PIG + Chebby Avalanche Trim =? (1 Viewer)

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Would a set of 2 piece headers not worked? 3 into 1?

Prolly would but the way I have it designed it's the most compact way *possible. It'd be a lot more work & bulky too as I have both types to look at for reference. Heck, I could have just bought misc curved pieces & butt welded everthing but I wanted to avoid that as much as possible. ;)
 
Re: Remake Headers Vs. Cutting Frame

As Barry suggested earlier & I assume *most, who do not like to fabricate, would be concerned about cutting into the frame & would rather buy or remake the headers & frame notching would be totally outta the question.

Well, lets put it this way: it took me 2 1/2 hrs to cut & modify the frame as is versus taking $180.00 worth of tube, 2 weekends & a few nights during the week to remake these headers, which way would you go? ;p
 
just throwing this out there.... looking at all the work you've done so far, one cannot claim a lack of strength on any of the fabrication, so what would lead anyone to believe your frame modification would be anything less than strong?

BTW, could you take a shot of the whole rig? Thanks for posting your build.
 
just throwing this out there.... looking at all the work you've done so far, one cannot claim a lack of strength on any of the fabrication, so what would lead anyone to believe your frame modification would be anything less than strong?

BTW, could you take a shot of the whole rig? Thanks for posting your build.


I wouldnt question the strength of any other thing hes fabbed but I will always question anyone cutting 1/2 the frame off, if I had seen what was done on the inside I might not question it as much but when you start some hard wheeling theres gonna be a lot of tourque on that and its not gonna help that its sitting at about 300 degrees cause the exhaust is now 1/4" away. Also maybe its just the angle but in the first picture it actually looks like its warped now.
 
Gordo will get on his case if it's not right. :flipoff2:
If it's not already just fine, it will be when Chuck's done.
I just like giving him a hard time about his truck.....and watching his creative approach.
I remember when Chuck and I had basically stock trucks with drum brakes and he nearly ran over me in reverse because he couldn't stop on a hill.
Things have certainly changed from then.
I'm sure Chuck will give me an equally hard time about my diesel swap at GSMTR.....so.....
 
I wouldnt question the strength of any other thing hes fabbed but I will always question anyone cutting 1/2 the frame off, if I had seen what was done on the inside I might not question it as much but when you start some hard wheeling theres gonna be a lot of tourque on that and its not gonna help that its sitting at about 300 degrees cause the exhaust is now 1/4" away. Also maybe its just the angle but in the first picture it actually looks like its warped now.

I guess an inner frame pic would've hushed the crowd as it's only a ~1" X 2" chunk taken out. There's no warping at all, if you look at your own frame, it actually bends just past the rear cut. ;)
 
Gordo will get on his case if it's not right. :flipoff2:
If it's not already just fine, it will be when Chuck's done.
I just like giving him a hard time about his truck.....and watching his creative approach.
I remember when Chuck and I had basically stock trucks with drum brakes and he nearly ran over me in reverse because he couldn't stop on a hill.
Things have certainly changed from then.
I'm sure Chuck will give me an equally hard time about my diesel swap at GSMTR.....so.....

:lol: Oh yeah, dbl pump drum brakes & creek crossings :eek: Never have to worry about that anymore with newly hydroboost installed :bounce:
 
So did Mike finally get your hydroboost brakes installed??? If so it only took him what...a year!!!
 
So did Mike finally get your hydroboost brakes installed??? If so it only took him what...a year!!!

It's been there since Nov. I'm not really concerned about how long it's taken as the rig has no top & no heater so it's not going to be driven in the winter. Plus, I'd rather have the space to lay out PIG projects in the space the 40 takes up ;p I told Mike to take his time as long as it's ready by GSMTR.
 
Frame Reinforcement/ Frame Link Mount

Still have a little cleanup to do around the frame area where I notched it. I added another 1 3/4" 1/4" wall DOM piece at the bottom thru the frame & 3 - 1" dia. tubes at the top to help eliminate any flex. I plug welded the top one's & capped them. I wanted to get as much weld material as possible around all connections:
DSC00481.webp
 
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Inner frame pic. I have a little touch up welding & grinding left to do, so It's kinda rough. Getting situated to weld this area was pretty much a circus act. The welding mask & both arms & gun wouldn't fit from the top & I couldn't see good or get the gun at the right angle from underneath.
DSC00482.webp
 
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'Po Man's Orion/ Front Outer Frame Link Mount:

Got my Marlin 3.64 geared tcase #16, along with the Pardi Plate stiffener, all bolted up to the AA adaptor & SM420 finally :bounce: Instead of using a plate style adaptor, I wanted maximum front driveshaft length & I already had this adaptor I removed from my 40. I finished the last of the frame link mounts too. I have plans, & already started bending up, a drop down skid plate. So, that'll be next.
Oh yeah, my cryo-rimmed R & P came in so my front diff is currently being setup & my headers went off to the ceramic coater Monday. So far, everything's moving along smoothly ;p
DSC00484.webp
DSC00483.webp
 
Got my Marlin 3.64 geared tcase #16, along with the Pardi Plate stiffener, all bolted up to the AA adaptor & SM420 finally :bounce: Instead of using a plate style adaptor, I wanted maximum front driveshaft length & I already had this adaptor I removed from my 40. I finished the last of the frame link mounts too. I have plans, & already started bending up, a drop down skid plate. So, that'll be next.
Oh yeah, my cryo-rimmed R & P came in so my front diff is currently being setup & my headers went off to the ceramic coater Monday. So far, everything's moving along smoothly ;p

what is the poor mans orion? Haven't heard of those Marlin geared cases :confused:

btw: looks awesome!
 
what is the poor mans orion? Haven't heard of those Marlin geared cases :confused:

btw: looks awesome!

Prolly around 10 yrs. ago, Marlin designed & mfg'd. sets of lower gears for the stock tcase = 3.64 was the ratio. He advised the buyers to use a 4 spd. case with the gearset as to maximize case strength. Either the cases weren't holding up or the gears were failing is why he stopped production, AFAIK. My main gear cluster has been tig welded. I spent half of what an Orion costs to get *almost as low tcase gears. Since my drivetrain is very basic & low powered, I'm sure I'll be fine with the stock case ;)
 
Skid Plate:

:eek: That hack cut into the frame again :rolleyes:
Anyway, got the initial 1/4" wall 1 3/4" DOM bars bent up & mocked in place. I have the pieces for the drop down area (high on the frame on the left side)already fabbed. I'll show that next, once I get the right side mounted against the frame:
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Got The Main Skeleton Done:

Sticking with my ongoing "lightweight" theme :lol: I originally wasn't going to cover the SM420 - saving a little weight there, thinkin the cast iron bottom was good enough protection. However, I bent the shorter bar to tightly around the tranny. I needed some length there & I didn't want to throw that piece in the scrap pile so I thought I'd bend up a 180 deg. bar to cover it. All these bars are 1 3/4" X 1/4" wall DOM = spendy. I got my mounting piece for my adaptor from AA, so I'll fab up the connection to the skid next. I still have a frame mount to do on the foreground bar too. You can see, on the right side, how the skid will swing down for easy access to the tcase/ tranny. I'll get a better shot of that later. I'll cover the skid with 1/4" wall perforated metal.......
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Time Out For Some "Artwork"

Saw my favorite band last night at the Fox - still recovering..... I put down the power tools & decided to do some easy stuff. I just finished up scrambling around tryin to get my 40 ready for GSMTR. Here, I just used an exacto knife & traced the logo, leaving an easy pattern to paint - it's like paint by numbers ;p Yeah, I could just spray it now, but nope I'm "freehandin" it. BTW, it's already cut out:
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