Power Windows and Door Locks--Permanent Fix! (10 Viewers)

[slcfj62]

Apparently my understanding of the cruiser wiring is either a bit off or I am just missing something.

How does the driver panel connect in to the window motor of the passenger's window? Is it through the passenger's switch or not?

If it doesn't connect through the passenger's switch then interrupting the brown grounding wire from the control circuit would only stop the passenger's side switch from working.

The drivers switch connects 12V to the passenger window motor through the passenger switch. They are in series. When you push the switch on the drivers door, the +12V to operate the window motor comes from the drivers door, through the drivers door master switch, through the wiring loom, through the passenger door switch and to the motor. The return ground from the window motor goes back through the passenger switch, through the wiring loom, through the drivers switch, then through the window lock switch and finally to the A-pillar ground on the drivers side. When you push the switch on the passenger door, the +12V for the motor comes from the passenger door through the passenger door switch to the motor, and then the ground goes back through the passenger door switch, through the wiring loom to the drivers door switch, through the window lock switch, and then to the A-pillar ground. This is just short of brain damage, and is one of the reasons why we are having so many problems with the windows.

With the relay mod, pushing the switch on the drivers door sends +12V through the drivers door switch, through the wiring loom, through the passenger door switch and to the relay coil (either up or down depending on what you pushed.) The relay activates and connects the window motor to the +12V in the passenger door. The motor is now grounded through the other relay in the passenger door and to a ground point of your choosing at the passenger door. Pushing the passenger door switch puts +12V from the passenger door to the relay coil, and the relay activates, putting +12V to the window motor from the +12V supply in the passenger door. The ground is through the other relay etc. So what the relays accomplish is avoiding all the door switch contacts for +12V power to the motors as well as all the switch contacts for the return ground--not to mention about 20 or so feet of wire. The only voltage and current going through the window switches after the mod is the relay coil current which is very small compared to the window motor draw, and hence the switches should last forever, and not get pitted, etc.

Does this help?

 

[Mikesta]

Very cool thread... thanks for the time and effort on this!!!

STICKY!!

 

[MILLHOUSE]

Nice bit-o-info, my windows are a little slow, and lock button only unlocks. However as a electrician I have one big problem with those P.O.S. SIDE CRIMP !!!!!!!!!! I would get out the sadering gun and rosen core and shrink toob. Eney time one would go to this mutch work I would think should do it right the first and hopfuly onley time. Other than that thanks for your time.

 

[slcfj62]

Nice bit-o-info, my windows are a little slow, and lock button only unlocks. However as a electrician I have one big problem with those P.O.S. SIDE CRIMP !!!!!!!!!! I would get out the sadering gun and rosen core and shrink toob. Eney time one would go to this mutch work I would think should do it right the first and hopfuly onley time. Other than that thanks for your time.

Yes, the crimp on connectors are not perfect, but most people don't know how to solder (hint: you don't use a torch). So this will help a lot more people do the mod. Since the connectors will be inside the vehicle, they shouldn't corrode too fast.

 

[ad20k]

Excellent post. I have been puzzling about how to wire a keyless entry module I bought a while back while retaining the function of the door lock switch. After reading your post, adding the relays would make it so I can put either the door switch or the keyless entry power the relay coils. Easy!

 

[slcfj62]

Excellent post. I have been puzzling about how to wire a keyless entry module I bought a while back while retaining the function of the door lock switch. After reading your post, adding the relays would make it so I can put either the door switch or the keyless entry power the relay coils. Easy!

That's a good idea. I hadn't even thought about that. But before you hook the remote up, double check how it is supposed to play with the existing locks. The power door lock ground goes back through the other switch. At rest, both switches are grounded (Toyotas idea, not mine). When you push the switch (UP or DOWN), it breaks the ground contact before it makes the 12V contact. This is called a "break before make" switch. So if you connect the output of your remote lock unit to the relay coil, bad things will happen when your remote unit tries to energize the relay, because you won't be pushing the switch and interrupting the ground. You might be able to use a different relay with your remote that could integrate the remote with the switches, something like a double pole double throw relay instead of the double pole single throw, but I'd have to see what the schematic looks like for how your remote is supposed to hook into the vehicle wiring before I could tell.

 

[Spook50]

Quick question concerning the door lock relays: Was it really necessary to use SPDT relays?

Since there's only power needed when the switch is hit, I would think SPST NO relays would work as well. But I also noticed you connected terminal 87a to your factory wiring (the NC terminal) along with the ground for the relay's coil, so I'm curious if this is to avoid an issue that would otherwise occur?

 

[slcfj62]

The relays take the place of the switch in the power lock circuit. The switches are now used only to activate the relays. The NC contact of the relay that is not being activated provides the return ground for the door locks circuit, so it is necessary. I don't think there is any price difference between SPDT and SPST anyway. And welcome home.

 

[Spook50]

The relays take the place of the switch in the power lock circuit. The switches are now used only to activate the relays. The NC contact of the relay that is not being activated provides the return ground for the door locks circuit, so it is necessary. I don't think there is any price difference between SPDT and SPST anyway. And welcome home.

Hehe, thanks. Gonna have to be more careful on the budget now that I won't get those extra three months of hazardous duty pay

Your point is exactly what I was wondering concerning the switches and grounding. I don't have enough of a mind for electronics to figure it out myself though. Thanks for the clarification. I assume it's the same thing for the windows as well?

 

[slcfj62]

Hehe, thanks. Gonna have to be more careful on the budget now that I won't get those extra three months of hazardous duty pay

Your point is exactly what I was wondering concerning the switches and grounding. I don't have enough of a mind for electronics to figure it out myself though. Thanks for the clarification. I assume it's the same thing for the windows as well?

Yep. Same for the windows.

 

[Spook50]

The relays are on the way. Can't wait to give this a shot. Friggen expensive for 30A Tyco relays too. Nine of these (one spare) and two SPST relays for a project on my Duster ran me $140.

 

[slcfj62]

The relays are on the way. Can't wait to give this a shot. Friggen expensive for 30A Tyco relays too. Nine of these (one spare) and two SPST relays for a project on my Duster ran me $140.

Ouch! The eight I got from here

**RELAY 30 /50 AMP SPDT RELAY - WITH HARNESS :: RELAYS AND HARNESSES :: Car Alarm & Remote Start :: AUTOTOYS

were only $4.95 each!

 

[Spook50]

Ouch! The eight I got from here

**RELAY 30 /50 AMP SPDT RELAY - WITH HARNESS*::*RELAYS AND HARNESSES*::*Car Alarm & Remote Start*::*AUTOTOYS

were only $4.95 each!

Are they Tyco/Bosch relays? Those are the only ones I trust. Never had one fail on me in the years I've used 'em. Plus I know Dan Stern (who I got my relays from) from other boards too so for relays and lighting I go to him.

 

[Creeker]

Wow. just found this thread. Looks like it will solve my broken window lock switch while also improving my snail crawling windows.

Thanks for the time and effort you took to write this up!

 

[jgroux]

This mod is the second best on the site (best mod is the $17.77 4WD solenoid replacement). Extremely clear instructions that work as advertised! Thank you slcfj62

 

[Creeker]

Label or mark the two relay harnesses you are going to be using. Label one UP and the other DOWN. Now, using the butt splice connectors and the tap splice connectors, make the following connections. Refer to the schematic for the relay in the power door lock mod earlier in the thread.

• Butt splice the UP Yellow wire to the connector Green wire with the Yellow stripe.
• Butt splice the UP Brown wire to the switch side Green wire with the Yellow stripe.
• Butt splice the DOWN Yellow wire to the connector Red wire with the Yellow stripe.
• Butt splice the DOWN Brown wire to the switch side Red wire with the Yellow stripe.
• Using the Tap Splice Connectors, connect both UP and DOWN relay harness Red wires to the Blue wire running between the switch and the connector.
• Connect both the UP and DOWN Black and Blue relay harness wires all together. This will be the wire you GROUND. The yellow tap splice connector works better for connecting the two larger black wires together.

That’s it! Go out and plug the switch back in, connect up the ground wire and test it out.

EDIT: By the way, this mod bypasses the window lock switch in the drivers door master switch, so you will no longer be able to lock passengers windows.

I'm planning on doing this mod - great write up.

Where did you hook up the ground? Did you have to go into the pillar, or just to the door metal itself?

 

[slcfj62]

I wound up running a ground wire through the same grommets out of the door that all the other wires go through, and grounding it under the dash. Same with the back doors.

 

[Creeker]

I wound up running a ground wire through the same grommets out of the door that all the other wires go through, and grounding it under the dash. Same with the back doors.

Thanks. Do you remember what ga? 14 or 16?

 

[slcfj62]

I used some 12 gauge wire I had, but 14 gauge would probably be OK.

 

[jgroux]

I did this mod with 14 gauge wire and grounded it to the door metal - I know there is a chance this ground could break down, but I was lazy (and it works)...

b2Shr