Pics and oem p/n's- rear main/clutch change

[bsmith123]

Well all my clutch stuff arrived so I thought I'd post it up. All this stuff is OEM Toyota courtesy of CruiserDan.

First pic is the flywheel after turning. .020 step, I got this done in fort walton beach for $45 at a auto/marine machine shop--guy said he had some 40 parts earlier in the week! probably NWFLC (the local club).

He quoted $125 for a valve job, about $80 more to replace everything and completely overhaul the head.

next is the new late model diaphragm style clutch
Rear Main Seal

I got a slide hammer and pivot bearing removal tool on loan from the auto parts store--More and TECH pics as I change it out. I will also post pics of the 3 speed stuff for comparison

 

[bsmith123]

parts

Here is the pilot seal, hub for the throwout bearing, and clips

 

[bsmith123]

parts

here is the clutch fork for the later model diaphragm style clutch

 

[bsmith123]

back to work

Thought I would show some of the differences between the older finger style clutch parts that came with my 3 speed and the parts for the newer diaphragm style clutch I am using with the 4 speed.

here is the clutch forks, throw out bearing hubs and bell housings
the installed bell housing is the 4 speed one

 

[bsmith123]

clutch change

here is the pilot bearing removal tool I got on loan from the auto parts---didnt work though! The hooks were too big to go through the center of the bearing.

The slide hammer with one hook on it worked just fine though

I pre-fit the pilot bearing onto the trans shaft and sure enough it was too small and would not go on, a few minutes with some 120 then 400 emery cloth on the trans shaft and it slid right on--(Thanks for the tip Poser!)

Also a pic of the bearing installed

on the left side you can see the bolt that holds the ball that the fork pivots on

 

[bsmith123]

clutch

old clutch and pressure plate and new

 

[bsmith123]

clutch alignment tool

Here's a clutch alignment tool I made by cutting the shaft off a junk tranny.

pics show the tool, how it fits in the clutch, and a pic of how it is actually used during the install
With the pressure plate supported by the pins and one bolt you can slide the tool in and by feel find the bearing hole
when you do it goes in quite a bit so you can be positive about it being in---once it is in it holds the clutch up and keeps it centered while you put the bolts in the pressure plate.

Also a good idea to make sure your tool slides in and out of the clutch housing easily, I dinged mine and put a couple burrs on the tool spline but that was easily remedied with a little filing with a swiss file and sanding

 

[bsmith123]

Rear Main Seal

Here are some pics of the Rear Main Seal change

The yellow line shows where the oil pan would be, 2 of the bearing cap bolts are inside the oil pan.

still have 1 busted oil pan bolt to get out of the block but it is a little proud of the surface so I am hoping I will be lucky. the pan was stuck on a little I heated it all round with a blow torch, whacked the pan a few times and sprayed pb blaster around the seams. I had to separate the seam with a paint scraped and hammer, then prised it down.



Also the new seal going on and a pic of where I put some high temp copper sealant around the cap mating surface

 

[bsmith123]

cap bolts

heres two views of the cap bolts and one not very good pick of the oil pan. You can see the baffles in the pan at least. What surprised me was that there was no sludge in the pan. The pan was a little hard to come off but not excessive but it may take more force than you would think. Once I got it open up a little with the scraper I stuck a big ol prybar in there---even when one side was off the other hung on and I kept checking to see if I missed a bolt but with enough pushing it popped off and luckily left the seal intact on the engine side---since I didnt order a new one that was a stroke of luck.


All in all not a bad job to do but get all you need together

brake cleaner is a good thing to have if you get any grease on the flywheel or clutch, I was pretty careful about that but you will get prints on the flywheel no matter what you do.

The main seal goes in one way so pay attention when you pull it out, same with the throw out bearing

dont forget to put the clutch fork and t/o bearing in before you mount the tranny.


I havent had any luck finding long guide bolts for the tranny and my trans jack adapter will not fit my floor jack which is pretty small
so I took the seats out and the gas tank and tranny tunnel and put a saw horse inside and hung my come-along from that---remains to be see if that work. I've got some lumber to rig something else up J.I.C.

I spent the rest of the evening cleaning on the trans and transfer case
Trans install to follow

 

[Coolerman]

Good work there! You'll be up and running in no time.

So what did the Toyota parts set you back?

 

[bsmith123]

Trans pics

Thanks Cooler,

Well I am killing time waiting for paint to dry so heres a few pics of the trans "tarted up"

After cleaning with the usual noxious mix of chemicals and solvents I gave it a wash with simple green then TSP. Gave it a once over with a 3M stripping pad on a drill to get off the rust and oxidation.

First two coats of rust bullet then a top coat with rustoleum hammered black and hammered silver.

 

[bsmith123]

a couple more pics

here's a couple more

 

[bsmith123]

$ for parts

Cooler

I think it all came to about $350 for parts, whole job probably $400 with sealant, loctite, etc. The rear main seal was like 40 or 50 bucks! But it's all OEM

 

[bsmith123]

job done

I finished up the 4 speed install today here it is sitting in my 71 at last.

Here is the pathetic solution to the problem of my trans adapter not fitting my jack. I used this cobbled up saw horse and just set it up in the cab. I used a come along and chain but the come along ran out of room to wind up cables so I ran out and got another cheap ratchet strap and used them front and rear. It worked!

Had to use guide bolts 3/8 worked good but the next time I do this i will have the 3 ton jack I need for my trans adapter---makes it so easy!


I struggled with the motor mounts for a while only to realize I was trying to install them on the wrong side. This was just a case of getting in a "garage fog" as soon as I sat for a minute to take a break it struck me as I looked at the shape of the mount and then I remembered they are unique to each side--Oh well. Three mounts are in but I ran out of steam trying to line up the drivers aft mount so since it was getting dark also I quit for the day.


So that ends the transmission saga except for one issue. Driveshafts wont fit on the 4 spd. Back when I bought the FJ I bought some shafts cheap on Ebay figuring that is a good thing to have spare, when I got them one was visibly shorter than what I had and they looked a little different--so tomorrow it's digging thru the parts to find them---did I accidently get it right and buy 4 spd shafts?

 

[bsevans]

The main seal goes in one way so pay attention when you pull it out, same with the throw out bearing

According to figure 3-125 in the FSM you may have put your rear main seal in backwards. The face of the seal with the exposed spring should go in first. Maybe all the grease is confusing what I see in the photo. If so, my apologies. Why would you put grease on the outside of a seal? I do not see what purpose it serves.

 

[amaurer]

According to figure 3-125 in the FSM you put your rear main seal in backwards. The face of the seal with the exposed spring should go in first.

Looks that way to me... ?

 

[Kroll]

I did the exact conversion this summer. I am surprised that your clutch kit did not come with a line-up tool. I have a few kickin' around my place made out of plastic.
Yes, the rear main seal with the inner-spring should always be facing inwards.
Also, since you need longer shafts, you will probably need universal pinion-flange or one robbed from a later axle. Since the bolt pattern does vary in latter years.
Good job! You are going to enjoy that 4 speed. I can never go back now.

 

[bsmith123]

seal

"According to figure 3-125 in the FSM you may have put your rear main seal in backwards. The face of the seal with the exposed spring should go in first. Maybe all the grease is confusing what I see in the photo. If so, my apologies. Why would you put grease on the outside of a seal? I do not see what purpose it serves."


The little squares go on the outside or towards the aft if you prefer, so the spring side is toward the front (engine side).



Packing the seal with grease helps hold the spring in according to some on the outside well I just wiped it on there for S&G's

Thanks for paying attention though it could have saved me some grief had it been wrong way round and at this stage it's only a few bolts and a fliparoo. Not tomention I hate to post it up wrong and have someone mess theirs up, that would be worse than re-accomplishing my own I think--All's well though

I am waiting for my 2f manual so I looked up poser's change and also got my torque specs here, cant wait for my FSM though cause ya gave me a start there! But like I said----it would be a good thing if someone catches a mistake I made so thanks again

 

[lostmarbles]

Nice work

 

[bsmith123]

bump for Pando

TTT

for pando