Locate your brake booster, look at the electric motor and follow the wires both directions (there are two connections). One at the motor, one at the ABS unit. One is easy to see the other is NOT. .
Poll on total brake failure in 100 series (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter e9999
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Locate your brake booster, look at the electric motor and follow the wires both directions (there are two connections). One at the motor, one at the ABS unit. One is easy to see the other is NOT. .
Can you put an arrow on the angle you need? I seriously can't where the hell to stick my mirror ha!
Just to the left of your Brake Fluid Reservoir (the big white thing with the fluid in it) is your accumulator (the big gold colored thing with all the yellow stickers on it). Below that is the pump motor. You'll have to actually bend over the engine compartment and LOOK!
This is the unit removed (to give you some idea).
New one:
My curiosity took over and decided to take a look at the power supply terminal (driver side) of the abs assembly, at 253k miles, this is what mine looks like:
I carefully made sure to put back the rubber boot back again without any wrinkles on the edges so moisture won’t come it. I think this are still factory bolts, no marks to indicate the bolt was turned. Mirror is just dusty.
Just did a full brake fluid drain/exchange yesterday this with DOT4 rated fluid.
I carefully made sure to put back the rubber boot back again without any wrinkles on the edges so moisture won’t come it. I think this are still factory bolts, no marks to indicate the bolt was turned. Mirror is just dusty.
Just did a full brake fluid drain/exchange yesterday this with DOT4 rated fluid.
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You're doing it right! Good job.
IMHO: Frequent flushing and not over filling, is key to healthy brake master and caliper pistons. BTW: Out of abundance of caution, I use only Toyota brake these days.
Also be sure to keep good rubber caps on the bleeders.
Just picked up an '02 LC - it has the squealing alarm, ABS light, and no brakes (I towed it). In reading through this thread, it seems there are a number of items/ parts to address, including:
- Commutator
- Master Cylinder
- Brake booster
- Motor (which I understand at times needs to be rebuilt)
- Accumulator
I'm looking at Toyota Part number 47050-60012 which (I believe) addresses all of the above parts/ functions? But...the best price I've been able to find online is ToyotaPartsDeal at over $2200. I notice there are some used parts for the part number above on eBay for around $750 to $950 - some of which are advertised as "tested and working" and offer a warranty/ refund if the part does not work. Since on the poll here it seems only about 20% of the 100 Series suffer from this brake issue......
What are your thoughts on using a used/ refurb part? Has anyone here done it? Thx!!
- Commutator
- Master Cylinder
- Brake booster
- Motor (which I understand at times needs to be rebuilt)
- Accumulator
I'm looking at Toyota Part number 47050-60012 which (I believe) addresses all of the above parts/ functions? But...the best price I've been able to find online is ToyotaPartsDeal at over $2200. I notice there are some used parts for the part number above on eBay for around $750 to $950 - some of which are advertised as "tested and working" and offer a warranty/ refund if the part does not work. Since on the poll here it seems only about 20% of the 100 Series suffer from this brake issue......
What are your thoughts on using a used/ refurb part? Has anyone here done it? Thx!!
Brakes. I went with new and ponied up the money. The tech stream program made bleeding the system a breeze.
- Thread starter
- #829
well, it's always a matter of money isn't it?
If your children would go starving, then I'd say go for the refurbished, pay attention and advise all drivers to watch out for the telltale signs. My impression is that there is always (?) some alarms going off right before the loss of braking, so it seems that the major risks can be mitigated to a large extent.
OTOH, if you are flush with discretionary monies, then go with new so that you don't go crazy with remorse if something were to happen cuz you went with refurb -or if you want to avoid the quite possible issues with a bad refurb that you have to return and all.
In between? Well, that's above my pay grade...
If your children would go starving, then I'd say go for the refurbished, pay attention and advise all drivers to watch out for the telltale signs. My impression is that there is always (?) some alarms going off right before the loss of braking, so it seems that the major risks can be mitigated to a large extent.
OTOH, if you are flush with discretionary monies, then go with new so that you don't go crazy with remorse if something were to happen cuz you went with refurb -or if you want to avoid the quite possible issues with a bad refurb that you have to return and all.
In between? Well, that's above my pay grade...
well, it's always a matter of money isn't it?
If your children would go starving, then I'd say go for the refurbished, pay attention and advise all drivers to watch out for the telltale signs. My impression is that there is always (?) some alarms going off right before the loss of braking, so it seems that the major risks can be mitigated to a large extent.
OTOH, if you are flush with discretionary monies, then go with new so that you don't go crazy with remorse if something were to happen cuz you went with refurb -or if you want to avoid the quite possible issues with a bad refurb that you have to return and all.
In between? Well, that's above my pay grade...
Good thoughts, thanks for your input! Unfortunately, I fall in the "in between" group. Kids aren't starving, but I'm far from Bezos/ Gates style bank account. Will keep researching this week.
I did find this rebuilt option with a warranty....about a grand less than new. anyone used a rebuilt one like this? From their marketing, below. Seller is karpartzaddictionz72. I will search the forum for that name....they do have a 100% rating on eBay for what that's worth.
"For sale is a used refurbished abs brake master cylinder unit assembly.This has been thoroughly inspected and tested. All needed parts has been replaced with cups and seals! WILL COME W/ NEW GENUINE ACCUMULATOR, NEWER DESIGN PUMP AND MOTOR INSTALLED! High pressure and works excellent!Comes with a 1 year warranty replacement or send in for repair of issue arises."
2000-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser Lx470 ABS Pump Master Cylinder Assembly OEM for sale online | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 2000-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser Lx470 ABS Pump Master Cylinder Assembly OEM at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
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To all: is there a member/ shop/ rebuilder on here that will buy my old, non-working ABS / MC assembly module to rebuild / refurb it (if I don't have to send it in for a core charge)? I'm talking about part # 47050-60012 (which seems to be the same as part # 47210-60062).
Lowest price I can find new is over $2200......so I'm thinking the old part may have value to a rebuilder. Thx
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- Thread starter
- #831
Not to bias you but I'm surprised that a "rebuilder" would not have a core charge policy if they do this routinely. Is this a one-of? Also, remember that a "warranty" is only as useful as the warrantor is good for it...
Thanks for the input. I decided not to go with the rebuilt one from karpartzaddictionz72......so choice was new ($$$$) or used......
I've ordered a used part from an eBay seller in CA who seems to sell at lot of these types of parts for various vehicles and says their part is tested and working, and offers a one year warranty on the part also. 99% positive rating. They also offer a $150 credit/ core charge for sending in your old/ non working part. Unit looks in good shape cosmetically, and I'll have my local shop verify / test it and then also install it and of course check the full braking system before driving. This truck will probably mostly be driven locally around town. Fingers crossed.....
I've ordered a used part from an eBay seller in CA who seems to sell at lot of these types of parts for various vehicles and says their part is tested and working, and offers a one year warranty on the part also. 99% positive rating. They also offer a $150 credit/ core charge for sending in your old/ non working part. Unit looks in good shape cosmetically, and I'll have my local shop verify / test it and then also install it and of course check the full braking system before driving. This truck will probably mostly be driven locally around town. Fingers crossed.....
- Thread starter
- #834
Hope it works out well for you.
On a side note, I'm always wondering about sellers who claim they tested obscure parts. Now, how exactly do they do that? Do they get a matching truck, remove the current part, put theirs in its place, do a full diagnostics and then decide it's good? Or do they just connect a battery and see if it makes some noise?
On a side note, I'm always wondering about sellers who claim they tested obscure parts. Now, how exactly do they do that? Do they get a matching truck, remove the current part, put theirs in its place, do a full diagnostics and then decide it's good? Or do they just connect a battery and see if it makes some noise?
Well, your question was a good one. I got word from my mechanic this morning that they installed the used part that I bought that supposedly worked, but long story short they said that it did not work properly. So now I have to send it back and get my money back from that eBay seller. Not to mention paying for removal of the non working part and then another install, plus more time..... :-(
I have just bought the fully rebuilt one from the eBay seller karpartzaddictionz72 that is supposedly fully rebuilt and gets good reviews from other users here on Mud. The saga continues.....
This is what the seller says: "This has been thoroughly inspected and tested. All needed parts has been replaced with cups and seals! WILL COME W/ NEW GENUINE ACCUMULATOR, NEWER DESIGN PUMP AND MOTOR INSTALLED!
High pressure and works excellent!"
- Thread starter
- #836
Sorry to hear that. At least you found out before you got to drive it and may be able to get some of your money back. That's something. It's always a gamble to try and save some $$, of course. Sometimes it doesn't pay off.
Personally, I would err on the side of caution if we're talking braking components for a big truck driven in town and would lean towards new OEM for that, if at all possible.
Personally, I would err on the side of caution if we're talking braking components for a big truck driven in town and would lean towards new OEM for that, if at all possible.
I will update my story on this soon, but for today, just a quick question: what do you all think is a fair asking price for a used/ non-working ABS module/ master cylinder part? i.e. for someone to rebuild.....
You know, the whole enchilada, that costs around $2300-2500 new.....part number 47210-60062 I believe.......thx, all!
You know, the whole enchilada, that costs around $2300-2500 new.....part number 47210-60062 I believe.......thx, all!
Hey all - so, the plot thickens. I got a brand new, OEM part for over $2200 online from McGeorge (supposedly 47210-60062) and then my mechanic calls me and says "the part is defective". He says there is one hole that is not large enough, even though it is threaded.....see picture here.
I am wondering if one of three things may have happened:
1) This part really is defective and there was an issue when it was manufactured
2) The part is perhaps mis-labeled or something and maybe it is for a 98-99 LC which (I believe) takes a different part number?
3) The mechanic is trying to screw the part in his fingers into that threaded opening...but it actually is supposed to go somewhere else? It was described to me as a "blocked off port"
My mechanic says the part number on the box is correct, but there is a sticker on the MC/ reservoir that says 47210-60012. I do know that sometimes Toyota changes/ supersedes part numbers.
Any experts here who can (hopefully) tell me what may be going on here!? Thanks!! And I hope everyone has a good 4th of July!!
I am wondering if one of three things may have happened:
1) This part really is defective and there was an issue when it was manufactured
2) The part is perhaps mis-labeled or something and maybe it is for a 98-99 LC which (I believe) takes a different part number?
3) The mechanic is trying to screw the part in his fingers into that threaded opening...but it actually is supposed to go somewhere else? It was described to me as a "blocked off port"
My mechanic says the part number on the box is correct, but there is a sticker on the MC/ reservoir that says 47210-60012. I do know that sometimes Toyota changes/ supersedes part numbers.
Any experts here who can (hopefully) tell me what may be going on here!? Thanks!! And I hope everyone has a good 4th of July!!
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98-99 have only one rear brake line. 00-up have two. There is also difference in pressure switch. 98-99 do not have one, first halve of 2000 has a switch that fits only that years wire harness. mid 00-up all have same switch & wire harness.
It's important to order using VIN #.
It's important to order using VIN #.
- Thread starter
- #840
I doubt very much that the part is "defective". It's not like it's easy to use the wrong drill and tap in an OEM manufacturing environment. Given what you said, it is likely it was just put in the wrong box, probably at the dealership. Should be easy to fix that with the dealer you bought from. And for a $2000 part, they better include some chocolates with the correct one...
