Power Windows and Door Locks--Permanent Fix! (1 Viewer)

[Dozer18]

Oh, and I, too, have Viper alarm/keyless entry installed. It was installed 11 years ago right after I bought it. Locks worked fine for the longest time, then started going one by one...

I have no idea where it is spliced into or even how to look.

 

[4Cruisers]

Guys, I've read through this multiple times and what I think I'm missing - specifically regarding the door locks for now - is how you re-do the ground. Where is the existing ground wire, and how can I make it better? I saw the part about pulling it through to the cabin and grounding it inside, but not sure how to do that. Amateur hour, I know, but my electrical skills are non-existent.

I didn't need to do anything with the ground for my power door locks. But one thing that's different in my case is that the entire wiring harness in my '86 FJ60 project vehicle was swapped over from my running '89 FJ62. I inspected and cleaned every section of harness before reinstalling it in the FJ60, and made sure all of the grounding locations were clean. So it's almost like the vehicle has a new harness.

 

[4Cruisers]

Oh, and I, too, have Viper alarm/keyless entry installed. It was installed 11 years ago right after I bought it. Locks worked fine for the longest time, then started going one by one...

I have no idea where it is spliced into or even how to look.

My '89 FJ62 had a keyless entry system installed by the previous owner. The wiring was spliced into the wiring sub-harness just below the master control switch in the drivers door panel. I cut all of the keyless entry wiring out and spliced the wires back together, followed by shrink tubing.

 

[4Cruisers]

This afternoon, between snow storms (>4 inches today with up to another 1 foot tonight/tomorrow) I installed the final upgraded door wiring with relays (on the rear passenger door). The rear doors were a little easier than the front passenger side door, although I had to fabricate a bracket for each door to hold the relays. A much cleaner installation. Here are some photos of the rear drivers side door wiring/bracket:

I had to drill new access holes in the rear doors for the wiring sub harnesses. The B pillars already had unused holes covered with OEM hole plugs. I bought a really nice Starrett 1-3/16" tungsten carbide hole saw to cut the holes from the inside of the doors. Here's a photo of the new hole in the passenger side door:

Now that I'm done with the upgrades I'm glad I decided to tackle this job as long as I was swapping over the power windows and door locks from my '89 FJ62 donor vehicle to my '86 FJ60 project vehicle. I believe it'll be a huge improvement in functionality and reliability.

Another big thanks to @slcfj62!

 

[joshharris]

This might be a stupid question, but would just getting new window switches work instead of having to install the relay? I’ve found a source for new ones.

 

[4Cruisers]

This might be a stupid question, but would just getting new window switches work instead of having to install the relay? I’ve found a source for new ones.

The contacts will just continue to get carbon-ed up due to the full current going through the switch. With the relays only a tiny amount of current goes through the switch, will probably never have to look at the switches again.

 

[TJSAV]

Hi SLC,

My passenger window will roll down but not up. I just replaced the relays in the Power Window circuit box but I'm still having the same issue. I also tried a new power window switch but that didn't work either. I followed the link for the SPDT relay but they are no longer available.

I'm going to replace the passenger side switch but no sure if that will work either. Any other suggestions?

I appreciate your help.

Thanks

Power Door Locks Permanent Fix

To begin with, if you do this modification, you are responsible for the outcome. What I did worked for me. It should work for you. But if not, by attempting this mod, you are responsible for the outcome, and you agree to hold me not guilty of any wrong doing. If you have zero automotive electrical skills, I recommend you get with a buddy that does have some skills and can help, or take this to a shop you trust to make the mod.

NOTE: You should check the condition of your switches while you have the drivers door master panel out. Polish them up one last time. Once you complete the mods for the power locks and the windows, the switches should stay nice and clean without any pitting or corrosion.

That said, here are some important relay terms, and the interpretation of the Toyota wiring color code.

Single pole double throw (SPDT) relay: This is the type of relay we are using for this mod. It has a 30 Amp rating. I purchased all my relays from here (you will need two for the door locks and six for the windows):
:

[COLOR=#green]http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=319[/COLOR]

It
It came with a socket and wiring harness and looks like this:
came with a socket and wiring harness and looks like this:
View attachment 289269View attachment 289270

SLC

 

[slcfj62]

Before you buy anymore parts, you need to disconnect the window motor and rig some connections to a battery. I use a small motorcycle battery for this kind of thing, but you need to connect the motor across a 12 volt battery, and then reverse the connections. You don't have to leave it connected very long, just long enough to see it spin both ways. If the motor checks out, then you need to start troubleshooting back towards the relays and the switches. For instance, make sure that the wires you disconnected from the motor see 12 volts on one wire when you press the up button, and then the polarity should reverse when you press the down button.

 

[TJSAV]

Before you buy anymore parts, you need to disconnect the window motor and rig some connections to a battery. I use a small motorcycle battery for this kind of thing, but you need to connect the motor across a 12 volt battery, and then reverse the connections. You don't have to leave it connected very long, just long enough to see it spin both ways. If the motor checks out, then you need to start troubleshooting back towards the relays and the switches. For instance, make sure that the wires you disconnected from the motor see 12 volts on one wire when you press the up button, and then the polarity should reverse when you press the down button.

Thank you, that is sound advice. I had to do that same process in order to get the window to roll up. The motor works fine when I reverse the polarity, which makes me think it's the switch or relays. How do I test if the relays and/or switch is good?

Thanks again!

 

[1HaytchZed]

So I tested my inoperable driver's window and there is no response from the motor when hot wired (both polarities), I just hear a click when powered. Is there a way to test (continuity test?) the NTC relays in the green relay box before I replace them while I'm in there or should I not bother replacing the NTC relays and just replace the motor?


edit: I had a bad window motor. Replaced it and it works well. I didn't replace the NTC relays though since everything works as it should.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

This write up took me for a twist as I am dyslexic when it comes to 5 pin SPDT relays. So I made a crib sheet to look at when working on my 62:

 

[mwebfj60]

This write up took me for a twist as I am dyslexic when it comes to 5 pin SPDT relays. So I made a crib sheet to look at when working on my 62:
View attachment 1820407

Randy, have you wired this up?

Something doesn’t look right, maybe I’m confused, my drawings are at home.

Looking through my thread, my relays have continuity on 87a and 30 with window switches in neutral. The blue wire from the harness should always be hot with the key on...

 

[Randy88FJ62]

I have not. It is possible that the pin out for the relay picture I snagged off the internet is incorrect.

 

[Morgan Evans]

BEST MOD EVER. Bumping this b**** because it fixed a major headache in my 62.

 

[ntsqd]

Those "Scotch-loks" will become a major headache if they weren't removed in the process. No better way to make a connection that will become intermittent at some point in the future.

 

[Morgan Evans]

Solid point with the quick connects... if it gives me a fit i'll know where to start.

 

[NomadEffect]

This post rocks!!!!! Can’t thank the OP enough!!

 

[dudenhoeffer]

Game changer... Thanks! Totally worth the time to do this.

 

[NearJetties]

This has been on my to-do list for a while and I’m finally getting serious.

I think these will work—can someone confirm? Should I spring for the waterproof 12 gauge one?

 

[Sarajco]

This has been on my to-do list for a while and I’m finally getting serious.

I think these will work—can someone confirm? Should I spring for the waterproof 12 gauge one?
View attachment 2267124View attachment 2267125

Hi! Can you conform if these work? I was looking at the same one on Amazon but waned to be sure before I bought! Thanks!