4Cruisers
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Thanks, will give them a call.
Power Windows and Door Locks--Permanent Fix!
- Thread starter slcfj62
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OK thanks
4Cruisers
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I haven't been able to checkout my shopping cart at autotoys.com for several days. Not sure if they're still in business. I went to my local NAPA store this afternoon to see what they had in the way of relays. They had light relays in stock, but they're SPST so won't work for this application. I ordered two SPDT power window relays (Hella 4RD 931 680-04) for store pick-up, but don't know how many days it will take to get here. They did have one compatible harness with 14 gauge wire in stock, the other will be in at 8:00 a.m. tomorrow. The price for one harness was $14.69, so $$$, but I'll have both in hand when needed. These first parts are for my power door lock circuit in the DS front door, which is now devoid of internals. Hopefully I'll be able to find a less expensive source for the power window circuits in the other three doors. Waytek is the first place I'll check.
4Cruisers
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Per the BBB, autotoys.com is no longer in business, so that source dried up. The Hella power window relays available from NAPA are 40A relays and are made in China, so I cancelled that order this morning. I searched some more and was able to order a package of ten 50A relays through Amazon (sold and shipped by Materro LLC) for $45.22:
Manufacturer: Song Chuan Product Category: Automotive Relays RoHS: Contact Form: 1 Form C (SPDT-BM) Contact Current Rating: 50 A Coil Voltage: 12 V Coil Resistance: 90 Ohms Coil Current: 133 mA Switching Voltage: 14 VDC, 28 VDC Mounting Style: Socket Contact Material: Silver Tin Oxide Brand: Song Chuan Coil Type: High Power Contact Termination: Quick Connect Power Consumption: 1.6 W
Manufacturer Part Number: 896H-1CH-S1-R1-T-12VDC.
Per the Song Chuan catalog, these relays are "Flanged cover (sealed type washable)" (that's what the "S1" stands for), so I went with these, even though they're a little more expensive than the types available through Waytek.
I also found (what I hope to be) good quality 5-pin relay harnesses (sold and shipped by Amazon), Metra ERS-123, for $4.48 each, with free shipping. These harnesses are advertised to have three 14 AWG leads (power wires) and two 18 AWG leads (coil control wires). I'll post what I find when they arrive. After reading multiple reviews, similar, or maybe the same (?), harnesses advertised on Amazon (Parts Express, sold by A&A Online) are not as advertised - all wires appear to be 18 AWG, but with thicker plastic insulation so they appear to be a heavier gauge. If nothing else, I'll buy more harnesses from NAPA, Part Number EC23, I know they're all 14 AWG leads because I have one in hand
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My power windows quit a couple months ago (locks still work). I initially replaced the switch, as the PO had done some questionable fix-it work. Unfortunately, no fix. After going around in circles a few times and having close to zero electrical knowhow to fall back on, I am giving up. However my windows still don't work.
Does anyone know anyone / LC shops in the San Jose, CA area who can be trusted to do this electrical diagnosis / fix? Better yet, someone who is capable of wiring up @slcfj62 's awesome mod?
As a last resort, I could drive it out to Georg / Valley Hybrids (@orangefj45) but I'd like to avoid the trip & I think he's sick of dealing with my 62
Does anyone know anyone / LC shops in the San Jose, CA area who can be trusted to do this electrical diagnosis / fix? Better yet, someone who is capable of wiring up @slcfj62 's awesome mod?
As a last resort, I could drive it out to Georg / Valley Hybrids (@orangefj45) but I'd like to avoid the trip & I think he's sick of dealing with my 62
Back to basics.My power windows quit a couple months ago (locks still work). I initially replaced the switch, as the PO had done some questionable fix-it work. Unfortunately, no fix. After going around in circles a few times and having close to zero electrical knowhow to fall back on, I am giving up. However my windows still don't work.
Does anyone know anyone / LC shops in the San Jose, CA area who can be trusted to do this electrical diagnosis / fix? Better yet, someone who is capable of wiring up @slcfj62 's awesome mod?
As a last resort, I could drive it out to Georg / Valley Hybrids (@orangefj45) but I'd like to avoid the trip & I think he's sick of dealing with my 62
Did you find the circuit breaker near the fuse box and stick a toothpick in it to reset?
Have you read the FAQ at the top of the 60 section?
Pacer - If you're referring to the circuit breaker with the blue cap near the hood pull, then yes. That got my door locks working again, but didn't help the windows. I have read thru this entire thread, but will go back and check the general FAQs for a nugget of hope!
@4Cruisers - how did the relays and harnesses work out?
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
So far I've done the power door locks and the power windows on the two front doors of my '86 FJ60 project vehicle (moving most everything over from my '89 FJ62). Works great! Haven't done the two rear door power windows. The rear lift gate power door lock already has its own set of relays, I'll be checking those out after I finish moving the rear lift gate and wiring over to the '86.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
OK, I'm getting ready to reinstall the front drivers side inner door panel and switch assembly, but could use some help. Where do I stuff the two relays and all the extra wiring? Here's a photo of what I'm faced with (not mine, but similar):
What have others done? Any photos?
What have others done? Any photos?
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
I think I figured out a solution, it involves re-doing my splicing to add the relays into the harness side instead of the switch side. The relays themselves have been installed inside the door cavity down low, out of the way of all the door internals. Here are some progress photos:
The wiring as it is now:
The wire harness side:
The recessed area with original unused hole:
New hole drilled and bolts installed:
The two relays mounted:
The relay sockets and wire will be spliced into the wiring shown in the second photo (the wiring bundle with the white connector). The relay sockets will be plugged into the relays shown in the fifth photo (relays are weatherproof) and the wiring will be bundled and secured inside the cavity similar to, and in the same area, as the wiring running back to the power door lock (the wiring that disappears out of the bottom of the last photo). The white connector will extend out from the door cavity adjacent to the blue connector just as in the original configuration. Both connectors will be on the outside of the 6 mil polyethylene sheet that replaces the original blue mylar, and will run up the depressed area to the main switch assembly that attaches to the door panel. I may have to extend the wiring from the switch assembly to reach the white connector, depending on how the relay wire splicing turns out.
More photos tomorrow as I get farther along.
The wiring as it is now:
The wire harness side:
The recessed area with original unused hole:
New hole drilled and bolts installed:
The two relays mounted:
The relay sockets and wire will be spliced into the wiring shown in the second photo (the wiring bundle with the white connector). The relay sockets will be plugged into the relays shown in the fifth photo (relays are weatherproof) and the wiring will be bundled and secured inside the cavity similar to, and in the same area, as the wiring running back to the power door lock (the wiring that disappears out of the bottom of the last photo). The white connector will extend out from the door cavity adjacent to the blue connector just as in the original configuration. Both connectors will be on the outside of the 6 mil polyethylene sheet that replaces the original blue mylar, and will run up the depressed area to the main switch assembly that attaches to the door panel. I may have to extend the wiring from the switch assembly to reach the white connector, depending on how the relay wire splicing turns out.
More photos tomorrow as I get farther along.
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Nice and clean! So how did the fix work for you? I tried this a couple of weeks ago and it did not work for me...
Possible that I made a mistake in the splicing; my brother thinks the grounds on the doors are bad. You can hear each actuator clicking, but none except the driver's door have enough juice to actually move the locks.
4Cruisers
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See my Post #169 above. I'll have to see if things still work after I finish all of the re-splicingNice and clean! So how did the fix work for you? I tried this a couple of weeks ago and it did not work for me...
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tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Nice work @4Cruisers I will make a suggestion don't mount the relays with the terminals facing up water will get into the relays and make them fail prematurely you could lengthen the wires and put the relays in the truck.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
I was thinking that. The way they're installed it would take about two or three minutes to turn them so the terminals face down. Thanks for the suggestion.
See my Post #169 above. I'll have to see if things still work after I finish all of the re-splicing
My bad! I got ahead of myself. I need to go back and redo this because it seems to work for everyone else. I used different relays since that website was shut down, but maybe I chose the wrong ones. I saw the tweak to change the wires so the colors match the original instructions, and even though I carefully "translated" colors maybe I screwed that part up. If you fail, try, try again!
Yes, double check the color coordination but the grounds are just as important. The same thing happened to me...wired up everything and then no dice. After finding a better grounding point, all windows worked like a charm. I would also suggest removing the rubber and washing with dawn dish detergent. Couldn't believe how much crap came off the rubber. It significantly helped the speed of the up/down.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
Everything's back together - tested out the locks and they snap up and down with authority - and ready to vacuum the interior of the door, clean the lower portion of the window glass, and install the service hole cover (6 mil pastic sheet) using 3M Window-Weld Ribbon Sealer as the adhesive/sealer. The 3M product is a 5/16" round bead, so I'll have to roll it out in my hands to a smaller diameter before I stick it to the inner door.
I was able to tuck the wiring into the inner door cavity and secure it in place using a Toyota wire clamp, 90463-10010, force fit into a new 17/64" hole in the sheet metal. Same way the wire clamps under the hood secure to the inner wheel wells.
I discovered I couldn't turn the relays over inside the door to face the terminals down, so I sealed the wire openings in the relay sockets with Permatex Blue RTV Silicone gasket maker and applied some CRC Di-Electric Grease to the connector terminals to prevent future corrosion. Here are some more photos:
I was able to tuck the wiring into the inner door cavity and secure it in place using a Toyota wire clamp, 90463-10010, force fit into a new 17/64" hole in the sheet metal. Same way the wire clamps under the hood secure to the inner wheel wells.
I discovered I couldn't turn the relays over inside the door to face the terminals down, so I sealed the wire openings in the relay sockets with Permatex Blue RTV Silicone gasket maker and applied some CRC Di-Electric Grease to the connector terminals to prevent future corrosion. Here are some more photos:
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
After my success with the power door lock upgrade I decided to tackle the front passenger door power window. I had previously wired in the relays on the switch side, so I had to undo the splicing first. It was easier to wire the relays into the harness side than for the power door lock relays on the drivers door because there are fewer (and smaller) wires to deal with. For the ground I found out I could attach the ring terminal under the nut on the bolt that secures one of the relays to the door sheet metal, so I made sure to sand the paint off down to bare metal at the new hole I drilled. I used a different, shorter Toyota wire clamp on this door, 90463-10338. Everything's installed and checked out. Tomorrow I'll clean the door cavity and cut out the 6 mil service hole cover using the template I made. If the weather cooperates I should be able to install the door panels and call it good.
Guys, I've read through this multiple times and what I think I'm missing - specifically regarding the door locks for now - is how you re-do the ground. Where is the existing ground wire, and how can I make it better? I saw the part about pulling it through to the cabin and grounding it inside, but not sure how to do that. Amateur hour, I know, but my electrical skills are non-existent.
