- fusible link set
- EFI relay and a few spare fuses.

Everything else is avail from a Toyota dealership with minimal delay, so I wouldn't sweat it. I would probably drive into a Toyota dealership half way thru the trip for a lube service with tire rotation and quick inspection. But be aware that some techs get carried away with recommendations.

 

[Brentbba]

Nice work - only suggestion I'd make is to consider braided stainless steel brake lines if you're going to replace your soft lines anyway. Slee makes a great package on those...at least he used to a few years ago.

 

[jcardona1]

Nice work - only suggestion I'd make is to consider braided stainless steel brake lines if you're going to replace your soft lines anyway. Slee makes a great package on those...at least he used to a few years ago.

I did a bit of research on these. Most were not happy and recommend sticking with OEM lines. That's my next project. I'll be using OEM Toyota lines from other trucks to achieve the extended length. Figure if the originals were good for nearly two decades you can't go wrong with OEM rubber...