Builds Phildoh build thread (1 Viewer)

[Phildoh]

1" rear spacers going in soon, and I'm going to have to smooth the wheelwell lip, they're chewing up my tires pretty good, or bad rather.

Yes, that's the pipe off my Harley as the exhaust tip.

 

[AMMO]

Can you post some pics of your down pipe back through the cats.

Thanks man, coming along nicely

All the local guys should plan a small meet n greet / trail run sometime soon here now that the weather is cooling off.

-A

 

[jcardona1]

Can you post some pics of your down pipe back through the cats.

Thanks man, coming along nicely

All the local guys should plan a small meet n greet / trail run sometime soon here now that the weather is cooling off.

-A

Slick Rock this weekend!

 

[Phildoh]

I feel a little less naked now.

 

[Phildoh]

In my best Stewie voice "Good Morning SEXY!" I'll try and get to these in the next few weeks, along with the R&P's

 

[Phildoh]

@AMMO not the best but here's a few. I'm eventually going tonroute the pipe through the frame rail. But, not for a while.

 

[Phildoh]

86'd the shaky rear cross member for some 2x4 .250 tube, .250 plate gussets. 1x3x6 flat plate, countersunk into the crossmember, welded, then entire thing welded into place. i.e. inside and out, no worries of them ever breaking free!

Did some rear pads as well, and fronts tomorrow. Ordered a Toyota, new, power steering pump since the Autozone one I have won't shut up. First time I've had a problem with an Autozone part. And I have a question for anyone with 100 series pads, does that involve a caliper swap as well, and rotors? I compared the pads side by side and by the look of it, its a big job based on pad size/shape. Any help appreciated!

And if you've read my thread, then you won't question the Vance and Hines pipe for the exhaust tip (off the Harley). Sounds pretty good too! Tomorrow is front pads, and maybe put the c.b. in and get it going, and the PA speaker too.

 

[grizzlygibbs]

No other upgrade other than the pads. Just throw them in, without the anti-squeak shims. The edge does run slightly off the rotor. If the rotor is new it may be a tight fit to squeeze caliper with pads back on rotor. Maybe you can mount caliper first, then try to add the pads after its bolted up?

 

[Phildoh]

Good to know, thanks man! Is it p

No other upgrade other than the pads. Just throw them in, without the anti-squeak shims. The edge does run slightly off the rotor. If the rotor is new it may be a tight fit to squeeze caliper with pads back on rotor. Maybe you can mount caliper first, then try to add the pads after its bolted up?

oSsible to upgrade the rotors and calipers as well, to the 100 series?

 

[grizzlygibbs]

I do not believe so, but I really have no idea. Your lug pattern will switch to 5 lug I believe. And not sure if the calipers will mount to our knucks. I know our front calipers are pretty beefy.

 

[Phildoh]

Thanks @grizzlygibbs , forgot about the 5lug! Gonna research it more.

Slee sliders showed up right before my last visit to the hospital. Well built, hardware and instructions look pretty good. With as much stuff I've ordered from @sleeoffroad , its all top notch, well packaged, and overall I'm a highly satisfied customer! I wonder what the fat deal is when you've given them 10k?!?! Been home from the hospital a day now, kind of weak, but I'm gonna try and get them installed this week. Everything is strenuous at the moment. Pics to follow.

 

[Phildoh]

Just saw an update on that AOE problem people have been having, maybe @sleeoffroad can take a picture of their bumper right before its shipped and send it to him as a reference. Same with the slider I received. Very high attention to detail with properly securing the items to a pallet, with foam inserts, cardboard, foam wrapping, and those commercial straps with high tension. There was a tiny scratch on the frame mount end that I'm ok with, I'm not that guy that sends 130+lbs of freight back for a scratch a half inch long and complains its not perfect. Otherwise, I highly recommend these guys if you've not heard of them.

 

[Phildoh]

Driver side slider on. Got a good buddy coming to help with the passenger side, hope the cats/pipe aren't an issue since I don't have the stock ones!

 

[dogfishlake]

I've been looking at the bigger brake options too, and pretty much, there aren't any-yet. The 100 series pads are about it. Also lots of opinions on rotors. I did powerstop slotted and EBC pads, big difference, but my oem rotors were pretty ratty so anything would be better. @Golgo13 was looking into Tundra calipers, but don't know what he's found.
Great truck and build, wish I lived closer to the playland you guys have. You are one tough dude after what you've been through.

 

[Phildoh]

I've been looking at the bigger brake options too, and pretty much, there aren't any-yet. The 100 series pads are about it. Also lots of opinions on rotors. I did powerstop slotted and EBC pads, big difference, but my oem rotors were pretty ratty so anything would be better. @Golgo13 was looking into Tundra calipers, but don't know what he's found.
Great truck and build, wish I lived closer to the playland you guys have. You are one tough dude after what you've been through.

Thanks! It's been a rough year to say the least. Seems like every time I seem to be getting better they throw me back in the hospital for another week. So the work on the truck is in baby steps again asci was in the hospital for three days last week. It's truly a test on the human body, brain especially. The mental roller coaster ride has been something that I never imagined. Thanks for the positive encouragement!
Back to brakes, has anyone looked into swapping the calipers from a 100 to an 80? I'm sure someone has at some point somewhere!

 

[Golgo13]

I looked into the calipers; there is no good way to get them to fit and there are no brake discs available that wouldn't require making a change to the hubs unless you go the route @scottryana is going with his Street Cruiser. He might have some idea how to fit something bigger.
Also, I got a lot of push back because "our rigs stop just fine." In stock form, sure they do. But how many stock rigs are there? Most people are running bigger tires and want to tow 10,000lbs trailers in the mountains. I figured at that point it wasn't worth digging any deeper except to satisfy my own curiosity. It would cost a lot more than anyone would be willing to pay anyway. My solution would have been custom machined hubs and possibly knuckles to allow LC200/Tundra brakes to fit. I don't see a problem with more brake force, stronger knuckles and newer wheels.

 

[AMMO]

I looked into the calipers; there is no good way to get them to fit and there are no brake discs available that wouldn't require making a change to the hubs unless you go the route @scottryana is going with his Street Cruiser. He might have some idea how to fit something bigger.
Also, I got a lot of push back because "our rigs stop just fine." In stock form, sure they do. But how many stock rigs are there? Most people are running bigger tires and want to tow 10,000lbs trailers in the mountains. I figured at that point it wasn't worth digging any deeper except to satisfy my own curiosity. It would cost a lot more than anyone would be willing to pay anyway. My solution would have been custom machined hubs and possibly knuckles to allow LC200/Tundra brakes to fit. I don't see a problem with more brake force, stronger knuckles and newer wheels.

At that point it become moot... That cost would far exceed moving to 1 tons...

-A

 

[scottryana]

My method is going to be fairly expensive even after I do the R/D. It will be much less than most big brake kits that are $3-4K but not by a lot. Part of it is just the sheer size of the pieces. The raw aluminum alone for the 2 hats is $300.

GT-R Rotors 380mmx34mm - $1200
Aluminum for hats - $300
Machining - $400-500
Spacer and machining - $400-500
Various hardware - $50

Total - roughly $2550

But the size and mass should be about 30% more than stock.

 

[warezdog]

ditching the ABS and LSPV and going to 100 pads made a hell of diff for me and pretty sure it's saved me, well the car in front of me, a couple times already.

 

[AMMO]

My method is going to be fairly expensive even after I do the R/D. It will be much less than most big brake kits that are $3-4K but not by a lot. Part of it is just the sheer size of the pieces. The raw aluminum alone for the 2 hats is $300.

GT-R Rotors 380mmx34mm - $1200
Aluminum for hats - $300
Machining - $400-500
Spacer and machining - $400-500
Various hardware - $50

Total - roughly $2550

But the size and mass should be about 30% more than stock.

Totally not trying to discourage ingenuity, and I'm all for keeping things Toyota...

But seems like allot of work when couldn't you could pick up a 9" with Wilwoods for far less and "upgrade" open for debate... The whole axel while your at it.

All that said I'd love to see what you come up with!

Do It!

-A