I have to admit, I prefer this answer... I'm not as industrious as slc. Probably would lose some power tho?
Power Windows and Door Locks--Permanent Fix!
- Thread starter slcfj62
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I have to admit, I prefer this answer... I'm not as industrious as slc. Probably would lose some power tho?
- Thread starter
- #82
You can always try it. If it works to your satisfaction, who can argue with that?
The power that is coming into the window motor remains the same (from the stock harness) - the relays are essentially replacing the old worn old switch in the door and using the poor circuit it creates to activate the relay and create a solid circuit..
A solid ground contact is critical, I tested different ground points and decided there was no difference so I used the screws holding the window motor to my door as a clean, solid ground on my truck..
A solid ground contact is critical, I tested different ground points and decided there was no difference so I used the screws holding the window motor to my door as a clean, solid ground on my truck..
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2009
- Messages
- 369
Bumping this thread with a question as I have an issue with my locks:
So this past weekend all locks stopped working except the drivers side. Goes up and down with no problem but the rest do not.
I pulled the front pass. side panel off and used my power probe to test. The motor is getting power for lock/unlock but the motor does not budge. Again, using my power probe I gave the motor power/ground and it works correctly in both directions. This means there is not enough power being sent to the motor.
I installed 2 relays in the drivers door and there is still not enough juice going to the other locks to operate them.
I want to start tracing back these power lock wiring.
The voltage from the battery/alternator is good. With the car running, lights on, and hitting the door locks im definitely seeing over 12 volts. Even 11 volts would be enough to pop the locks up/down but that isnt happening.
Does anyone know where the main ground point for the door lock system is located ?
So this past weekend all locks stopped working except the drivers side. Goes up and down with no problem but the rest do not.
I pulled the front pass. side panel off and used my power probe to test. The motor is getting power for lock/unlock but the motor does not budge. Again, using my power probe I gave the motor power/ground and it works correctly in both directions. This means there is not enough power being sent to the motor.
I installed 2 relays in the drivers door and there is still not enough juice going to the other locks to operate them.
I want to start tracing back these power lock wiring.
The voltage from the battery/alternator is good. With the car running, lights on, and hitting the door locks im definitely seeing over 12 volts. Even 11 volts would be enough to pop the locks up/down but that isnt happening.
Does anyone know where the main ground point for the door lock system is located ?
- Thread starter
- #85
Are the relays you are talking about my power door lock mod? If so, did the symptoms change at all after the mod? All the door lock solenoids (excepting the rear hatch) are wired in parallel. Assuming the power door lock mod is wired correctly, if your drivers door power lock works, but the others don't, it is probably a wire or connector problem (since the solenoid is actuating correctly with test power, but not when you put it back in the circuit). I had that problem with my two back doors. Using some electrical contact cleaner fixed that (talking about the connector where the solenoid plugs into the vehicle wiring.)
The door lock ground is the A-pillar ground up under the dash right behind the two bolts you see when you open the door and look between the end of the dash and the A-piller.
If you did the relay mod to the power door locks, post up a pic that shows the relay wires connecting to the lock switch and connector just to double check things.
The door lock ground is the A-pillar ground up under the dash right behind the two bolts you see when you open the door and look between the end of the dash and the A-piller.
If you did the relay mod to the power door locks, post up a pic that shows the relay wires connecting to the lock switch and connector just to double check things.
fj62 locks and windows- a great fix
thanks for the write up, this is awesome news that they can be fixed. i attributed it to just being an old truck, and hell, it was electric window and electric door locks in 1988!
i have a keyless entry, and they tapped into the wires that you recommended cutting. the two wires cut, are then spliced into 4 wires added, and sent through the grommet, and into the spaghetti under the dash..... to the alarm/keyless entry receiver i am assuming.
any thoughts on how to incorporate the relays into this?
I was in the midst of sound dampening, deadening and decoupling sound on my landcruiser, after doing a diesel conversion, and the doors are going to get a couple good layers of sound deadening, and be closed up. so i wanted to deal with switches, tracks, guides channels, and relays, before closing up. thanks for any help!
thanks for the write up, this is awesome news that they can be fixed. i attributed it to just being an old truck, and hell, it was electric window and electric door locks in 1988!
i have a keyless entry, and they tapped into the wires that you recommended cutting. the two wires cut, are then spliced into 4 wires added, and sent through the grommet, and into the spaghetti under the dash..... to the alarm/keyless entry receiver i am assuming.
any thoughts on how to incorporate the relays into this?
I was in the midst of sound dampening, deadening and decoupling sound on my landcruiser, after doing a diesel conversion, and the doors are going to get a couple good layers of sound deadening, and be closed up. so i wanted to deal with switches, tracks, guides channels, and relays, before closing up. thanks for any help!
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2009
- Messages
- 369
The wires coming from the alarm/keyless entry will go to either 85/86 on the relays. Depending on how you wire them up. You will also need 2 diodes inline so you do not burn the alarm/keyless entry up from when you pulse the locks from the switch. You do not want power feeding back to the module from the factory wiring. It will burn your alarm/keyless out.
- Thread starter
- #88
ad20k did a write up on how he installed a keyless entry in conjunction with my power door locks mod. Check out his thread here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/268704-how-keyless-entry-62-a.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/268704-how-keyless-entry-62-a.html
WOW, slcfj62, this was an amazing read! I can't wait to get my relays and try this out! How long did the whole process take you?
black contacts from arcing
i did my power locks, and the results were incredible. i had to show the image of the contacts, they were in rough condition, switching so much power. the relays helped a lot. my rear passenger door still would not unlock. so i took the panel off, and found a few bellcrank linkages that were dry and a bellcrank with a spring that all need a shot of lithium grease. cycled it a few times and tried the lock, and worked great.
i then did my rear window while i was in this door, and wired the relays as described. was pretty straightforward, i soldered all wires that were a switch signal, or power, and spliced the grounds. ran a ground wire through the grommet. not that this window still has stock rubbers. i tried it, and the window would go up and down but a lot of squeaking, and groaning!
so again, i got in there, and shot lithium grease on the fulcrum point on the actuator, the window slides, and used a boeshield wax based lube on the rubber channels. this helped a lot!
i did my power locks, and the results were incredible. i had to show the image of the contacts, they were in rough condition, switching so much power. the relays helped a lot. my rear passenger door still would not unlock. so i took the panel off, and found a few bellcrank linkages that were dry and a bellcrank with a spring that all need a shot of lithium grease. cycled it a few times and tried the lock, and worked great.
i then did my rear window while i was in this door, and wired the relays as described. was pretty straightforward, i soldered all wires that were a switch signal, or power, and spliced the grounds. ran a ground wire through the grommet. not that this window still has stock rubbers. i tried it, and the window would go up and down but a lot of squeaking, and groaning!
so again, i got in there, and shot lithium grease on the fulcrum point on the actuator, the window slides, and used a boeshield wax based lube on the rubber channels. this helped a lot!
- Thread starter
- #91
Yep, those contacts get pretty bad. In my experience, even though I cleaned all the black junk off and polished up the contacts, they began pitting again immediately. That was when I figured out the relay mod, and why I called it a permanent fix. I also lubed everything before I installed the sound dampener. I don't ever want to have to get inside the doors again. One more thing that I did, was to pull all the connectors inside the doors apart and shoot some electrical contact cleaner into the connections before I plugged them back together and buttoned it all up.
Tonight, something wierd happened...
On my Front Passenger window, I can roll it down with the switch in the driver's door, but it decided to stop rolling UP with the switch in the driver's door. It's always been really slow, but always worked until tonight.
But if I use the switch on the passenger door, it works fine.
Do you think the relay mod would fix this problem? In your write-up for the windows - it looked like you only did the individual switches in the other doors, not the master switch panel.
On my Front Passenger window, I can roll it down with the switch in the driver's door, but it decided to stop rolling UP with the switch in the driver's door. It's always been really slow, but always worked until tonight.
But if I use the switch on the passenger door, it works fine.
Do you think the relay mod would fix this problem? In your write-up for the windows - it looked like you only did the individual switches in the other doors, not the master switch panel.
- Thread starter
- #94
This is a long strung out thread. Back in posting #61
IH8MUD.com - View Single Post - Power Windows and Door Locks--Permanent Fix!
I tried to explain how Toyota designed the power windows. When you operate the windows from the drivers master switch, the +12 Volts comes from the drivers door, through all the switches, to the passenger door, and then the ground goes all the way back through the switches including the power window lock switch and then finally to ground. If you operate the switch at the passenger door, then the +12 Volts comes from the passenger door, but the ground still goes all the way back through the drivers power window lock switch.
When you do the relay mod, the power for each window comes from the passenger door, regardless of which switch you actuate, and the ground is at the door itself. So I would say that doing the mod would fix your problem as long as the switch in the drivers door is OK. I recommend that you take the switch array apart and polish up the contacts anyway, so you will most likely fix it.
Soooo . . . do I need to wire the relay into the master panel, or the passenger door? Or both?
- Thread starter
- #96
You wire relays into the master panel for the power door locks, and each passenger door for the power window mod. The drivers door already has relays for the window--they are in the green plastic box in the lower front corner of the door.
Last edited:
it took me over a year to get this done, but I am VERY happy with it but, and there always is a but, huh?
the way you wrote one part of it, I cut the wires on the harness side of the white
it goes something like you are going to cut 2 wires, (then you describe the 2 wires on the loom side of the white connector) not a biggie but I thought it might be more clear if you deleted that line,, but I understand you are trying to make sure everyone is clear about what wires you are really trying to locate coming from the switch, anyway I fixed my FU and I appreciate your write up and your time.
I had to take the panels off the back doors to lube the mechanisms with some spray lithium and while I was there I noticed the lock actuators mounting bolts were loose.. so I tightened them.. I also disconnected and reconnected the connector on each back door (I figured 5 wires was way to many to work the windows and thought the door lock must some how go thru that,, I think that helped too)
I took my master window switch apart and cleaned all the contacts, and now the only window that goes up and down is the drivers window..(from the master switch or from the individual doors...) I think I have the window lock back in correctly,,, the nipple goes to the nipple...
when I was taking the main assembly apart the V shaped pieces fell out and on my hood, I figured how to put them back together OK, (I am pretty sure) the switches move like they should but I get no reaction at the doors... any idea what I did? or how to fix it?, the breaker in the fuse panel seems to be OK, and like I said the drivers window works fine...other than cleaning and reassembling the switch I did not do anything else to the window circuit.
is there a special way the V shaped pieces go in?
I do not see anything in the wiring diagram that indicates another individual relay, and if the drivers door window did not work I could see that being a problem,,
help is appreciated.
the way you wrote one part of it, I cut the wires on the harness side of the white
it goes something like you are going to cut 2 wires, (then you describe the 2 wires on the loom side of the white connector) not a biggie but I thought it might be more clear if you deleted that line,, but I understand you are trying to make sure everyone is clear about what wires you are really trying to locate coming from the switch, anyway I fixed my FU and I appreciate your write up and your time.
I had to take the panels off the back doors to lube the mechanisms with some spray lithium and while I was there I noticed the lock actuators mounting bolts were loose.. so I tightened them.. I also disconnected and reconnected the connector on each back door (I figured 5 wires was way to many to work the windows and thought the door lock must some how go thru that,, I think that helped too)
I took my master window switch apart and cleaned all the contacts, and now the only window that goes up and down is the drivers window..(from the master switch or from the individual doors...) I think I have the window lock back in correctly,,, the nipple goes to the nipple...
when I was taking the main assembly apart the V shaped pieces fell out and on my hood, I figured how to put them back together OK, (I am pretty sure) the switches move like they should but I get no reaction at the doors... any idea what I did? or how to fix it?, the breaker in the fuse panel seems to be OK, and like I said the drivers window works fine...other than cleaning and reassembling the switch I did not do anything else to the window circuit.
is there a special way the V shaped pieces go in?
I do not see anything in the wiring diagram that indicates another individual relay, and if the drivers door window did not work I could see that being a problem,,
help is appreciated.
- Thread starter
- #98
3pits, sorry about steering you wrong on which wires to cut. I went back and re-read that part, and you are right, it was worded poorly. I word-smithed it some and hopefully it's a little more clear now.
As to your windows not working after you overhauled the master panel, did you just install the power door lock mod and not the power window mod? The power window mod changes the design so that the ground is at each door--either to the door itself, or to a vehicle ground point, so your window lock switch no longer is in the circuit. The door switches are independent of the master panel once you have installed the relays. So you must not have installed the power window mod yet. If that is the case, (power window mod not installed), then your problem is either the window lock switch, or one of the wires associated with it. That window lock switch is famous for breaking and falling out.
As to your windows not working after you overhauled the master panel, did you just install the power door lock mod and not the power window mod? The power window mod changes the design so that the ground is at each door--either to the door itself, or to a vehicle ground point, so your window lock switch no longer is in the circuit. The door switches are independent of the master panel once you have installed the relays. So you must not have installed the power window mod yet. If that is the case, (power window mod not installed), then your problem is either the window lock switch, or one of the wires associated with it. That window lock switch is famous for breaking and falling out.
I greatly appreciate your time on this to help us electro-lame-os...
I have not done the power window mod, though I will once I get more relays
about the window lock switch, is there only 1 tab piece of metal? maybe I have that installed backwards or upside down,,, so it is making contact when it is not supposed to...grounding out.. or not,,
so if I read this right, the window lock switch is grounding the system to allow the master and door switches to work, when the window lock switch is "activated" it actually breaks the ground thus de activating all the other switches. is this right?
thanks again!
I have not done the power window mod, though I will once I get more relays
about the window lock switch, is there only 1 tab piece of metal? maybe I have that installed backwards or upside down,,, so it is making contact when it is not supposed to...grounding out.. or not,,
so if I read this right, the window lock switch is grounding the system to allow the master and door switches to work, when the window lock switch is "activated" it actually breaks the ground thus de activating all the other switches. is this right?
thanks again!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #100
Yep, that's right. The ground path for all the windows except the drivers window goes through that lock switch. So if something goes wrong with the lock switch, only the drivers window will work, whether you are using the door switches or the master panel switches. This is kind of brain damaged in my opinion. Once you do the power window mod, the lock switch will no longer have any effect.
