PIG + Chebby Avalanche Trim =?

[LC_Hamma]

It never dawned on me to install the inner seal like you got there. I've always retubed with turned inner seals. It got to be nice to get your torch/gun in there to weld with both ends open.

We're leaving the park's 40, 30 spline, for now, it's already has a ARB up front and they'll all get 35 spline not too long down the road.

You some where around 63" Wms to Wms ??

I wanted this conversion to be as simple as possible since I've never done this type of precision mod before. I'll be at 60" WMS. Next step is to have the R & P cryo'd since that'll be my next weak link. I'll also cryo the shafts after they've been cut & splined. I'll be using Bobby's treated u-joints too.....

 

[LC_Hamma]

Rear Link Tower/ Lower Link Tabs

Well, after pondering if these 1/4" wall brackets are really beefy enough, I spoke to the master fabber at Gordofab Engineering. He said 3/8" would be better due to the forces of the cycling suspension loads. Too bad cuz I put allota time into these & drilling those big holes really suck!. Now, back to the grinding table to make these in 3/8"........

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Bummer.. I would think 1/4" is fine on both sides.. Once you get it mocked up, there shouldn't be too much side to side play that I think could bend or compromise 1/4".. Just my $.02 on it..

 

[LC_Hamma]

Rear Frame Link Mounts:

Yeah, maybe 1/4" *might be okay, but what's a little more grinder dust on the floor.

I thought I'd knock these out after my 2nd design. Went thru the frame w/ 2" 1/4" wall DOM for the bottom link, 3/8" plate for the mounts. Next pics will be of the axle link mounts.

 

[LC_Hamma]

Rear Center Axle Link Mounts:

This *should be beefy enough, I hope. Changed a little bit from my original design using 3/8" plate, just cooling off. Axle end links/ lower coil mounts are next, then shock mounts....

 

[projektdotnet]

Nice fab work!

 

[LC_Hamma]

Nice fab work!

Thanks dude! The fan on my welder was working overtime today. I had it cranked almost all the way up. So far I'm pleased with the rear suspension design. I may add a few more gussets on the upper frame link mount though. Just finished the lower rear axle link mounts, just gotta burn 'em in

 

[LC_Hamma]

Rear Lower Axle Link Mounts

Just as my original design, but in 3/8" plate. I added a small skid on the bottom, 1/4" wall DOM, so nothing can get wedged up there. I figured my upper links are 46", lower links are 38" ctr. to ctr. Now for the lower coil mounts.....

 

[LC_Hamma]

Lower Axle Coil Buckets:

Finished locating these, pretty easy too. I have the shocks mocked in place for their mounting location, which is next:

 

[rutbeer]

So what kind of Caterpillar engine is going to power this?
You have got to be tipping the scales at some 6,000 pounds when this is done.
Get crackin....you don't have much time before GSMTR.

 

[LC_Hamma]

So what kind of Caterpillar engine is going to power this?
You have got to be tipping the scales at some 6,000 pounds when this is done.
Get crackin....you don't have much time before GSMTR.

McCoin :shotts:

Anyway, just gotta get some shocks & links installed, then the rear is done
Onto the front links/ skid plate - In order to tuck the link mounts as close to the inside of the frame, welded to the skid plate, I had to remove the old header & start fabbin up a new one that dumps above the motor mount. Here's the old rusty tubes cut off, flange & collector prepared & 1/16" wall DOM 1 1/2" capped on both ends & filled with sand. Don't wanna kink or distort the thin-walled tube:

 

[LC_Hamma]

Custom Header:

Got the tubes bent, tacked to the header flange & mocked in place. Looks like it'll be close to the frame so a minor adjustment will need to be made with the BFH. The collector flange will need some heating & bending to fit over the end of the tubes. I did experience some tube kinking & mis-measuring on a few of them so I butt-welded to fit. I may hot coat these later:

 

[rutbeer]

tubing

repost??? wha???
Sweet tube work on the headers. I have always wanted to try that.
You know, I may be beating a dead horse with the motor, but this week I picked up a 91 80 series with the 3FE. For close to 6,000 that motor moves it along quite well. I don't really see what everyone complains about with the 3FE....so desmogged 2F with some warming won't be too bad and will still kick butt on the trail.

 

[LC_Hamma]

Repost on the weight & will it be ready for GSMTR issues ;p

Well, a little more accurate measuring & I wouldn't have to fab up a new collector as it's too close to the frame & motor mount I'd have to notch the frame for the flange, where the exhaust bolts onto. So, even though it looks ready to bolt up, I ain't using this collector. Onto making one from scratch....

 

[Farr off road]

It does look good, to bad it won't work!

We missed ya at the meeting last night.

 

[LC_Hamma]

It does look good, to bad it won't work!

We missed ya at the meeting last night.

Yeah, I got hit with a hailstorm as I was leaving work & figured I-285 would be swamped. I notched the frame for clearance but the collector dumps right into the motor mount. So, the headers *work, just not the collector. ;p

 

[LC_Hamma]

Headers Are Done:

I started with the leftover curved DOM tubing I cut off from the old Conn Ferr front bumper, which was a perfect choice. Many hours were spent heating, cutting, & forming to get the correct flow from the base of the header tubes. I even cut a new flange so I can bolt up my stainless exhaust. Now, it's off to a local hot-coater for the ceramic treatment - Professional Cryogenics in Cumming, Ga. It's the same place I'm getting my R & P cryoed & rimmed.

 

[LC_Hamma]

Header Mounted In Engine Bay:

Got the clearanced part of the frame finished up, looks like I've got 1/4" between the frame & header. I hope the motor mounts don't let the engine flex more than that. I need to stick to more accurate measurements than just eyeballin it. I may just remove a little more around the critical area:

 

[rutbeer]

frame notch


Tell me that notch is only at the top and not all the way down.
You got balls for doing that.....I would have remade the headers.

 

[LC_Hamma]

Tell me that notch is only at the top and not all the way down.
You got balls for doing that.....I would have remade the headers.

I only said I was finished with the initial boxing, not totally done as I still have to plate the area w/ 1/4" wall, which is next. The portion removed is about halfway & I used 3/16 mat'l. As long as it's reinforced *properly, I see no problem cutting or modifying the frame anywhere on the vehicle. If you knew what I paid a ft. for that tubing, surely you would not scrap them ;p