Pics and oem p/n's- rear main/clutch change

[mcwinery]

I am starting my tranny install today. This really is helpful. Thanks for the thread

 

[wombat]

i am going to do the same job in the next month and i have two questions
1- do you have to remove the oil pan to replace the rear main seal
2-why the high temp copper sealant on the cap mating surfaces

 

[bsmith123]

sealant and oil pan

1- do you have to remove the oil pan to replace the rear main seal
2-why the high temp copper sealant on the cap mating surfaces

1. No if you look at post #15 you will find some people use a PVC cap as a seal driver and tap them in. This works good for some but some have had messed up seals so I went the route of pulling the last main bearing cap. The seal goes in easy that way plus I am redoing nearly all the seals including the oil pan


2. Dont quote me but I believe the FSM recommends sealant there I just happen to use copper high temp on engine stuff. The idea is to keep oil from wicking out along the seams I guess

Gives you a chance to see what the crank and bearing look like too

 

[bsmith123]

Most importantly ----check before the install that the clutch is the right way round it will not go either way---there is a front and back----look at the hub where the spline goes in ----in the pics above see how it sitcks out on one side and is nearly flat on the other?

pretty sure the out side goes towards the engine just note yours on the removal

also make sure you pre fit your new pilot bearing before you put the tranny in. If it does not fit smoothly just take some emery cloth to the shaft until it does--- then install it

One final note make sure you take note which way the throw out bearing goes in ---some are obvious some are not, mine was barely curved on the side towards the engine

 

[PabloCruise]

What happened to your images?

 

[bsmith123]

images

dunno I can still see them?

 

[PabloCruise]

dunno I can still see them?

I can see them now - thank you!