Power Windows and Door Locks--Permanent Fix! (2 Viewers)

[4Cruisers]

I bought several relay connectors/pigtails from NAPA that had the heavier gauge wire (for headlight relays). But I bought others online that had much smaller gauge wires. The smaller gauge wires are adequate for the current needed for the solenoid (Terminals 85), but not for the higher current for the power to the locks. So I removed the other three terminals and wire leads from the connector housings and inserted new wires and terminals of the proper gauge. Most of the photos online (Amazon, eBay, etc.) show what appear to be heavier gauge wires, but it turns out they just have extremely thick plastic insulation and very few wire strands. I got bit by that, so that's why I had to swap wires.

 

[NearJetties]

Hi! Can you conform if these work? I was looking at the same one on Amazon but waned to be sure before I bought! Thanks!

I was hoping someone else would confirm too lol. No one has and I haven’t purchased them yet.

The ones that were originally used were marked 30/50 amp and 14 vdc which compared to 30/40 amp and 12 vdc. I don’t think 12v vs. 14v makes a difference as that’s more or less the same for an automotive application. Go for pigtails/connectors with 14 awg wire.

In doing some more research in relay labeling conventions I switched the ’normally open’ and ‘normally closed’ ratings. 30 amp is the rating for ‘normally closed’ and 50 amp is the rating for ‘normally open’. In this application they’ll be normally open so you’ll want to find one with at least a 50amp rating so the ones I posted won’t be ideal.

Rereading thread I noticed @slcfj62 recommended part # 75716 from Waytek.com since the relays originally mentioned are no longer available.

Song Chuan 896H-1CH-C1S-R1-12VDC High Current Mini Relays

Song Chuan 896H-1CH-C1S-R1-12VDC high current mini relay, 50A, 12V, SPDT with five 1/4" terminals with resistor.

www.waytekwire.com

 

[Sarajco]

Captains Log... Day 14 of owning an FJ62

I HATE POWER WINDOWS!!!!

So... I’m troubleshooting my power window issue. My front pass & both back windows are lifeless from their switch as well as from the main driver switch. The driver side switch is iffy but works most of the time. This occurred bc I tried to roll 2 windows up at once- I don’t know what I was thinking??? I should I know better!
I wish I would have started by hooking the window motor up to a battery but while I have this out... my relay board looks good... right? I tried to find a pic of what a bad relay board looks like...but I failed. Just want to confirm this isn’t my problem (besides needing to add relays to it). I’ve never seen a power window system like this... I would say more... but I don’t want to anger the 62 series gods anymore than I already have.
Also, I already tried resetting my power circuit breaker and it didn’t make the satisfying click and it didn’t fix my window issue. but it did fix my power lock issue

Thanks in advance for any info!

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[Cbad Cruiser]

I was hoping someone else would confirm too lol. No one has and I haven’t purchased them yet.

The ones that were originally used were marked 30/50 amp and 14 vdc which compared to 30/40 amp and 12 vdc. I don’t think 12v vs. 14v makes a difference as that’s more or less the same for an automotive application. Go for pigtails/connectors with 14 awg wire.

In doing some more research in relay labeling conventions I switched the ’normally open’ and ‘normally closed’ ratings. 30 amp is the rating for ‘normally closed’ and 50 amp is the rating for ‘normally open’. In this application they’ll be normally open so you’ll want to find one with at least a 50amp rating so the ones I posted won’t be ideal.

Rereading thread I noticed @slcfj62 recommended part # 75716 from Waytek.com since the relays originally mentioned are no longer available.

Song Chuan 896H-1CH-C1S-R1-12VDC High Current Mini Relays

Song Chuan 896H-1CH-C1S-R1-12VDC high current mini relay, 50A, 12V, SPDT with five 1/4" terminals with resistor.

www.waytekwire.com

Did you end up buying these? Waytekwire has a $50 minimum and I am hoping to split the cost between some other interested individuals.

 

[grayfj62turd]

I am having electrical issues with my windows. The rear drivers side window will not operate at all. I removed the motor and tested it - the mechanism works fine.
The master switch is not functioning correctly. From left to right the first switch operates the rear passenger window. the RR window switch on the door panel operates correctly. On the master, the second switch from the left controls the drivers window. The third form the left controls the front passenger window. The switch on the FR door panel works correctly, The auto down does not operate nor does the regular up or down. This switch is dead.

Will the permanent fix bypass the green box power relay?

 

[NearJetties]

I finally got around to doing this mod to the front passenger door. Made a huge difference.

I am having one problem though and it was one of those things I didn’t think about until I had it. I followed @slcfj62 instructions which were perfect.

However, it was a real pain to get the relays in the hole where the original connector comes out while putting the door card back on. Now that everything is back together the regulator and glass are hitting the relays. I just tucked the relays in as I didn’t have much slack since the switch was in the door card and the connector plugged in.

Were the wires on the relays just too short? Am I missing a simple solution like routing it into the door wrong?

@4Cruisers did an awesome job later in the thread but I don’t have enough slack to do that. Or I might just need to fiddle with it more—it was getting dark.

I took the opportunity to put in some sound deadening too.

 

[NearJetties]

I finally got around to doing this mod to the front passenger door. Made a huge difference.

I am having one problem though and it was one of those things I didn’t think about until I had it. I followed @slcfj62 instructions which were perfect.

However, it was a real pain to get the relays in the hole where the original connector comes out while putting the door card back on. Now that everything is back together the regulator and glass are hitting the relays. I just tucked the relays in as I didn’t have much slack since the switch was in the door card and the connector plugged in.

Were the wires on the relays just too short? Am I missing a simple solution like routing it into the door wrong?

@4Cruisers did an awesome job later in the thread but I don’t have enough slack to do that. Or I might just need to fiddle with it more—it was getting dark.

I took the opportunity to put in some sound deadening too.

View attachment 2502934View attachment 2502935

amazing what daylight, a fresh eye, and some zip ties can do

I did have to extend some of the connections. Now I know I need to extend the relay pigtails before even starting on the other windows so I can get them below the lowest point of the window when it’s all the way down.

I’ll probably redo this one when I’m feeling motivated. It’s going to bother me if I don’t.

 

[Spook50]

amazing what daylight, a fresh eye, and some zip ties can do

I did have to extend some of the connections. Now I know I need to extend the relay pigtails before even starting on the other windows so I can get them below the lowest point of the window when it’s all the way down.

I’ll probably redo this one when I’m feeling motivated. It’s going to bother me if I don’t.

I have some scrap sheet I'll be cutting screw-in brackets to hang relays from for my (much more involved) relay mod. Key will be to ensure the relays are (like you said) kept below the lowest point of the window, and not upside down. Upside down could let moisture in and shorten their life drastically.

 

[StudsTerkel]

This is such a helpful post. Thanks.

If there is anyone in LA area that wants to make a few bucks on the side installing relays into my 62, PM me! I tend to trust folks around here more than your average electrical guy.

 

[NearJetties]

Did sound deadening in the passenger rear door and after buying a bunch of wire to extend the relay pigtails attacked adding the relays. It came out wayyy cleaner this time.

The relays will mount down low out of the way of the window without putting any stress on the wires. Still plan to add some split loom and a ring terminal for the ground.

 

[Richfj60]

First, I want to thank everyone for this post. Its fantastic! and while I wait for more Amazon stuff to arrive, I wanted to pass on a piece of advice.....Do not think that you are smarter than everyone else and order waterproof relays. I thought that it had to be better. The problem is, they do not fit through the switch plate hole in the door panel. Oh well, its been a learning experience. I'll be doing what NearJetties has done and extending the wires a bit, and instead of doing all of them at once and soldering the connections, I will be using the crimp and shrink fittings and extending the wires- one door panel at a time.

 

[NearJetties]

Good time to redo the weather barrier if it’s seen better days too.

I used the waterproof relays and had to squeeze the switches through the hole instead. It was tight but worked.

 

[Richfj60]

Good time to redo the weather barrier if it’s seen better days too.

I used the waterproof relays and had to squeeze the switches through the hole instead. It was tight but worked.

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I can see that you used the waterproof ones now. I missed that. I can open up the holes for my switches as I had new door paneI and don't have holes for them. I was planning on moving the switches to the center console, but abandoned that for sanity reasons (not that I am sane, mind you).
I am going to try to use Cascade Audio Engineering VB-2 as a weather barrier. Supposedly gives additional noise and vapor protection. We'll see. I have to get the switch to fitted first.

 

[Richfj60]

After a day of frustration, I figured out I had it the relay wired wrong and had to move the wires. Easier than starting over. So, I should have my wiring done tomorrow and I can start figuring out what to do with the lock actuators. Anyone found a suitable new replacement? I saw an old thread about Torfab having something, but nothing on their website. Any suggestions?

 

[Richfj60]

Ok, a day of success. Unfortunately, I used the diagram on post #191 to understand the set up, but the pin #'s were wrong. For instance ce 30 is Yellow to the connector, etc. You have to decipher the colors and pin #'s from SLC's original post. It works great! Happy happy. Now, those power locks...the to back door locks are not activating. Any way to test? Maybe its in here and I missed it.

 

[buffydores]

So, I'm sure it's mentioned somewhere else, but for the driver's side door, adding the relay downstream of the factory green relay disables the auto window function. If your green relay is no longer working, you're not gonna like the used price of $300 for one of those green window relays. If it's not working, before doing this mod, you might pop open the green relay to see if one of the thin copper circuit board lines burned up. That's what mine did. Ten minutes carefully soldering over the gap addressed it. That way you can keep the auto function. All the other doors don't have an auto function, so the relay installation described above makes sense. Now if the green relay is just FUBARed, and you don't want to burn $300, then yes, go ahead and do the double relay mod.

 

[Spook50]

So, I'm sure it's mentioned somewhere else, but for the driver's side door, adding the relay downstream of the factory green relay disables the auto window function. If your green relay is no longer working, you're not gonna like the used price of $300 for one of those green window relays. If it's not working, before doing this mod, you might pop open the green relay to see if one of the thin copper circuit board lines burned up. That's what mine did. Ten minutes carefully soldering over the gap addressed it. That way you can keep the auto function. All the other doors don't have an auto function, so the relay installation described above makes sense. Now if the green relay is just FUBARed, and you don't want to burn $300, then yes, go ahead and do the double relay mod.

A burned trace could be a sign of another issue causing it. Now as old as these boxes are, the relays inside CAN go bad, but luckily if you can solder you can replace them. That's detailed in another thread, along with the part numbers that you can order from DigiKey (I think Mouser has them too). I'm hoping with my version of this mod that I can get full power going to the relay box so the auto down function still works.

 

[avantcruise]

After an agonizing hour of reading this thread and trying to source the proper materials I’d like to double-check with the community before purchasing. Are these the materials needed for this mod? I’ve got the 30/50 amp mini relay spdt and then a mini relay harness with what appears to be the pigtail. The only thing I’m not sure about is if the wire gauges are correct for the pigtail - this is the description:

• Mini Relay Connector 75610
• Category: Mechanical Relays & Connectors
• Connects to 5 pin, weatherproof 3-12 ga and 2-18 ga, GXL 12" leads
• Terminals included
• 185°F (85°C) - 40°F (-40°C)
• Use crimp tool stock no. 419
• Heat Stabilized thermoplastic connectors for relays
• Terminals (when supplied with connector) are brass, bright tin plated
• Connectors for panel mounting can be stacked together

 

[FishNinJay]

After an agonizing hour of reading this thread and trying to source the proper materials I’d like to double-check with the community before purchasing. Are these the materials needed for this mod? I’ve got the 30/50 amp mini relay spdt and then a mini relay harness with what appears to be the pigtail. The only thing I’m not sure about is if the wire gauges are correct for the pigtail - this is the description:

• Mini Relay Connector 75610
• Category: Mechanical Relays & Connectors
• Connects to 5 pin, weatherproof 3-12 ga and 2-18 ga, GXL 12" leads
• Terminals included
• 185°F (85°C) - 40°F (-40°C)
• Use crimp tool stock no. 419
• Heat Stabilized thermoplastic connectors for relays
• Terminals (when supplied with connector) are brass, bright tin plated
• Connectors for panel mounting can be stacked together

How'd it go tackling this project? It's on my TO-DO list.. my long to-do list.

 

[NavyCruiser89]

Just did this mod finally. Even after completing just one window, the power increase is notable even on the stock windows. While I had the switch out I noticed my fan for heat/ac stopped working. I guess this entire car is wired as one system??

Mapping the wires threw me off at first so thought I would put on a crib sheet for those with a similar relay setup. 14 gauge ground wire worked for me with a self tapping metal screw in the door itself. Now just need to find the right place to permanently secure the relays.