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Builds Phildoh build thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Phildoh
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- Thread starter
- #242
I've seen your rig a bunch of times in pics here and there, saw the article in (iirc)4wdTO? Sick rig man, I'm jealous, but working towards a similar ending setup. I have a damm truckload of questions about your rig, but I'll stick to the topic! I plan on the 3/4 ton springs as I have a full-size spare hanging off the back, dual jerrycans, hi-lift, and a lot of weight just from my gear. Trail tools are heavy, and add the Mrs, daughter, and all their gear and we're well into the 7k/lb range, so I'm going to need the added height for all that jazz, and I'm not one to shy away from a taller rig, I just take the slightly less difficult lines and enjoy it all the same!3/4 ton chevy 63s with 14" smooth bodies and a 14 bolt. Dunno if the 14 bolt has enough of an offset diff to clear gas tank and driveline, but I think probably. I no longer have stock tcase or gas tank so I can't say.
Works good for me. Rides decent. Flexes well. Took a few tries to find the right pack with all the weight I have. I think a beefed up 1/2 ton 63 pack would be fine for most but the 3/4 tons are working better for me.
-Did you have to modify the spring packs or are the 3/4t a plug and play as far as height and weight carrying capabilities? As seen I'm going to run the creeper shackles to free up a bit if torsional resistance, built my own years ago and they worked really well, so I figure if I do end up with a stiffer, taller pack it can't do anything but help it twist.
-If you kept the axle location in the wheel well the same or relatively close, how far is the shackle mount from the rear of the frame? Close estimate works, I'm just trying to get a relative idea for a mount idea I have cooking.
-Is your rear axle full width? Maybe it's the 80's being the mid size that makes a full width look not as crazy wide!
- Thread starter
- #243
60f/14r is down the road a ways. Too many other things going on in life at the moment to do that. I also want to change up my trans/tcase before full widths, but eventually I will get there. I want to avoid "BOOM" as much as possible. As far as that goes, is $600 still the ballpark price for rear shafts? I thought I had seen some in the lower $400 range, but couldn't find any availability, maybe a discounted part? Maybe Poly Performance was the ones I saw for cheaper?
Nitro rear shafts run $450/pair most places.
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
I have no idea. What I do know is I would rather put $600 into a 14bolt than $600 into an axle that isn't going to cut it.
Heck you can get a 14 bolt for $150 bucks if you shop a little. I think @wv_lx450 has a non-modified one outback... He might have a fuel cell though - can't remember.
You'll definitely want to use the 3/4 springs vs the 1/2 ton. There's a reason mini-trucks with only a couple hundred lbs total on the back end of them use the 1/2 ton springs with success. When placing your spring hangers, consider that your axle will move towards the rear under compression. By how much depends on your initial shackle angle and the length of the shackle. You'll need to find the sweet spot in hanger position. Measure the flat length of your springs (i.e. when under max compression) and let that be your straight line length between hangers + shackle length.. so that ideally under full compression you have a flat spring and a flat shackle. This is the theory at least... there are more detailed posts on Pirate. Put your bumps just before it hits this point, and you're golden. I measured and measured and still didn't get it quite right. Effective spring rate will be a factor of your leaf pack specs and the shackle angle. More angle = lower effective spring rate. You can alter the ride height with longer shackles, small blocks (tapered to correct pinion angle), or filler leaves at the bottom of the pack. I've been toying with my springs on my 4runner for the last year, so this is just my 2 cents. Maybe something in here will help you out.
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Thanks man. Petersons4wd mag and online at fourwheeler.com It's a never ending evolution and project.
Thats about where I'm at with weight and height and unfortantely it'd be hard to have it sit lower and retain any uptravel.
I ran a set of 1/2 ton 63s for a while but they eventually got beat down and I kept adding weight until I really needed to do something about it. I did build my own bastard packs, with a few variations, but decided I was either going to bend or break a main leaf. I didn't find a lot of info online about 3/4 ton 63s and until my buddy told me I could check out the set of springs on his 3/4 ton he was scrapping did I even know they existed. So I swapped those in and it was a night and day difference. Stock 3/4 tons, not sure if it makes any difference that it was a 6.5 diesel but like I said, it's not easy to find any info on these 3/4 ton 63" springs. I think the creeper shackles are a good plan. I know with all the flex I have I'm twisting the pack a lot.
I think I'm still pretty centered in the wheel well. Let me see...
Yep it's a full width 14bolt. The front is actually a touch wider. Outside tire to outside tire is around 82"
WMS on those 14 bolts is like ~68"
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Just in front of body mounts
- Thread starter
- #249
Now THATS a thing of beauty!!!Just in front of body mounts
Another thought I had was that with the extra width of your axle, I wonder how that acts in regards to leverage when articulating. Yes, were heavy with our rigs, so the 3/4t seems like a no brainier. I think if it were a bit stiff I could even remove a leaf if need be.
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
I did put back in the clamp bolt but this is where I think your creeper shackles will help. Also a look at the pack itself.
Yes you can always pull a leaf.
I think its a great setup but like with anything outside the bolt on box, it takes playing with to get it all figured out. Ive been building this for years now and its never done haha.
Yes you can always pull a leaf.
I think its a great setup but like with anything outside the bolt on box, it takes playing with to get it all figured out. Ive been building this for years now and its never done haha.
- Thread starter
- #251
Doing this swap on my 84pu back in the day taught me how good they work. Seeing this image just confirms that they work great. How's the ride height on flat ground? @maxamillion2345
- Thread starter
- #252
Took LaFawnduh out to Prairie City today to make sure the new PS pump, cooler and all the lines were working properly and all is well. Picked up my first dent today too, came down off a ledge and bounced off my rear (bumper thingy) tubing and it flexed into the tin a bit. I can expect miracles when it literally bounced from about two feet above. Dent, finally broke her in I guess (like the snapped rear end wasn't enough of a break-in!), bound to happen, glad it was 1/4" long and near invisible unless looking for it! Dropped from a height close to the first picture }8P
Point of impact...
And the huge wrinkle in the right quarter panel
Otherwise we had a great day. Ready to swap all the suspension now after seeing g all these leaf sprung rigs today on 40"+ tires taking some crazy lines. Like "how didn't that flop" lines. Oh well, time to gather up the springs and a bunch of grinder and flap discs, another spool of wire and dammit, maybe I'll remember to grab new gloves this time (forgot a half dozen times or so now) so the blistery bubbles stay away. Need to fab up a traction bar/anti wrap bar like @maxamillion2345 has to keep the pinion from flying away into the clouds. Hopefully the height I want is there with a 3/4T pack, otherwise I'm on the fence between a drop hanger (was thinking of a small (height, maybe a couple inches) boxed in mount, or even a crossmember)) or just running a 2" block. I myself have never had a problem with blocks in my own rig. Seen many people have horrible outcomes from having them and not checking ubolts/snapping a leaf center pin. And with an anti-wrap bar it shouldn't be a problem as always. Thoughts guys? I know the pros/cons associated with blocks, and I always use cast iron, not aluminum. I'm also aware of if I made a 2" drop for the shackle mound, it would only met 1" of lift. Other thoughts? Ideas? Suggestion questions? Chime on in!
P
Point of impact...
And the huge wrinkle in the right quarter panel
Otherwise we had a great day. Ready to swap all the suspension now after seeing g all these leaf sprung rigs today on 40"+ tires taking some crazy lines. Like "how didn't that flop" lines. Oh well, time to gather up the springs and a bunch of grinder and flap discs, another spool of wire and dammit, maybe I'll remember to grab new gloves this time (forgot a half dozen times or so now) so the blistery bubbles stay away. Need to fab up a traction bar/anti wrap bar like @maxamillion2345 has to keep the pinion from flying away into the clouds. Hopefully the height I want is there with a 3/4T pack, otherwise I'm on the fence between a drop hanger (was thinking of a small (height, maybe a couple inches) boxed in mount, or even a crossmember)) or just running a 2" block. I myself have never had a problem with blocks in my own rig. Seen many people have horrible outcomes from having them and not checking ubolts/snapping a leaf center pin. And with an anti-wrap bar it shouldn't be a problem as always. Thoughts guys? I know the pros/cons associated with blocks, and I always use cast iron, not aluminum. I'm also aware of if I made a 2" drop for the shackle mound, it would only met 1" of lift. Other thoughts? Ideas? Suggestion questions? Chime on in!
P
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Just to follow up with that... its hard for me to compare lift or whatever with most rigs and I went full bore from stock to 3 link/63s on 40s if you take what I mean.
So the best I can figure is this...
Frame below rear most body mount sits at 30 1/4" on 40s
Center of hub is somewhere around 17 1/2" from floor currently (I'm aired down a little)
I have 15" between top of axle tube and bottom of frame in the rear
~29.5" from center of hub to top of wheel arch, less fender flares
Belly is 27"
6" shackles eye to eye, angle plays into ride height as well
Leaf pack is 3" thick
5" shock shaft so ~5" uptravel
So the best I can figure is this...
Frame below rear most body mount sits at 30 1/4" on 40s
Center of hub is somewhere around 17 1/2" from floor currently (I'm aired down a little)
I have 15" between top of axle tube and bottom of frame in the rear
~29.5" from center of hub to top of wheel arch, less fender flares
Belly is 27"
6" shackles eye to eye, angle plays into ride height as well
Leaf pack is 3" thick
5" shock shaft so ~5" uptravel
Last edited:
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Honestly you might end up needing to french the hangers. Where you might fight this some is up travel vs ride height and thats really where I think having links and coils would be an advantage. I'd rather sit lower but I want the up travel and I can't really do much to maintain the same uptravel and drop my ride height.
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
haven't been on in a while and just saw this. i have a 14bolt and basically stock drive shaft and it all clears the stock gas tank. it even cleared when i first did the swap and only had about 2.5in of lift.
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
Nice. Never seen this until now. How do the 40s stuff in the rear?Just in front of body mounts
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
I can't find a picture but no rubbing and I did no trimming.
- Thread starter
- #259
Finally picked up some springs this week. Slowly coming together...
I need to pick up new bushings (slider pad thingamajigs) as the ones on here are pretty rough. Then I need some weld washers for the other ideas I got going, and then the cutting can commence!
I need to pick up new bushings (slider pad thingamajigs) as the ones on here are pretty rough. Then I need some weld washers for the other ideas I got going, and then the cutting can commence!
- Thread starter
- #260
So... Making some progress. With my leg being an anchor and keeping me from working 8+hrs a day, and the weekly heat waves we've had in CA are slowing down my work ability far too much. Here's some recent stuff...
Rear end out.
Removing links and dropping the tank
All brackets cut off the housing
lower link brackets and panhard bracket removed, tank removed.
And how she sits as of this afternoon
The spring and shackle hangers are tacked in place so I could hang the springs. Tomorrow I will do some heavier tacks (I only have a 110 might welder), build a cradle support to lift the housing evenly (offset pumpkin(PITA)), and then be able to put the weight on the springs so I can set the pinion angle +1°. I also need to set the side to side location on the perches as this last image was just to get the housing under the rig and I was done for the day, so that's why the side to side position is not even/mismatched. So far everything is going smoothly, the link brackets we're a big pain to cut out, the panhard was easy, and I'm leaving the upper link mounts for now which I'll remove them when it's all ready for final assembly. The metal shavings from the grinder and spatter from the torch we're getting to me, I needed a break. I put a decent amount of weight on the springs with a floor jack and the shackle angle is pretty good, around 20-25° not fully lifted up. Since the center section is offset I didn't want to load it too much, as well as only tacked in, I avoided any problems. It was rad to see the "creeper joints" starting to work (if you didn't know, the shackle hangers have a Johnny Joint built in that helps the spring/shackle pivot with articulation). And the angle at hanging is -10° from vertical, so with weight and at full droop they should hit 30° or so which is close to their limit for the geometry. Yeah, I'm liking it so far. I'll try and take more pictures as the steps go by, the last thing I'm thinking about when I can't see from the sweat in my eyes is pulling out my phone for photo op's. I apologise for not being more thorough as I'd like to be, again my leg is my ultimate anchor just dragging me down. I got a bunch done today, and tomorrow actually I'm going to Tahoe to beat the heat (104° Sat/105° Sun). I'll b back at it Sunday morning bright n early. Cheers!
Rear end out.
Removing links and dropping the tank
All brackets cut off the housing
lower link brackets and panhard bracket removed, tank removed.
And how she sits as of this afternoon
The spring and shackle hangers are tacked in place so I could hang the springs. Tomorrow I will do some heavier tacks (I only have a 110 might welder), build a cradle support to lift the housing evenly (offset pumpkin(PITA)), and then be able to put the weight on the springs so I can set the pinion angle +1°. I also need to set the side to side location on the perches as this last image was just to get the housing under the rig and I was done for the day, so that's why the side to side position is not even/mismatched. So far everything is going smoothly, the link brackets we're a big pain to cut out, the panhard was easy, and I'm leaving the upper link mounts for now which I'll remove them when it's all ready for final assembly. The metal shavings from the grinder and spatter from the torch we're getting to me, I needed a break. I put a decent amount of weight on the springs with a floor jack and the shackle angle is pretty good, around 20-25° not fully lifted up. Since the center section is offset I didn't want to load it too much, as well as only tacked in, I avoided any problems. It was rad to see the "creeper joints" starting to work (if you didn't know, the shackle hangers have a Johnny Joint built in that helps the spring/shackle pivot with articulation). And the angle at hanging is -10° from vertical, so with weight and at full droop they should hit 30° or so which is close to their limit for the geometry. Yeah, I'm liking it so far. I'll try and take more pictures as the steps go by, the last thing I'm thinking about when I can't see from the sweat in my eyes is pulling out my phone for photo op's. I apologise for not being more thorough as I'd like to be, again my leg is my ultimate anchor just dragging me down. I got a bunch done today, and tomorrow actually I'm going to Tahoe to beat the heat (104° Sat/105° Sun). I'll b back at it Sunday morning bright n early. Cheers!
