Pouring Water Down The Carb!! (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Good point. More unboltable cats with porsches. But think about it - you're taking all the carbon that used to be coating your cylinder heads and pistons, and flushing it out the engine. If your cat's on, it'll catch the brunt of all that crap coming through. If you can't remove, probably better not to do the water trick.
 
doesn't carb cleaner get into the engine, or does it evaporate fefore it gets there?
So the water really works?
 
When we did this trick we would have the motor idling, maybe a fast idle, and then just pour the tranny fluid right out of the can into the carb. You can tell when you are pouring too much because the engine starts to stall. I would expect the same to be done when using water. Start with a small stream and increase the flow until the engine starts to sputter. Let the motor recover and repeat. If I recall we use maybe a cup or more of tranny oil.

And yes, we had some mighty large clouds of smoke floating through the neigbourhood after this was done.
 
The old-school trick I heard of, and even used, is to pour one or two capfuls of brake fluid down the carb while the engine is running.

I did this on a 1954 Cadillac I had in high school (in the 80's).

It was dieseling alot, so I tried it and, by golly, chunks of carbon started flying out the tailpipes after a minute or so. Swear to God.
 
Sounds like you. If it helps, I'll bring my 60 over with some beer. By the way, is that your rig in your avatar? I think I've seen that truck around the east end - looks pretty badass.
 
I have done it on an 04 Yukon Denali with a carboned up 6.0L. In 25 minutes we took a poor running hardly ever off idle $40xxx truck and made it purr as it should with out the typical knock on start up or stumble on accell. I've also done it with a 2001 Jeep 4.0L in a TJ, same perfect results. Old age and treachery will out do youth and ambition any day. Fear not, if your cat is working properly and up to temperature the stuff that comes out will not harm it a bit.

BTW, on the Denali (all 4.8l, 5.3L and 6.0L and 8.1L) we also clean the throttle plates and air horn to perfection before any diagnostics (even charging system) they are so typically carboned up that many issues arise that can be repaired in a few minutes with a tooth brush and fuel injection cleaner.

It does work and the pro's still use it. We just don't advertise it due to the risk of joe schmoe giving it a go and forking up everything.
 
could you tell much difference in engine performance afterwards?
i can't wait to go home and pour water into my 2F.

No more then if I used Seafoam, ATF, etc. At one point I was trying everything for a carbon build-up problem. I really couldn't tell a difference between the different methods, all seem to work about the same. It could have been the combination of Seafoam, ATF, and water working together, that helped kill the carbon. Whatever I did it seemed to work... for now. I guess it is really just a personal preference.
 
Good Thread NoCal.......so I wonder if anyone will try this out....I am tempted to do it.....but I am going to wait for warmer weather....not cause I am afraid it will freeze...I just don't want to explain to my wife what the hell I am doing with a cup of water over my engine in 10 degree weather....


JGordon.....no that is not my rig...that is a 5 ton 6 wheel drive Brush Truck for brushfire fighting...the ultimate trail rig....it is truly unstopable...One of my favorite trucks in my fire company...that was taken this summer at a fire in the Hamptons.
 
don't pour, just put a little in. you don't put a whole lot in. i tried it on clampy, but even that wouldn't make it run cleaner. something to do with a bunch of spider's nests in there :D
 
i read this whole thread chuckling to myself... iono...

anyhoo, i hate to be the dumbass, but explain carbon to me, where, why it builds up, and how do i know if i need to get rid of it? if i do in fact need a lil carbon relief, this sounds like just the kinda sketchy idea i like to try...
 
yea i have used atf fluid since its kinda course that allways helped me think it would help more somehow..... ive heard the water thing but never done it before.
but i still like the atf method teh best then some berrymans (sp) chemtool B12 in the metal blue and white can after the trans fluid to kinda flush out the excess.
 
I've posted this before, but at the risk of my "reputation" :) here goes again...for the last time! Years ago my wife had a nearly new 73 Monte Carlo that was knocking for all the world like a rod was going. Mechanic took us to the very back lot of the dealership, told me to bring table rice and trans fluid. Thinking the guy was very clearly insane but having nothing to lose, I showed up with the stuff. He told me "if it's a rod, I'm going to blow the motor up, but I think it's a ball of carbon on top of the piston, and if that's what it is, this'll fix it. Rev the engine and don't let it die. As I did so, he began to pour the tranny fluid along with a small but steady stream of table rice thru the carburetor. A huge cloud of smoke, lots of revving, and a quart and a box of minute rice later, no knock and the damndest monster spot of black on the pavement behind the car about 8 feet in diameter, no more knock! It really worked. Said he learned it in the service.
 
I'm scared, Is this something I really want to try? Mmmmeeeyyyyy BAAAAAAY
 
So whaddya think the active ingredient in SeaFoam is? Water!

Gnemesis - carbon is black junk (you know it as charcoal) that builds up on the piston top & cylinder head from uncombusted fuel. It increases the compression ratio leading to pre-ignition ("knocking").

One of the problems in "cleaning up" 20+ year-old engines is that sometimes the gunk was holding it together.
 
I've used the water method for quite a while. Just did it a couple weeks ago trying to see if it was carbon that was causing my low compression numbers from clogged valves. Helped quite a bit. I use a squirt bottle (not a spray bottle your never get enough water in there with a spray bottle) At least 1000 rpms. Squirt a little. The idea is to not to put so much as you kill the engine. And don't pour it into the little tubes at the top of the carb. Also use only the side that is closest to the engine. I pour about half a quart in one cleaning.

Nevermind don't do it. If you don't know what you are doing someone somewhere will fxxx it up and blame me.
 
well, I would never pour water in my engine. Because the risk factor in putting unnecessary stress on the internal components of the engine are too great. Water does not compress.

With that said, I would rather clean my engine with nitrous oxide. I know you guys must be like LMAO! But when used properly nitrous is wonderful. Clean your engine while you have fun!

I know this because my best friend has a 92 honda civic with nitrous. When he pulled the head to do porting and polishing, he noticed that; the pistons, valves, intake, and exhaust runners had absolutely NO carbon buildup.

I know of a web site that supports my statement but the link is in my computer.
 
well, I would never pour water in my engine. Because the risk factor in putting unnecessary stress on the internal components of the engine are too great. Water does not compress.
So your saying "unnecessary stress" on an engine would NOT include running nitrous oxide thru your car? Geeze, I don't see much difference in the two as far as stress on internal engine components. Probably worse with nitrous IMO. We're not talking about ricers here, we're talking about old 2F engines with 200,000+ miles on them.

edit: or any other LC motor
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom