Water Temp - Should I be concerned (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 10, 2023
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Location
Utah
When I purchased my 60, it the temperature took a long time to get warm (as shown on the gauge), and when it did get warm it never really made it above the "low" side on the gauge.....in addition to that the heater wasn't really working.

A couple weeks ago, I decided to replace the thermostat, which turned out to be pretty nasty with lots of RTV, and no bottom gasket. Thanks for all the posts on how to get this done, was fairly simple after reading the threads.

This weekend, I flushed the coolant, and flushed out the heater core (lots of nasty brown crap in the heaters). Followed the ChrisFix videos:p. Now it gets pretty dang warm inside, so I will take that as a solid win!

My concern is the gauge still shows the exact same "low" reading that it did when I purchased it (see picture).

So my question is: Is this a problem that I should be concerned with, or is this just normal? Should I consider replacing the sensor?

(Feel free to comment on the oil pressure too :) if you feel compelled.)
PXL_20240310_233459282.jpg
 
the stock guage gives you an idea of what is going on. each rig seems to sit at a different place in the sweep.
best way to tell is to get it to temp and check engine and rad with a temp gun
 
My concern is the gauge still shows the exact same "low" reading that it did when I purchased it (see picture).

So my question is: Is this a problem that I should be concerned with, or is this just normal? Should I consider replacing the sensor?
LandCruiser gauges are notoriously inaccurate and slow to register. Little more than warning lights that move. That should concern you. I much prefer real gauges that read in numbers. I am convinced that every engine benefits from improved read-outs. A mechanical oil pressure gauge and real water temp gauges can be engine savers. Other gauges can be useful too.

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The temperature sensor is a variable resistor (thermistor). It’s resistance changes as it heats up.

The temperature gauge in the cab is a glorified ohm meter that has a needle that moves up & down based on the resistance it’s detecting.

You can check the accuracy of the temperature sensor screwed into the cylinder head with a common hand held volt/ohm meter.


Place one lead of your ohm meter on the sensor tab on the top of the sensor where the wire normally attaches and the other lead on shiny metal on the cylinder head (to ground it).


A new sensor will give these ohm readings at the following temperatures:

170° is about 88 to 90 ohms.

180° is about 73 to 75 ohms.

190° is about 62 ohms.
 
Every 60 gauge reads differently.


I would do this over with the 38mm barb fitting and put it in the upper radiator hose. I'll be doing this to my 60 soon, I put it in the rear heater line off the block and I dont like it. It can be a little delayed there.
 

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