Poll on total brake failure in 100 series (16 Viewers)

[e9999]

I think this thread is too big to put in the FAQ if the objective is to get tech info. I would suggest a new tech thread specifically on how to fix/prevent problems with x y or z would be better. Perhaps a nice how-to with photos.

 

[uHu]

I think this thread is too big to put in the FAQ if the objective is to get tech info. I would suggest a new tech thread specifically on how to fix/prevent problems with x y or z would be better. Perhaps a nice how-to with photos.

I think he means only post #792. It covers the basics - know-how to prevent a catastrophic failure.

 

[e9999]

this topic deserves more comprehensive discussions than just the one post, even if very good. Yes, it's already all buried in here but it would be good to have separate threads on issues like how to prevent, how to diagnose, how to fix etc. There are some already but if somebody wants to give a more comprehensive overview a try based on what we learned here, I suggest creating a/some threads and putting up first as many blank posts up top as you think may be needed for organization so all the info is all together up top. Then filling them in. And then we can comment on that. And the OP can subsequently fix and add more as needed. And if good we can put it in the FAQ.

 

[Warde]

mine just went

mechanic cant fix, towed to dealer, quoted 4200 to replace the abs motor RIP

 

[2001LC]

I have started a thread on brakes and will add to over time as time permits.

First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems.

Brake failure is not just a 100 series issue, not just a Toyota/Lexus issue, not just a motorized brake booster system issue. It is issue that all vehicles share. All brakes will fail sooner or later if not properly serviced.

My hope is below link will give better understanding as to what we can do to reduce brake failure and what to watch for. The info is from my experiences and my thinking as to what and why brakes fail on 100 and 200 series. As such, is subject to change, as I learn and others contribute!

Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.

First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Ager Venator]

My ABS alarm began going off, with no lights and retained brake function. Pulling codes from the ABS module shows inadequate pressure and overlong run time. Will pull motor soon and see about a rebuild.

 

[Pahizzl]

I examined my old brake master cylinder after replacing it. My failure symptoms included dragging brakes and random instances of my ABS motor NOT turning on. When it did activate, it stayed on for around 30 seconds which was within spec. Pretty sure the seals of the master cylinder are shot, but here’s what likely caused the ABS motor failure:

I applied dielectric grease to both connection points on my newly acquired master cylinder. Hopefully that reduces the likelihood of the same thing happening.

 

[flintknapper]

I examined my old brake master cylinder after replacing it. My failure symptoms included dragging brakes and random instances of my ABS motor NOT turning on. When it did activate, it stayed on for around 30 seconds which was within spec. Pretty sure the seals of the master cylinder are shot, but here’s what likely caused the ABS motor failure:
View attachment 2570433
View attachment 2570431

I applied dielectric grease to both connection points on my newly acquired master cylinder. Hopefully that reduces the likelihood of the same thing happening.

^^^^^

What I found too when I did mine.

 

[2001LC]

I examined my old brake master cylinder after replacing it. My failure symptoms included dragging brakes and random instances of my ABS motor NOT turning on. When it did activate, it stayed on for around 30 seconds which was within spec. Pretty sure the seals of the master cylinder are shot, but here’s what likely caused the ABS motor failure:
View attachment 2570433
View attachment 2570431

I applied dielectric grease to both connection points on my newly acquired master cylinder. Hopefully that reduces the likelihood of the same thing happening.

^^^^^

What found too when I did mine.

Be interesting to see pictures of inside both of your motors (commutator, brushes, armature)?
Also vent (boot) at bottom of pump?

 

[flintknapper]

Be interesting to see pictures of inside both of your motors (commutator, brushes, armature)?
Also vent (boot) at bottom of pump?

I know what mine looked like. Lots of debris from the brushes inside.

 

[2001LC]

I know what mine looked like. Lots of debris from the brushes inside.

View attachment 2570750View attachment 2570751View attachment 2570756

THX, I see what I expected to see, with brake control wire & screws corroded. That is, commutator very worn down.

 

[hoser]

After 23 years and 190k miles, I've decided to "refresh" my booster here:

Brake Booster Refresh

UPDATE: 16 months later, this pump failed on me (major fluid leak). Contacted CityRacer and they said it was an issue on early style pumps. Whether they actually fixed the issue is unknown to me. YMMV. I ended up replacing the entire booster assembly with a new OE unit. >>>>>>>>>>>>> 1998 LX...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Tres Toys]

I recently had a brake booster electric motor rebuilt by Eurton Electric in Santa Fe Springs/Whittier CA. A review of the rebuilt motor with photos of the new internal components is in the thread below.
Review of brake booster pump motor rebuilt by Eurton Electric - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/review-of-brake-booster-pump-motor-rebuilt-by-eurton-electric.1242007/
Hopefully this will help others make a decision on how they want to go about repairing their brakes if the brake booster electric motor goes out. Note that I did not install this motor yet, as I am keeping it for a spare for when the day comes that the motor goes out in one our three 200k+ mile LC/LXs.

 

[dahlmaker]

Can anyone point me to a tutorial on removing the brake assembly so I can have it rebuilt? Thank you.

 

[flintknapper]

Can anyone point me to a tutorial on removing the brake assembly so I can have it rebuilt? Thank you.

The procedure to remove the booster is pretty much covered in this thread to rebuild the Master Cylinder

Master Cylinder Rebuild - DIY

Order correct rebuild kit. Part number for 2000 US model w/ ATRAC is 04493-60330 [edit 6/2018 - this part number is correct for all US 100s. Checked with @beno and while online it will only be listed for 2003-2007, its correct for all US 100s.] Kit is around $50, so a bunch cheaper than...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[dahlmaker]

The procedure to remove the booster is pretty much covered in this thread to rebuild the Master Cylinder

Master Cylinder Rebuild - DIY

Order correct rebuild kit. Part number for 2000 US model w/ ATRAC is 04493-60330 [edit 6/2018 - this part number is correct for all US 100s. Checked with @beno and while online it will only be listed for 2003-2007, its correct for all US 100s.] Kit is around $50, so a bunch cheaper than...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thank you!

 

[flintknapper]

Thank you!

Da Nada.

Let us know if you run into any snags. It's easier for us to help you at certain 'stages' than it is to try to go through a whole tutorial.

It's all fairly intuitive with respect to what you have to remove or disconnect. Once you dive in.....you'll see. But don't hesitate to ask questions.

Quite a few of us are familiar with the job, having done it ourselves.

 

[Brentok]

Used/rebuildable master cylinder, motor module -- GONE

I replaced the whole master cylinder/motor module this weekend on my 2005 LX. I opted to do it in one painful hit to save time primarily, and also to minimize dealing with other parts of the 'module' at a less opportune time.

My symptoms over the last few weeks: The 'Brake' light would appear intermittently when it was cold outside. Then, a week or so later, Brake light would be consistently on in the cold, only going out periodically in warmer, 40+ deg temps. I never had any actual brake symptoms, but felt like it was coming. Motor run times were just out of spec, like 42 seconds I think. I didn't ever scan for codes. The terminals pictured above are corroded. The Brake light hasn't come on since replacing, so something in the old module appears to definitely be the culprit.

All of that background to ask: Does anyone need my old unit? It should NOT be installed as is, obviously. But I'd guess it would be a solid core if you wanted to go the DIY route on motor and master cylinder rebuild. If someone needs it, I'll ship it on my dime. If someone wants it, I'll ship it on yours. PM me if interested. (Edit; module is gone, thanks!)

 

[kickitrootdown]

In on page 19 of this thread working my way through. I inspected the wires going to the brake accumulator? And they look nice and clean. No brake failure, fluid at max line and was when purchased prior to my flush. I never have done the depress pedal 40 to 50 times and counted booster motor run time even when I changed brake fluid. Is this necessary or more of a diagnostic if you have or suspect an issue? View attachment 2421169

Can someone take a picture of where this picture is taken from? I see the closeup but I'm not of the setup to take a look at my terminals.

 

[silver02accord]

Can someone take a picture of where this picture is taken from? I see the closeup but I'm not of the setup to take a look at my terminals.

It's on the bottom r right corner as your facing the front of the engine bay. It's underneath the exposed assembly, I used a pocket mirror to show the picture.