Poll on total brake failure in 100 series

Has your 100 series LC experienced total -or near total- brake failure?

  • No.

    Votes: 1,341 73.0%
  • Yes. My truck had between 0 and 50k miles at the time.

    Votes: 1 0.1%
  • Yes. My truck had between 50k and 100K at the time.

    Votes: 17 0.9%
  • Yes. My truck had between 100K and 150k at the time.

    Votes: 77 4.2%
  • Yes. My truck had between 150k and 200k at the time.

    Votes: 150 8.2%
  • Yes. My truck had between 200k and 250K at the time.

    Votes: 144 7.8%
  • Yes. My truck had between 250k and 300k at the time.

    Votes: 88 4.8%
  • Yes, My truck had over 300k at the time.

    Votes: 45 2.5%

  • Total voters
    1,836

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Just stumbled across this. Capital Toyota Lexus also has them for 1423. Im preemptively grabbing one, Are these made state side? 63 bucks standard shipping to GA. Expedited, 167. Total 1452.92 w/taxes. Including 20^ off of shipping. -12.66 for struggle cruisers such as myself.
 
Just another heads up.... For the next 8 days, Serra Toyota is having another parts sale. This time, 25% off with free shipping and no sales tax. If you're in need of a complete master cylinder with accumulator and pump, this is the time. This is the best price I have ever seen!

Screenshot 2025-09-14 at 18-27-03 Complete your Purchase.webp
 
Just another heads up.... For the next 8 days, Serra Toyota is having another parts sale. This time, 25% off with free shipping and no sales tax. If you're in need of a complete master cylinder with accumulator and pump, this is the time. This is the best price I have ever seen!

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Man… I wish mine would’ve lasted a couple of more years! The prices for the part are so much less expensive now.
 
Well, it happened this morning. My wife calls me (from the driveway, thank goodness) saying "the JDM Land Cruiser is making a really weird noise," and I go out and initially cannot hear anything, but then I have her pop the hood and, sure enough, grinding sounds from brake master. Then the buzzer comes on. So lucky timing. And she gets the Toyota spouse of the year award.

Unfortunately I need the 47050-60012 master (non/VSC) which is not included in the Serra sale and is $500 cheaper at TPD. (Yes I put it in the cart). Still way fewer dollars than I was imagining when I heard that noise!
 
Well, it happened this morning. My wife calls me (from the driveway, thank goodness) saying "the JDM Land Cruiser is making a really weird noise," and I go out and initially cannot hear anything, but then I have her pop the hood and, sure enough, grinding sounds from brake master. Then the buzzer comes on. So lucky timing. And she gets the Toyota spouse of the year award.

Unfortunately I need the 47050-60012 master (non/VSC) which is not included in the Serra sale and is $500 cheaper at TPD. (Yes I put it in the cart). Still way fewer dollars than I was imagining when I heard that noise!
Sorry to hear. Only a matter of time for all of us I suppose. But, i love that your wife says "THE JDM LAND CRUISER..." lol. Keeper, obviously.

So when this goes, the vehicle has 0 braking outside of the E-brake? Or no power brakes?

That other site above has it for 1400 down from 2100? https://parts.lexusofpembrokepines....ake-4705060012?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM= (not a shill for them) Just looked up the part #.
 
Sorry to hear. Only a matter of time for all of us I suppose. But, i love that your wife says "THE JDM LAND CRUISER..." lol. Keeper, obviously.

So when this goes, the vehicle has 0 braking outside of the E-brake? Or no power brakes?

That other site above has it for 1400 down from 2100? https://parts.lexusofpembrokepines.com/oem-parts/lexus-cylinder-assembly-brake-4705060012?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM= (not a shill for them) Just looked up the part #.
Yeah, both our vehicles are 100 series, so we call the JDM one "the Japanese Land Cruiser" to differentiate . . .

In our case, grinding sounds coming from the booster, followed by the dreaded beep and brake system warning light on the cluster. But I was able to back it down the driveway and brake to a stop just fine. I don't imagine it would've kept working for very long, though. . .

EDIT: I had too many tabs open and was looking at the wrong Toyota dealer--got the M/C from Serra for $1100 OTD!!! And I just ordered an AC condenser from them two days ago for our '04--what a great week to need expensive parts.

Interestingly, our US '04 brake master is still going strong at 200k miles; the JDM one died at around 72k miles, still looking brand new, and with gorgeous new-looking fluid in it.

IMG_6449.webp
 
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Most of the time its the brake booster motor that is failing - either the commutator is wearing/worn out, or the insulation is breaking down.
Hundreds of cars use the same motor, they are around $120 AUD on fleabay.
Two phillips head screws for the power leads, and two allen key bolts hold the motor onto the pump.
Awkward to get to, and you need to get a long allen key to get to them.
Fairly cheap, and relatively easy part to replace.
eg:
 
So when this goes, the vehicle has 0 braking outside of the E-brake? Or no power brakes?
Without pressure on the booster accumulator, you have no power brakes and no rear brakes. The rear brake line is fed by booster pressure only, not by the main piston in the brake master. The front brakes take a seriously high pressure to be effective, so thanks for having a very effective brake booster, as long as it works.

Without a working booster there is a really tiny bit of front braking, if you attack the brake pedal like your life was threatened (which it might actually be). It is soo weak that it feels like no brakes at all. In addition, the E-brake (parking brake) is not very efficient at speed, but at least keep it well maintained and adjusted so that you have a fighting chance. I find that the handbrake needs an annual clean and lube for a safe functioning.

We should take care and always stop right away if the brake warning light or buzzer comes on, and without pumping the brake at all. When/if the warning comes on because the booster motor stopped working, there should still be a bit of pressure in the booster accumulator to help you stop safely, but for each time you lift you foot from the pedal and press it again, you get less and less pressure and stopping power.
 
Without pressure on the booster accumulator, you have no power brakes and no rear brakes. The rear brake line is fed by booster pressure only, not by the main piston in the brake master. The front brakes take a seriously high pressure to be effective, so thanks for having a very effective brake booster, as long as it works.

Without a working booster there is a really tiny bit of front braking, if you attack the brake pedal like your life was threatened (which it might actually be). It is soo weak that it feels like no brakes at all. In addition, the E-brake (parking brake) is not very efficient at speed, but at least keep it well maintained and adjusted so that you have a fighting chance. I find that the handbrake needs an annual clean and lube for a safe functioning.

We should take care and always stop right away if the brake warning light or buzzer comes on, and without pumping the brake at all. When/if the warning comes on because the booster motor stopped working, there should still be a bit of pressure in the booster accumulator to help you stop safely, but for each time you lift you foot from the pedal and press it again, you get less and less pressure and stopping power.

ok. the 100 im restoring has constant screeching wheel sounds. Harmonic metal that speeds up as car speeds up. (been sitting 5 years) hoping its pads/rotor rust. maybe caliper seized, but I have no lights or buzzing noises. Drove it to gas station to fill up, up hill, and down hill, brakes worked for sure. Compared to my 2014 elantra it just felt like a lot of vehicle to stop, but boy did it coast over the speed bumps in my neighborhood. I slammed on the brakes, they're definitely working.

I bought one of these just in case when I posted link. But no brakes is a no go. Yikes. Will replace or get mechanic to, brakes are scary. It seems like a bit more of a science than DIY.

I'm new to all of this so I thought Braking was akin to power steering, meaning it just takes more work if hydraulics fail but you can still stop the thing if need be (Like you can still parallel park a car w/o power steering but you need to be John Cena to do so)
 
My wife was driving the 100 yesterday and about a block from the house siren went off constantly and ABS/VSC lights are on. No CEL. I have been vigilant about listening to the booster pump and it always runs for about 30sec after starting over night. Now when I turn the key on it does not come on at all. I can hear the solenoids in the fuse box clicking but nothing comes on.

Is it time for a new master cylinder? Or if its the motor can that just be replaced if if has seized? Truck has 241K miles on it so its up there in miles lol
 
You can test the motor. Connect the two leads to 12v. Toyota only sells the motor with the pump and is quite spendy.... might as well buy the entire assembly. Aftermarket motor is available though.
 
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My wife was driving the 100 yesterday and about a block from the house siren went off constantly and ABS/VSC lights are on. No CEL. I have been vigilant about listening to the booster pump and it always runs for about 30sec after starting over night. Now when I turn the key on it does not come on at all. I can hear the solenoids in the fuse box clicking but nothing comes on.

Is it time for a new master cylinder? Or if its the motor can that just be replaced if if has seized? Truck has 241K miles on it so its up there in miles lol
Whereas likely motor need replacing or rebuilding. Power not passing through ABS unit to booster motor, is a possibility.

Even if I did, know year, miles an condition of key parts. I'd make sure power and signals getting to master, YES! I'd be recommended the whole brake master be replaced. 25% sale coming up, Non 24th.
 
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You can test the motor. Connect the two leads to 12v. Toyota only sells the motor with the pump and is quite spendy.... might as well buy the entire assembly. Aftermarket motor is available though.

Whereas likely motor need replacing or rebuilding. Power not passing through ABS unit to booster motor is possibly.

Even if I did, know year, miles an condition of key parts. I'd make sure power and signals getting to master, YES! I'd be recommended the whole brake master be replaced. 25% sale coming up, Non 24th.

Thanks guys, I will test if the motor is getting power prior to ordering the whole unit. Just to make sure. when I order the master its the entire assembly correct? We have a 3rd car so I'm just going to do a little additional maintenance while I wait for the sale on the 24th and to get the part.
 
There is some discussion going on of total and sudden braking failure in 100 series models, with reports of no -or essentially no- braking left at all a very short time (of the order of seconds/minutes) after dashboard warnings. That is scary stuff. It is, however, also difficult to find out how prevalent a problem that is based on just anecdotal evidence. So let's find out a bit more and see if we can get a better feel for how common a problem this really is. I'll just put out a few options in a quick poll here. Yes, yes, this is not scientific etc etc. But it may either help put some folks at ease or prod some into taking proactive measures. If it helps increase the visibility of a possible problem and prevent one accident, that is great.

So, here you go. You can only vote for a 100 you personally have at this time. If you have more than one 100 -or in the unlikely event you had 2 distinct failures- you may pick more than one option or ask another Mudder to vote for you if the system won't let you do it all yourself (if you have 2 Nos to report for example.) Do not vote for somebody else's current truck, but you can report a failure experienced by a previous owner of your current vehicle. I'll leave this open to changes so you can change your pick in a while if -I hope not- you experience the problem at some later date. I'll put in various mileage options in case there is some pattern to it that might emerge and help narrow things down. Feel free to post and elaborate a bit on circumstances, warning signs, resolution etc, that may be helpful to others. Be sure to vote as well if you have NOT experienced this or the results will be skewed. The more folks who vote, the more meaningful the stats will be. Everybody who looks at this thread and personally has a 100, please vote!
Mine was no. 331000 miles on a 2002
 
Mine started giving me issues at 180,000 miles. I changed the fluid in the reservoir and it went away for a couple of weeks. I replaced the fluid in the reservoir again and I have been good for 3-4 months. If the brake booster starts to make noise again on start up I'll change it again one last time or do a complete fluid change of the system. I'm glad to have dragged my feet on ordering a new brake booster assembly as I have noticed the prices coming down. I remember when they were around $1,750, then went down to $1,300 and now you can get one for $1050.
 
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Mine was $2,100 with the Mud discount a number of years ago, so that is an excellent price.
 
Toyota/Lexus USA ran out of all but 03-07, in 2021. Of the whole brake master ASSY (brake booster ASSY w/brake Master). For the 98-99 and the early 2000 later the 2000-2002 model units. We were, finding some brake master, then adding brake booster ASSY. Which cost a lot more, when buying separately. Then in 2022, a cargo load came in USA. Of every type/model. Prices drop by ~$800. First time ever, I saw Toyota parts cost drop. They typical increase all prices 4 times or more each year. Over the next 4 years, list prices of these booster w/masters, steadily rose.

Today we're having difficult getting early 2000. I found last two AFSIK, in USA. Which was master only, so had to purchase booster separately, costly!

I've not channel check, how many of each model in USA today. But I'll bet inventory is low. We've no way of knowing if they'll discontinue production. But I suspect they'll not discontinue.

But word is, Toyota will have biggest price increase in history, in January.
 
My 2006 LX brake booster pump failed at about 100K miles. I got the buzzer warning, and once I used up the reserve pressure I lost boost. The brakes still worked, but I had to push 3x as hard.
 
Today we're having difficult getting early 2000.

But word is, Toyota will have biggest price increase in history, in January.

Are the assemblies interchangeable at all?

When I enter my VIN on Bell Lexus there are several available options showing THIS FITS YOUR 2000 Lexus LX 470, such as part number 47050-60042.

HOWEVER, when I put my VIN into Partsouq it gives part number 47050-60041, which is over $2k and unavailable.

My truck has no brake issues, but I was thinking to beat the price increases and keep the assembly on hand just in case.
 
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